Tank removal - K-Bikes.com - Excellence in Motion
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post #1 of 20 (permalink) Old Dec 30th, 2009, 1:43 pm Thread Starter
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Tank removal

anybody removed the tank? is it difficult? i have some wires connected to the intercom under the tank, the radar detector has some electrical noise when engine is runing, want to replace the cable with a special one with noise supressor from baehr, need to remove the tank. also have some yellowish mark on the left side of the aluminiun frame or whatever part is that on left side under the tank lever, i'm afraid it leaks gas, have to check.


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post #2 of 20 (permalink) Old Dec 31st, 2009, 4:38 pm
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Seeing no one has replied:
I might have this operation on a disc. I think it's a pretty serious job, fairing panels, and the panel on top of the tank. It gets pretty involved just doing that.
I now when they replaced the fuel strip on my GT that they didn't remove the tank, which right there means something.
I can try to find the info if you really want to try it.
An idea I had, is could you attach the new cable to the old one and using the old wire, pull it down through to where you need it? Use the old wire as a feeder wire, so to speak?
Works for replacing clutch cables w/o removing the tank (on cable operated clutch bikes).
Gilly

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post #3 of 20 (permalink) Old Dec 31st, 2009, 8:15 pm
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I had the tank off my bike to install wiring.

Removed all the tupperware (plastic panels) on the front, both sides, that is the large side panels, the tank side panels and the tank cover panel. This takes less than 30 mins. Keep all the screws pressed into a piece of paper template so you can replace them where they came from as there are several lengths.

There are two fasteners securing small brackets that secure the tank towards the rear of the tank, one on each side. Loosen fasteners and remove.

There are two fasteners passing through rubber grommets and holes in the sides of the tank towards the front of the tank. Remove the bolts and watch you don't loose the rubber bits and related washers. The tank is now free to move, but may be heavy if full.

Slide the tank back and up a bit and you will see at the front of the tank the wires for the fuel pump and sender and the fuel line and return(?) The electrical connections just pull off and cannot be installed wrong. The fuel line has a rubber washer that can be damaged, causing leaks so be careful with it. Once all these are removed from the tank, Viola! You can now remove your tank. The tank is made of unobtanium-plastic and costs over $1,000US so don't drill any holes in it or use it as an anvil.

Now you can run your wires and such, keeping them clear of the places the tank rides on. I chose to sheath the wires in some protective wrap to preclude sparks and stuff from igniting the 6 gallons of fuel nestled between my legs.

In the words of all motorcycle manuals...Replacement is the reverse of removal.

The whole task of removing will take less than an hour. Putting the plastic back on will take twice as longs as taking it off. You will have screws left over, because that's what happens, just save them for next time when you won't have enough....This just happens too and keeps the universe from exploding.

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post #4 of 20 (permalink) Old Jan 1st, 2010, 8:29 am
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Putting the plastic back on will take twice as longs as taking it off. You will have screws left over, because that's what happens, just save them for next time when you won't have enough....This just happens too and keeps the universe from exploding.


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post #5 of 20 (permalink) Old Jan 1st, 2010, 11:44 am Thread Starter
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thanks guys. happy new year! looks like a serious job. i don't think i'm in the mood to work that much. i think i will simply disconnect both ends, replace the cable, see what is happening. if ok will try to find other way hiding it without removing the tank. about the yellow mark on the frame bike is still under warrantee, will ask dealer to check. if they take the tank out will ask them to remove that cable as well hahaha.


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post #6 of 20 (permalink) Old Jan 1st, 2010, 12:02 pm
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Tank removal

Quote:
Originally Posted by Doru-in-Romania
anybody removed the tank? is it difficult? i have some wires connected to the intercom under the tank, the radar detector has some electrical noise when engine is runing, want to replace the cable with a special one with noise supressor from baehr, need to remove the tank. also have some yellowish mark on the left side of the aluminiun frame or whatever part is that on left side under the tank lever, i'm afraid it leaks gas, have to check.
I would go to the FRK website where they show removal of the tank on a K1200S. It's a little tight removing the fuel quick disconnect just be careful and don't damage the O ring I. There are four different length screws holding the fairing on, be sure to mark which one goes where. It's not a difficult job, but you need to give yourself enough time so you are not rushed and do something stupid. It took me about three hours to install the FRK on my '07 GT.
I would try to pull the new cable through using the old wires first, keep in mind that it's tight in there and depending on the size of the shielded cable that you're installing, it may not go. If that fails , I'd remove the fairing and tank.
I hope that this helps.
Happy 2010,
Wade
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post #7 of 20 (permalink) Old Jan 1st, 2010, 12:54 pm
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I gotta ask a maybe dumb question...

Why would the dealer remove your tank to run wires, especially with the noise-radiating alternator down there? I could see where they might use a rigid wire or speedometer cable, snake it, and pull the wire inside the body of the bike, but pull the tank to do it?

You can easily snake the wires along the side of the tank via a pull-wire (or an old speedometer cable) and not mess with the tank at all. Might not even need to pull the plastic other than removing the seat to snake a pull-wire.


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post #8 of 20 (permalink) Old Jan 1st, 2010, 4:36 pm
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I've run wires outside the GT's tank and under the body panels without too much trouble. I've also used a metal coat hanger or stiff wire to pull wires under the left side of the tank, which is a bit fiddly but easier than pulling the tank. I've also pulled the tank off for other reasons and run wires that way.

Any of those methods will work just find depending on your preferences and abilities.

If you do remove the tank, be aware that there isn't much slack on the fuel pump wires and hoses. You can get your hand down there to remove them, but it's a bit tight. Removing the battery helps there.

Like anything else, it's much easier the second time around when you know what you're looking at down there . . .

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post #9 of 20 (permalink) Old Jan 2nd, 2010, 2:17 am Thread Starter
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not a dumb question and even if dumb i asked the same. they said that i have too many wires and put them all together, tighten everything with straps to avoid vibration and noise while riding. i've seen the bike with tank down and all wires fixed, clean install but now a mess to work on it. i have a baehr intercom installed with wires going to zumo, 2 way radio, radar detector. i am sure it would work without removing the tank though.


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post #10 of 20 (permalink) Old Jan 3rd, 2010, 11:50 am
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I made this right after I joined here and it might help: Panel screws

I would highly recommend using a piece of cardboard with drawings and punch the screws through for easy reinstall though...
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