FD No 2! - K-Bikes.com - Excellence in Motion
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post #1 of 17 (permalink) Old Sep 22nd, 2009, 5:56 am Thread Starter
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FD No 2!

25,000klm or 15,000 miles and im currently having my second FD replaced.
The first one presented with about an inch of lateral movement at the back wheel when I was about 1300 miles from home and having only done 6,000 miles.
Last Saturday I was giving her a wash and did my normal tyre inspection while I was working her over with the chamois and got a sick feeling in the guts when I gave the back wheel a spin and heard an awful rumble.
Its quite amazing how conditioned one can become to failures on these bikes. When my last one failed and stranded me while on holidays i was outraged by the shoulder shrugging attitude of the dealer that repaired her.
This time I am actually finding positives in the fact that it didnt strand me and that I discovered it 4 weeks before my extended warranty expires.
I was actually joking with my local dealer yesterday that perhaps BMW could make FD's a service item.
Here in OZ service intervals are every 10,000klms. My first one failed at 9,800ks or 1st service and this one at 24,600klms not far from the second service.
If it wasnt so fuc#&n serious it would be funny

P.S. yes the oil was changed 1000klms after it was fitted.

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post #2 of 17 (permalink) Old Sep 22nd, 2009, 6:27 am
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Hey Andrew, get an independent BMW place to give your bike the once over prior to the warranty expiration, and take any concerns back to the dealership for warranty support.
I learnt this little trick after my new VW van needed a rego change from ACT to QLD. The independent roadworthy identified a number of minor issues and a major leak that I knew nothing of, and the VW dealership had to honour all the issues.

Best wishes mate.

Ken

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AUSTRALIA

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post #3 of 17 (permalink) Old Sep 22nd, 2009, 6:31 am
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Just curious, but have they ever told you what actually fails?

When you rotated the wheel this time, did it feel loose or just rumble? First thoughts are always the wheel shaft bearing, but it gets more sinister if the pinion shaft can somehow work loose.

I agree it is not funny. At speeds, a rear drive lockup can spill you all over the road.



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post #4 of 17 (permalink) Old Sep 22nd, 2009, 6:40 am Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by baytown
Hey Andrew, get an independent BMW place to give your bike the once over prior to the warranty expiration, and take any concerns back to the dealership for warranty support.
I learnt this little trick after my new VW van needed a rego change from ACT to QLD. The independent roadworthy identified a number of minor issues and a major leak that I knew nothing of, and the VW dealership had to honour all the issues.

Best wishes mate.

Ken
Cheers Ken, good idea. Problem is I doubt that I will get her back much before it expires if at all. As usual nil stock in OZ, coming from the fatherland.

Black stuff down, Shiny side up!______________________________
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07 K1200GT R.I.P.
86 K100RS Sold
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07 Softail Heritage Sold
86 K100RS Sold
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post #5 of 17 (permalink) Old Sep 22nd, 2009, 6:43 am Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by voxmagna
Just curious, but have they ever told you what actually fails?

When you rotated the wheel this time, did it feel loose or just rumble? First thoughts are always the wheel shaft bearing, but it gets more sinister if the pinion shaft can somehow work loose.

I agree it is not funny. At speeds, a rear drive lockup can spill you all over the road.
Hey Vox. no loosenes this time. None.
Just a very grumbly bearing.
This time and last time no oil leaking at all.

Black stuff down, Shiny side up!______________________________
10 R1200RTSE
02 R1100S
07 K1200GT R.I.P.
86 K100RS Sold
07 R1200GSA Sold
07 Softail Heritage Sold
86 K100RS Sold
82 R100RS Sold
82 Suzi GSX1100 Sold
75 Honda 750/4 Sold
74 Yamaha XS650 Sold
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post #6 of 17 (permalink) Old Sep 22nd, 2009, 8:25 am
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Any chance you could get to see the insides of it before they give it back to Germany? Might lead to a heads up on what part actually failed like chromium coming off a ball and locking the race causing the cage rivets to split.

Around March I need to drain mine again and send the oil into Blackstone since the oil had an abnormal amount of chromium in it pointing to the damn ball bearing wearing off their coating. Not happy about the report, but at least they gave me a warning of what is going on.

A little rim wiggle goes a long way in sensing an impending failure.


Mack
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post #7 of 17 (permalink) Old Sep 22nd, 2009, 9:35 am
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Man that sucks. Too bad it happened again but at least you weren't stranded this time. It's amazing to me that they haven't figured this situation out yet. Maybe a class action law suite, but some one would have to initiate it. Just seems all too common. And now on your second one. I give you credit for sticking with it. You guys that have been through multiples. I would have sold the bike after the second one.

Guess I'm running on pure luck as I'm 40k plus and all is well on the original. Reading about these on a regular basis though make me paranoid as hell. Going to be interesting to see if the 13's fair as well as the 12's. Time will tell.

You know just as an after though I went back and looked at the final drive poll here. It would be real interesting to do another, or modify the existing one to include the 09's /13's and later and also add a mileage indicator. Not sure it can be done with a poll though.

So Mr. Meese or Grif....is that possible?

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post #8 of 17 (permalink) Old Sep 22nd, 2009, 1:57 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GMack
SNIP...
Around March I need to drain mine again and send the oil into Blackstone since the oil had an abnormal amount of chromium in it pointing to the damn ball bearing wearing off their coating. Not happy about the report, but at least they gave me a warning of what is going on.

A little rim wiggle goes a long way in sensing an impending failure.


Mack
Mack,
Was this the first analysis after installation? If so - it might be final "polishing" of the surfaces post manufacturing process.
Most ball bearings and races are made of a steel with a high chrome content and are not chrome coated. Was there a fairly high iron and nickel content as well in the sample?
If the trend continues that would indicate wear of either the ball and/or race and not the stamped cage as that is typically plain steel or brass.
Regards,
Bill

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post #9 of 17 (permalink) Old Sep 22nd, 2009, 2:37 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WMD
Mack,
Was this the first analysis after installation? If so - it might be final "polishing" of the surfaces post manufacturing process.
Most ball bearings and races are made of a steel with a high chrome content and are not chrome coated. Was there a fairly high iron and nickel content as well in the sample?
If the trend continues that would indicate wear of either the ball and/or race and not the stamped cage as that is typically plain steel or brass.
Regards,
Bill
It was the second or third out before I sent a sample in. Their first "Never needs to be changed stuff" came out around 1000 miles and was all gray with moly paste which I guess was their "magic mileage tonic" then.

It was about 6 months later when I changed it again (I usually do it annually along with the oil and maybe a tire switch since it's easy to do then) that I sent both engine and final oil in for analysis. Engine came back with minimal break-in stuff remaining in the oil and said I could stretch the interval to maybe 7000 miles (Amsoil was in it). The final's was a red flag to them and they want another sample soon so I'm waiting until I get ready to toss on some rear tire and later winter maybe. There were other high contents, but the chromium was the highest and maybe something else too. Can't recall offhand.

Aside, someone mentioned today that the latest BMW MON (or whatever it's called) has an article about the BMW engines now being made in China too. He didn't say if it was the boxer or the K or Rotax though. Anyone see that article? Sort of bugs me as I just had a bad experience with some Chinese rubber at work that only lasted 6 months and is now split.


Mack
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post #10 of 17 (permalink) Old Sep 23rd, 2009, 6:18 pm
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According to Wikipedia the smaller G-series engines are made there:

The 450 cc engines are manufactured by Kymco in Taiwan.
The 650 cc engines are manufactured by Loncin Holdings, Ltd in China.
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