CANBUS Accessory socket - OK with no fuse in lead? - K-Bikes.com - Excellence in Motion
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post #1 of 34 (permalink) Old Nov 22nd, 2009, 2:38 pm Thread Starter
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CANBUS Accessory socket - OK with no fuse in lead?

Having just bought a Keis X4 heated vest and bought the extra lead ending in a car-size cigarette lighter plug, I cut this off and just fitted the BMW plug to connect directly to my accessory socket on the K12GT.

My only worry is this - I only realised after I had cut the plug off the end of the lead that there is actually a fuse inside it. There is no such fuse in the BMW plug. Will it be OK to run it through the accessory socket with no in-line fuse or should I get another lead and an adapter instead?

I don't know much about this CANBUS malarky so apologies for the newbie question - will CANBUS take care of any diffs or do I need a fuse? I've tried it already and it's working just fine, but I guess you only need the fuse when there's a problem anyway! Any advice would be very welcome. Thanks.
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post #2 of 34 (permalink) Old Nov 22nd, 2009, 3:33 pm
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Someone will correct me if I'm wrong, but I don't think there is enough Amps coming out of the Canbus Acc.Socket to run an electric vest. You would have to add another socket wired in directly to the battery for that.
Do you have the specs for your vest? Easy enough to calculate if you have the Watt rating of the vest: Watts divided by 12 = Amps .
8 Amps out of the Canbus socket is what I saw quoted somewhere else.

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Last edited by h96669; Nov 22nd, 2009 at 6:26 pm.
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post #3 of 34 (permalink) Old Nov 22nd, 2009, 3:41 pm Thread Starter
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But it seems to be working fine (lights on controller and heat coming through vest) - I read on the GS forum that they seemingly changed the software on newer models to give the socket more power.

Anyhow - what about the no fuse issue? Is it safe just running it off the CANBUS directly with no fuse?
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post #4 of 34 (permalink) Old Nov 22nd, 2009, 3:47 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by h96669
Someone will correct me if I'm wrong, but I don't think there is enough Amps coming out of the Canbus Acc.Socket to run an electric vest. You would have to add another socket wired in directly to the battery for that.

Correct the Canbus socket only allows 4AMPS to flow, if you plug in the vest you will trip the ECU into turning off the power to the socket for a while. I would find out what size fuse you cut out of the vest and replace it with an inline fuse of the same size. Next visit this site http://www.ascycles.com/detail.aspx?ID=48054 The 36 inch is plenty then you will have two outlets one live all the time the other the useless canbus outlet.

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post #5 of 34 (permalink) Old Nov 22nd, 2009, 3:51 pm
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You are quick, I was editing a bit.......! I can't fully answer your question, but my friend has a bike similar to yours and he was telling me that the Canbus will detect an overload, as in malfunction, and shut off the outlet, so .....fuses are always good, but most probably safe without because of the Canbus.

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post #6 of 34 (permalink) Old Nov 22nd, 2009, 3:54 pm
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You guys are.....quick, but check my original post I edited....!

Benelli 50cc at 14
Yamaha RD 200 at 16
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Honda CB 750 F at 18
Honda V45 Sabre at 24
BMW K100RS at 27
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post #7 of 34 (permalink) Old Nov 22nd, 2009, 4:34 pm Thread Starter
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If it won't power the vest, how come it's working??!!!!!!
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post #8 of 34 (permalink) Old Nov 22nd, 2009, 6:24 pm
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I think it may takes a few minutes for the system to shut down,especially if you are close to the Amp Rating, like by 0.1 or 0.2 A. In any case it is easy enough to see how many Amps your vest is drawing with a good Voltmeter. If you are within the specs you are OK , but I have seen 8 Amps quoted somewhere on a quick seach ,and above 4 Amps is quoted.

Quite a few factors involved here, even the state of charge of your battery may affect everything.Apparently that Canbus is very smart......

Don't you have the specs for that vest, as in a tag on it somewhere with the Watt rating?

Most vests seem to be around 60-65 watts, divided by 12 V= 5.4 Amps, That is enough to trip the Canbus if it is rated at 4 Amps, but you are good to go if it is rated at 8 amps.

I misprinted my earlier post, it is Watts divided by Volts= Amps, I'll try to edit before I get slammed......!

My bike does not have Canbus, but I added another accessory outlet to it with BIG wires direct to the battery,I did not like the size of the wiring on the factory outlet, now I can plug a charger right in it , and push or draw plenty of Amps.

BMW has an habit of changing things around without saying much about it, and often it is production date specific and even country specific so.......but I'll look around tonight and see if I can dig something out, in the meantime someone else may pipe in with the answer!

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Yamaha RD 200 at 16
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Honda CB 750 F at 18
Honda V45 Sabre at 24
BMW K100RS at 27
BMW R100GS at 34
BMW K1200RS at 53
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post #9 of 34 (permalink) Old Nov 22nd, 2009, 6:25 pm
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I never heard of the vest he's using, and not sure what the draw is. I thought the Canbus outlet was 4amps, but I could be wrong. I know it will power the BMW vest, but not the vest that most of us use being Gerbrings. I found out the hard way how useless the canbus outlet was when it would not power my cycle pump. Nothing like have a flat tire, patching it, and not being able to inflate it despite carrying a cycle pump. Regardless of the draw of the vest it's very useful having an outlet which by passes the canbus. It allows you to charge the battery without buying that lame canbus charging system which no one seems to get to work correctly.

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post #10 of 34 (permalink) Old Nov 22nd, 2009, 11:29 pm
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OK, I did a little Cut & Paste, here is what I found dated late 2008.

The original KS bikes could handle 7 amp on their accessory outlet. There was a running production change to the outlet which was found to be an inferior model. They DE-RATED the outlet via a software change to handle only 5 amps. Unfortunately for those with older versions, they now have to "suffer" from others having an inferior socket because BMW doesn't want to have to keep up with multiple versions of software.

It was a business decision. Nothing more or less. That doesn't make the CANBUS or the computer "blow". In fact, from BMWs point-of-view, this saved them $$$ in making a hardware change.

You can make an easy modification to solve this as ....pointed out. The easiest is to purchase a Powerlet iCAN Harness as this not only bypasses the CANBUS, but it gives you heavier duty wiring AND socket. You can do it on your own for less money.

BTW, at least on my 2004 KRS, the wiring for the accessory outlet AND the socket itself was also an inferior design as compared to the aftermarket ones.

I give BMW credit for even having an outlet (many of those Jap bikes mentioned do not even have one), but I am very disappointed in what I have seen in their wiring size and socket quality.


Not my words (but some of them could be) and my apologies to whoever I stole them from.......!

Benelli 50cc at 14
Yamaha RD 200 at 16
Yamaha RD 350 at 17
Honda CB 750 F at 18
Honda V45 Sabre at 24
BMW K100RS at 27
BMW R100GS at 34
BMW K1200RS at 53
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