Centech AP1 Installation - K-Bikes.com - Excellence in Motion
 
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old Oct 4th, 2009, 7:44 pm Thread Starter
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Centech AP1 Installation

This is a follow-up to my previous thread on a Centech AP1 and Touratech TPS 15 install to power a GPS, Motolights and Stebel air horn (I also installed a BMW add-on LED tail/brake light while I was doing everything else).

Based on some advice from Meese, Semper Fi and others (thanks guys) I decided to only use the Centech and not use the TPS 15. The next thing I had to decide was where to install the Centech. My goal was to locate the Centech in such a way as to have easy access similar to a normal fuse panel. This way I can get to the fuses should I need to replace one or add or change any of my accessory items. I already had most of the skin removed for the Stebel horm and Motolight install anyway and because I was installing the LED tail/brake light I went ahead and stripped off the tail section.

Let's start with the LED tail/light. I removed the tail light assembly and drilled through the left rear corner of the plastic box for connector to pass through. I then drilled a hole through the top left corner of the fender behind the license plate mount. You'll need to cut a corresponding notch in the adjustable mud flap to clear the wiring with the flap is all the way up. My notch ended up being bigger than the one in the picture when finished. The connector is large so you want it to lay flat and not stress the wiring when everything is assembled. When the tail assembly is mounted there's a small gap between the rear of the box and tail section. Make sure that the wire coming through the corner of the box is pushed towards the center into this gap so it won't get pinched. Connect the piggy back connector to the tail/brake light bulb socket and run the factory wiring along the left side of the frame down to the accessory power socket and plug it in. Done.

Now for the Centech AP1. I decided to mount the AP1 under the rear seat. I centered the AP1 in the box for the bike alarm system and drilled a hole through the circuit board for a mounting screw. Next I used as drill bit the same diameter as drilled as the mounting holes two holes in the other end of the AP1 and drilled through the fender. I then used two screws, washers and nuts to finish mounting the AP1. I purchase the 70 amp relay with the AP1 so I mounted it to the tail section cross brace. Now for the power. I ran the battery + wire from the relay to the alternator avoiding a trip all the way to the positive side of the battery. I spliced into the LED wiring close to the relay and connected the key switch wire to the relay. The ground side of the relay goes to the AP1 (so far the only thing that is grounded through the AP1). Because of the way I mounted the AP1 to the fender I ran the ground and 12 volt positive (load) wires through the AP1 to the terminal lugs. This may be a little trickly but completely doable. The ground wire from the AP1 is connected to one of the bolts holding the left side hand rail.

I then made my own wiring harness with two 14 gauge wires for the 20 amp circuits and 5 16 gauge wires for everything else. This harness is install along side the OEM harness along the left frame to the front of the air box. After connecting the Stebel horn, GPS and Motolights, I have three extra power supply connections left for future use. All of the ground wires for the extras and the relays are attached to one of the ABS mounting plate bolts (sorry, no picture) eliminating the need to run anything of the grounds to the AP1 or battery.

After getting the bike reassembled, the last thing I did was attach the Motolight on/off switch to the left side trim panel in the fairing. Everything is hidden and looks factory installed (ok, maybe not) and the battery box doesn't have anything in it but the battery. It took a good part of two weekends to figure this out and get it finished but to me it was worth it.

The Stebel horn kicks &*^% and the extra visibility from the Motolights and LED tail/brake are well worth it.

I hope this information is of use.

John
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Last edited by John06KGT; Oct 4th, 2009 at 8:03 pm.
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old Oct 4th, 2009, 8:11 pm
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Nice job!

I also got the Patrol Brake-Light LED thing that required the BIG drilled hole in the primary fender. You might want to find some black silicone RTV stuff and seal that area up around the wire. Rain, mud, and wet tire stuff will get thrown up and mess up that area on the outside via that hole.

I might have had the need for the air-horn thing yesterday as one guy tried cutting in front of me to cross the road. Honestly, I doubt if I would have responded faster by honking than applying the brakes and swerving. His response time may have even been worse. Dunno.


Mack
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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old Oct 5th, 2009, 8:18 am Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GMack
Nice job!

I also got the Patrol Brake-Light LED thing that required the BIG drilled hole in the primary fender. You might want to find some black silicone RTV stuff and seal that area up around the wire. Rain, mud, and wet tire stuff will get thrown up and mess up that area on the outside via that hole.

Mack
Thanks Mack. I picked the corner instead of drilling down for that very reason but now that I have everything in place, I'll take your advice and seal off the opening around the wiring. Get the Stebel. You won't regret it!

John
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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old Oct 5th, 2009, 2:05 pm
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Very nice install - clean, tight - well done!

2009 KGT1300 Apple Red (mine)
2008 RT Biarritz Blue (mine - sold)
2005 ST Piedmont Red/Light Magnesium (hers)
Luis Roth
BMWMOA #143775 IBA# 35651
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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old Apr 20th, 2011, 10:57 am
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Aux brake light install

John06KGT , if you are still out there? (This thread is from 2009). How is the brake light cable holding up that is exposed to the rear tire and elements after it passes through the mud flap and before it enters the hole you drilled? I am preparing to install a similar setup on my 07' GT but I am concerned about the short piece that is exposed. The wring I am using is already insulated and I have one layer of heat shrink on it and am considering a second. There is an option to pass it along the outside of the mud flap and up into the back seat thru existing gaps around the pannier mounts. This would not look as pretty, but the cable would not be exposed to as harsh an environment as passing it through the mudflap and then up into the rear of the frame.

Any thoughts and or feedback on your experience would be appreciated.

-Dennis

13' K1600GT - Montego Blue Metallic
07' K1200GT - traded for torque monster
04' R1150RS - sold
MOA 150423 IBA 50178

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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old Apr 20th, 2011, 1:28 pm Thread Starter
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Hello Dennis,

I'm still here. I didn't ride into work today but when I get home tonight I'll take a look at the sections of exposed wiring and get back to you.

John
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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old Apr 20th, 2011, 2:08 pm
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Mine still look fine from the original install 3-4 years ago. No issues. You could slather on some of that "Liquid Electrical Tape" silicon-like stuff if it bothers you. About a $7 can from the hardware store should suffice. When I was it, I'm not at all concerned about getting the connectors wet as they have the seal built-in like most other BMW connectors. Water could get in fomr the ends, but get the above and seal it more if you like.

I'd post the pic of the underside of the fender with the wires and connector, but seems I've max'ed out my Gallery allowance so no more pics from me.


Mack
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old Apr 20th, 2011, 8:15 pm Thread Starter
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Dennis,

Just checked the wiring and it's fine. The wiring is still soft and pliable. Unlike Mack, I can still post pics. Hope this helps you.

I almost forgot, the wiring under the license plate is fine too. No debris buildup, no exposure issues. In fact the license plate does an excellent job of protecting the wiring and connector.

John
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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old Apr 21st, 2011, 8:11 pm
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Mine is holding up just fine.after almost 2 years. The parts under the license plate are very pliable and tight. I put some shower tub clear sealant in the hole in the fender. Looks like new!

Larry
Deep Blue 2009 K1300GT
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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old Apr 24th, 2011, 10:07 pm
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Thanks for the pics and status updates!

13' K1600GT - Montego Blue Metallic
07' K1200GT - traded for torque monster
04' R1150RS - sold
MOA 150423 IBA 50178

Reality is an illusion caused by a lack of speed traveled over ground
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