Centech AP1 and Touratech TPS 15 install question - K-Bikes.com - Excellence in Motion
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old Sep 30th, 2009, 12:03 am Thread Starter
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Centech AP1 and Touratech TPS 15 install question

Here's where I'm at with my add-on project. I've got the Stebel Horn and Motolights with the respective relays installed but I need to complete the wiring for the power supply. I have a Touratech TPS 15 that I want to use to power the on/off switch side of the relays and a Centech AP1 with 70 amp relay that will be the high 20 amp drawing power source for the horn, Motolights, heated vests and other high amp hungry items.

The question is this, the bike's max accessory power load is 8 amps, should I connect the TPS 15 to the accessory power source and use it as the power switch for the Centech 70 amp relay or should I connect the 70 amp relay to the switched accessory wire and have the Centech power the TPS 15? Either way will work but I only want one relay activated through the ignition accessory power source to turn on both TPS 15 and AP1 devices to achieve the lowest power draw on the Canbus system.

Thanks for the help.

John
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old Sep 30th, 2009, 9:52 am
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I'm sure you will get a lot of advice from your post, but you should know that with the Centech and relay, the current for your high amp accessories (Heated clothes, big lights, etc) is drawn directly from the battery (bypassing the canbus completely and eliminating any current limitations except for the relay and Centech itself), controlled by the relay which can be switched on from the BMW stock "accessory Plug" or other switched source. You can run small amp accessories (GPS, radar) directly from the BMW "Accessory Plug", as their draw is small. Hope that gets you started, others will surely add to this....

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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old Sep 30th, 2009, 10:27 am Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lhendrick
I'm sure you will get a lot of advice from your post, but you should know that with the Centech and relay, the current for your high amp accessories (Heated clothes, big lights, etc) is drawn directly from the battery (bypassing the canbus completely and eliminating any current limitations except for the relay and Centech itself), controlled by the relay which can be switched on from the BMW stock "accessory Plug" or other switched source. You can run small amp accessories (GPS, radar) directly from the BMW "Accessory Plug", as their draw is small. Hope that gets you started, others will surely add to this....
Thanks lhendrick. My goal is get a secondary wiring and fuse block system installed cleanly and correctly so I won't have to fool with this again and then adding or removing extra electrics becomes much easier. I know some of the other late model makes of the Asian made variety have similar power source problems and the work around has been the combined use of a Centech AP1 and Touratech TPS 15. Other than switching on and off the secondary power supply through the Canbus accessory connection, I want to completely isolate the Canbus. In fact, I'm still looking for a spot for the AP1 that may allow access to the fuses without removing an entire body panel. I'm hoping someone on this forum has done this on a GT so I can learn from their experience and not entirely reinvent the wheel.

John
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old Sep 30th, 2009, 1:26 pm
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John - i have my Centech mounted on top of the battery under the battery cover with only two screws to remove.



I also have the relay control of the centech tapped into the side marker light in the front headlight assembly - what this means is that there is no "on" time after you shut off the bike.


This pictures shows you where I mounted the relay


The power is on as soon as you turn the key and off and soon as you shut off the key

I think the use of the TPS is redundant since you have the centech, but what you can do is hook up the power leads from the TPS 15 to the main IN of the Centech which is controlled by the relay, so that when the relay of the centech activates it will provide power to both fuse panels simultaneously.

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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old Sep 30th, 2009, 2:05 pm
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+1 to the above, the Centech with a relay tied to a trigger wire is all that is needed in this application to isolate from the canbus.

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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old Sep 30th, 2009, 6:52 pm Thread Starter
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Thanks for the responses and thanks Semper Fi for posting the pictures. Great shots of your Centech install. I now know how I'll set up my system so I'll post the results soon. I am a little surprised at the difference in the size and position of the ABS vs. the servo assistant ABS units. This really affects the available space for extras. Of course when BMW designed the GT, it was perfection reincarnate. I mean what else could anyone possibly want or need to add to an otherwise perfect machine?

And remember, it's always easier and quicker to cut wires the exact length the first time than it is to repair them when you discover you made a mistake! Time to fire up the soldering gun......
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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old Oct 1st, 2009, 5:47 am
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John - you're welcome

I found some more pictures detailing the connection of the relay trigger to the bike harness.

I stripped the insulation back in the middle of the wire and then soldered the control wire for the relay onto it - then covered everything back up with the original tape.



This one shows how I secured the wire harness back onto the body of the headlight frame assembly,


and due to being anal retentive I also added a little insurance (of wire wrap)

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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old Oct 1st, 2009, 8:49 am
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I put a Touratech TP15 in the same place and used the accessory socket to trigger the relay.
And as stated, it's instant on and 60 ish seconds off after ignition off.
Reading the forum, someone mentioned that the blue/green wire on the 3-wire GPS header (right next ot the battery) was instant on/off.

Just thought this might be easier for access if it works, a quick check with a Meter would confirm this.
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old Oct 1st, 2009, 12:21 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tuco
Reading the forum, someone mentioned that the blue/green wire on the 3-wire GPS header (right next ot the battery) was instant on/off.
Not really. The Blue/Green wire on the GPS accessory plug is a speed pulse wire. It gives a square wave signal that is proportional to the current speed of the bike. Most meters won't catch this distinction, so it just looks like an on/off DC signal that gives more voltage when the bike is moving. But it isn't a proper signal to use for triggering a relay.

You're better off using the Red/White wire from the GPS plug that is On with the key and Off ~60 seconds after the key. Or if you want Off with the key, use either the extra power socket on the left side of the bike, or the parking light up near the headlight (for which there is a plug & play harness available). Some guys have used the tail light as a relay trigger (for fuse blocks under the seat), but this is also a pulsed DC signal (to make the rear running lights) which only goes to full 12V brightness when the brakes are applied.

Or, if you want On when the engine starts (as opposed to when the key is turned on) then you can trigger off the Low Beam light, although this does require splicing in to the existing wiring.

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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old Oct 3rd, 2009, 4:16 pm
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Touratach TPS 15

This is such a helpful thread.

On my 06 K12GT My GPS is wired into the built in canbus connector....3 numbered yellow wires and a connector in front of the battery.

I am installing a Touratech bus with built in relay to power my radar detector. Did I understand you correctly that if I want switched power to this bus I can run the third wire out of the bus and tap it into the red/white wire that is one of three wires that powers the GPS? If this can safely be done that makes the install simple enough.

Thanks for your help.
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