OK, Xenon lights, but tradeoff: no fuel gauge?? - K-Bikes.com - Excellence in Motion
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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old Oct 2nd, 2009, 9:34 pm Thread Starter
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OK, Xenon lights, but tradeoff: no fuel gauge??

Just installed a Xenon light kit and it works fine. I roughly followed the instructions in the HOW so thanks to I think it's Grif for the instructions.

BUT I took it out for a test ride, and guess what? No fuel gauge, shows zip and of course the blinking triangle and all that good stuff. Tank is full. IIRC I was showing a full tank when I did the quick test before buttoning up everything.

One thing I did a bit differently is I had the cluster off the bike, so my trip meter went to zero and the time needs to be reset. I did drive the bike a few miles so if the cluster thought I had an empty tank when I did the work, it surely had time to figure out the tank is full now, I know it sometimes takes a few minutes for the gauge to go up to full after refueling.

Everything else on the cluster seems to be working just fine.

Any tips?

Gilly

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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old Oct 3rd, 2009, 6:55 am Thread Starter
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Bump

Anyone??? Geez I'm dyin' here guys.
Am planning on just taking it apart again, pulling the cluster, making sure I didn't bend a pin or something stupid like that. Anyone know of any other connectors for the fuel sender? Don't know what I could have done to the fuel gauge system, it's worked fine for me, over 6K on the bike.
Weather was probably too wet last night on the test drive to appreciate the Xenon light, was kind of drizzly and the roads were wet.
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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old Oct 3rd, 2009, 8:00 am
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Well, after checking all your connections near where you were working, I'd dig down to the fuel sending unit plug at the front of the tank and short it out to see if that makes the gauge show full. Maybe it's just a coincidence that the gauge died when you installed the lights. At 39k mi, my fuel gauge suddenly started showing empty too, but I hadn't done anything on the bike. The mechanic told me he's replaced a lot of them.

Last edited by emzed; Oct 3rd, 2009 at 8:02 am. Reason: clarity
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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old Oct 3rd, 2009, 8:30 am Thread Starter
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Am about ready to start taking it back apart. Can you describe the location of that plug better, number of wires, color of wires if there are only a few?
Only thing that would come to mind is if I damaged a pin in the cluster.

Gilly

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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old Oct 3rd, 2009, 9:22 am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GillyWI
Am about ready to start taking it back apart. Can you describe the location of that plug better, number of wires, color of wires if there are only a few?
Only thing that would come to mind is if I damaged a pin in the cluster.

Gilly
The fuel sender plug is in the center front of the fuel tank immediately behind the battery.

Remove the seats and most of the Tupperware, then the 3 fuel tank covers, first the sides (LeftTankCover.jpg, RightTankCover.jpg), then the center (CenterTankCover.jpg).

Detached the fuel tank from the frame at its four fasteners, 1 and 3 in FuelTankAttachment.jpg.

Slide the tank back a few inches and look down between the fuel tank and the battery. The plug is 1 in FuelSendingUnitPlug.jpg.

Iím afraid I canít help you with the wire colors or pin functions because I didnít have the presence of mind at the time to short the leads myself (I just checked to make sure it was fully plugged in). Maybe youíll be lucky and thereíre only two pins.
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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old Oct 3rd, 2009, 9:46 am Thread Starter
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I got it apart. The pins on the cluster are fine. Can't believe there are only 5 wires going in to the cluster, must be mostly on CAN.
It was easy enough to change back to the halogen bulb. I did that as a test and drove it a mile and a half or so and still the same.
At this point I'll let the dealer have a crack at it, assuming nothing changes in the short term. It's still under warranty, I'll let them have all the fun.

Gilly

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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old Oct 3rd, 2009, 10:36 am
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My approach is to return everything to its original state and see if I still have the problem. I installed a HID kit 45K miles ago and haven't had any issues.

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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old Oct 3rd, 2009, 11:31 am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GillyWI
I did that as a test and drove it a mile and a half or so and still the same.
Try taking it for a longer ride. When I fill my main tank from the aux fuel cell, it can take 10-15 minutes for the fuel gauge to register the increase in fuel.

Ken
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Some people see the gas tank as half empty. Some see it as half full. All I care is that I know where the next tankful is coming from...
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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old Oct 3rd, 2009, 12:00 pm
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The wires from the HID ballast or ignitor to the lamp carry very high voltages and must not be run alongside, tywrapped in a loom bundle, or left flopping about to touch other wires. They need to be routed and tied securely away from other bike wiring. Treat HID wiring with respect like HT cables.

This particularly applies close to sensitive instrumentation and just about every other wiring on the bike that has electronic chips connected to it.

I wouldn't take it back for a warranty fix with an aftermarket HID kit in there.



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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old Oct 3rd, 2009, 1:33 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by voxmagna
The wires from the HID ballast or ignitor to the lamp carry very high voltages and must not be run alongside, tywrapped in a loom bundle, or left flopping about to touch other wires. They need to be routed and tied securely away from other bike wiring. Treat HID wiring with respect like HT cables.

This particularly applies close to sensitive instrumentation and just about every other wiring on the bike that has electronic chips connected to it.

I wouldn't take it back for a warranty fix with an aftermarket HID kit in there.
Good advice!

... and it's why it could be important if you are still within the 3-year warranty (U.S.) to let the dealer do it, even if it costs you $80. I've had my share of issues with the 2006, but anytime I say, "The dealer in xxx installed it so if you have any matters or issues with the thing, call them." Pretty much shuts them up every time - unless it gets so nasty they say, "Take it back to them and let them fix it as they screwed it up royally" which I've done at a cost of several hundred miles too.

Some dealers will try and "Up-sell the service hourly rate on 'Additional equipment adds' that causes them extra 'thinking' work." One in northern CA is nearly $120/hr. now on for add-on stuff over their base 'stocker-bike' rate. Look at their rate-boards carefully or be prepared for the shock later.

I loved the thread on the "BMW Navigator IV (?) that works and doesn't kill the battery, but something else like a Garmin 660 could kill it" thread. So if I use their BMW extension cable will that too will kill the battery on a Garmin 660? How about a decent battery for the costs of these things?

Then again, they still don't know what kind or how much oil goes into the things.


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