Who said a valve check was hard?? - K-Bikes.com - Excellence in Motion
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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old Jan 12th, 2010, 6:47 pm Thread Starter
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Who said a valve check was hard??

Here are the pics I took when I did my first valve check over the weekend. I post them for interest only and reference for connections, etc. The last two pics are of a vacuum tool I made to fill the coolant. I used a vacuum gauge I had from the 60's and my existing oil extractor bought at Western Marine. The two valves came from Harbor Freight at $1.99 a piece on sale and the rest from HD. Black pipe is 8.00mm (5/16) fuel hose from Kragens. Worked like a charm. You need to follow the procedure in the RepRom, I connected the black hose to the overflow pipe by the radiator cap and plugged the overflow hose and another one under the bike with golf tees! Try pumping the vacuum and you will soon see which ones need plugging. That way you don't need special hose clamps or an adapter to fit the filler opening.
No, I didn't use Bug Wash to fill the radiator. That was just the container that I used. I reused the original coolant topped off with a bit of distilled water.

BTW, number 1 cylinder is on the left as you sit on the bike.


















Brian Louw
2013 K1600GT Light Grey Metallic
2011 R1200GSA

Last edited by blouw; Jan 12th, 2010 at 6:52 pm.
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old Jan 12th, 2010, 7:37 pm
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Pretty cool!
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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old Jan 12th, 2010, 9:08 pm
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Just wondering, did you have any trouble getting the plastic secondary air injection manifold out of the valve cover? Man, mine was a bear!
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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old Jan 12th, 2010, 10:23 pm Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smiller
Just wondering, did you have any trouble getting the plastic secondary air injection manifold out of the valve cover? Man, mine was a bear!
Funny you should ask that. That was the most difficult part of the whole job!! The problem is that you have to pull it straight out and no way of wiggling it to free it up. I eventually carefully used a tire iron to lever it out

Brian Louw
2013 K1600GT Light Grey Metallic
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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old Jan 12th, 2010, 11:14 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blouw
Funny you should ask that. That was the most difficult part of the whole job!! The problem is that you have to pull it straight out and no way of wiggling it to free it up. I eventually carefully used a tire iron to lever it out
Me too, everyone seems to have a difficult time with that. As you said, the worst part of the job. Guaranteed plenty of swearing, especially after you break it... DAMHIK.
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old Jan 13th, 2010, 9:00 pm
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How many miles on the bike, and did the values need adjusted?

Mike
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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old Jan 14th, 2010, 10:05 am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HillbillieBeemer
How many miles on the bike, and did the values need adjusted?
My GT has never needed an adjustment, even after regular checks up to 85K miles. With another 30K on it now, it's about time to check them again.

Note that I wouldn't skip valve checks at the lower mileages though. Although it is extremely rare, I have heard of maybe 2 or 3 bikes that did need an actual adjustment. Probably 98.5% of the Slant/4 motors do stay in spec, but I'd hate to skip the check on the other 1.5% of bikes . . .

Ken
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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old Jan 15th, 2010, 12:58 pm Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HillbillieBeemer
How many miles on the bike, and did the values need adjusted?
18k and all valves in specs.

Brian Louw
2013 K1600GT Light Grey Metallic
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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old Jan 23rd, 2010, 12:16 pm
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Oh no. I saw in one of the pics the water pump impeller. Plastic, dam in automobiles that is trouble. After a while they get brittle and break thus no pumpy.

Wayne

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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old Apr 17th, 2014, 7:51 am
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33000 miles and all valves in spec. I have 2 intake valves at .278mm but my expierence says that they get tighter with age as the valve wears into the seat. Anyone agree??
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