Silly valve check question? - K-Bikes.com - Excellence in Motion
 
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old Jan 10th, 2010, 2:42 pm Thread Starter
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Silly valve check question?

I am in the midst of a valve check on my '08 K1200GT. Turning out a lot easier than I thought, but I haven't got it back together again
My question is which cylinder is number 1?
It doesn't really matter for the valve check, but I am curious. WIth the camshaft marks lined up flush with the cylinder head surface, 1 and 4 are at TDC. So, which is which? It doesn't tell you in the RepRom.

I have done the valve check and of course all are in spec at 18k. Now I am starting to put it back together and get to try my DIY coolant vacuum fill tool. I made it from a some tubing, valves and my existing oil extraction pump to create the vacuum and got the ideas from various web sites. I will post pics when I am done.

Brian Louw
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old Jan 10th, 2010, 4:20 pm
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I would ONLY guess it's the left side. Only reason I am posting at all is the suggestion to check to see if the plug wires might be numbered??

Gilly

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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old Jan 10th, 2010, 4:28 pm Thread Starter
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50-50 chance of being right. . I would have guessed right because the cam chain is on that side, but the drive is also on that side to the clutch. There must be some numbering standard for transverse engines or is that too much to hope for.
Gilly, the plug wires are a bit different on this beast because of the coil over plug design. They are low tension connectors to the coils that are attached directly to the plugs and you would have to be pretty creative to mix them up as they are short and come out of a harness that also feeds the fuel injectors.

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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old Jan 10th, 2010, 5:16 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blouw
There must be some numbering standard for transverse engines or is that too much to hope for.
Come on now, when does BMW ever follow convention?

Quote:
Originally Posted by blouw
Gilly, the plug wires are a bit different on this beast because of the coil over plug design. They are low tension connectors to the coils that are attached directly to the plugs and you would have to be pretty creative to mix them up as they are short and come out of a harness that also feeds the fuel injectors.
And do be careful when removing the individual coils from the plugs, as they come off with a "pop" and there's not much clearance above, and the wire connectors on top are small and easily broken . . .

Although I will say that the tiny zip ties that we scrounged up have held for 30K miles or so.

Ken
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'13 Dark Graphite Metallic K16GTLD, 24K miles and counting...
'09 Magnesium Beige Metallic K13GT, 60K miles miles and counting...
'02 Mauve Metallic K12LTC, 106K miles and sold
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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old Jan 10th, 2010, 6:09 pm Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Meese
And do be careful when removing the individual coils from the plugs, as they come off with a "pop" and there's not much clearance above, and the wire connectors on top are small and easily broken . . .
Way past that, Ken, and I got them all off without breaking anything . In fact, it's all back together and I just have to do the coolant and put the tupperware back.
There is a trick to getting those wire connectors off and it is in the RepRom. You musn't bend the tabs. Don't even touch them. I used a 90 degree dental pick and pushed down and backwards on the plug itself - piece of cake. I put duct tape on the coils and gripped them with needle nose. Then I levered on the needle nose gently with large screwdriver - no pop, bang or oops . The most trouble I had was the secondary air pipe that has 3 push connectors into the valve cover. Thought I was going to break that, but it eventually came out after a stern talking to.

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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old Jan 10th, 2010, 7:28 pm
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Yeah, that was mostly a warning to others who may attempt this procedure in the future.

When Grif and I did mine, we took lots of pics and documented every step, then my camera ate all the pics.

Oh well, with another 30K on the bike since then I'm probably due again about now anyway. That, and a shock swap should make for an interesting weekend.

Ken
Pacific NorthWet
'13 Dark Graphite Metallic K16GTLD, 24K miles and counting...
'09 Magnesium Beige Metallic K13GT, 60K miles miles and counting...
'02 Mauve Metallic K12LTC, 106K miles and sold
BMWLT#145, IBA# 366, MOA# 111996, SCMA# 24032

All lower 48 states plus Alaska on the K13GT in two weeks . . .

Some people see the gas tank as half empty. Some see it as half full. All I care is that I know where the next tankful is coming from...
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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old Jan 11th, 2010, 12:08 pm Thread Starter
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Ken, Let me know if you need a hand with the shock swap, etc
I now live in AG, so not too far from you.

So looks like nobody knows the answer to my original question

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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old Nov 27th, 2011, 5:00 am
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I see this is an old post.

To identify cyl no1 it is actually described in the RepDVD.
Go to Inspection Instructions/BMW Service/Checking valve clearance.

In this procedure there is a picture of a form to fill in the values for all valves.
If you doubleclick it it is printable, and shows the position for all valves. It also describes how to identify no1.
Cyl no1 is the left cylinder in riding direction, i.e the one next to the waterpump.
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old Dec 7th, 2011, 4:53 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blouw
I am in the midst of a valve check on my '08 K1200GT. Turning out a lot easier than I thought, but I haven't got it back together again
My question is which cylinder is number 1?
It doesn't really matter for the valve check, but I am curious. WIth the camshaft marks lined up flush with the cylinder head surface, 1 and 4 are at TDC. So, which is which? It doesn't tell you in the RepRom.

I have done the valve check and of course all are in spec at 18k. Now I am starting to put it back together and get to try my DIY coolant vacuum fill tool. I made it from a some tubing, valves and my existing oil extraction pump to create the vacuum and got the ideas from various web sites. I will post pics when I am done.
Both exhaust and intake valves will be closed on the one that is actually at TDC or firing position. The other one that you thingk is in TDC will have either the intake or exhaust valves open. I cant remember which but that one is either in the exhaust position or intake position. On this one, one of the valves will be tight, you will not get a feeler gage into it.
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