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post #1 of 6 (permalink) Old Mar 8th, 2010, 9:52 am Thread Starter
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Oil Check ----Thanks Everyone!

Hi All

I just wanted to say what a helpful forum this is.

A few days ago I posted about my Oil Check light on the BC for my 07 gt. Indeed as some had suggested, once the bike is at operating temp and at a stand still, it takes at least 30 seconds for the check mark to appear, replacing the ---, but it does show up. I guess the reason I asked the question in the first place is because it seemed to me that in the past when I cycled the BC at a stop light the check mark appeared almost instantly when I landed on the Oil level indicator, but I can't be sure how long I had been idling. I only have about 600 miles on the bike in the past couple of months so I am still learning about it.

I have also checked the archives and found a very helpful set of photos on DIY oil changes, which I plan to do.

I am still a bit confused on a few oil related questions. 1) With 4000 miles on my bike, should I wait longer to switch over to synthetic or would now be OK? I know the correct synthetic weight is 5w-40, but what is the forum's consensus synthetic brand to use. BMW house brand (Syntrol), Castrol, Mobil or what? I have read a few posts that suggested the transmission "clunking" on shifts will improve with synthetic. I do have a lot of "clunking" of the gears when I shift. I am also still trying to find the sweet spot in shifting. Most of my shifts at this point result in engine braking as I let out the clutch. I am trying to learn where to keep the throttle to have a smooth shift without engine braking or "speed shifting". This process gets harder as the shifts happen at higher rpms.

2) When I do finally change the oil, is it absolutely necessary to drain the tank under the drivers seat? Wouldn't this drain down when the oil plug is removed?

Last, as a proper introduction, I have attached a pic of my bike that my crotch rocket friends call a "motor home"

Thanks
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Mark

07 K1200GT Blue
82 Honda CB 900F SuperSport Silver
65 Corvette Roadster Fuel Injection Silver
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post #2 of 6 (permalink) Old Mar 8th, 2010, 10:09 am
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Looks less like a Winnebago with the top case off of it.

Oil you will get way too many opinions on, I refuse to participate in it. "It's all good". I'd change it over at you r next regular service, not before.

I don't know if this is your first BMW bike or not, but I just want to say that clunkiness in shifting is sort of a BMW hallmark, it won't disappear completely. Not only "do they all do that", but they are all "supposed to do that".

I find the shifting sweet spot to be somewhat lower RPM than normal in the lower gear ranges and higher than normal in the higher gear ranges. On UPshift. Downshift happens just fine in any normal fashion and I get more clunkiness going down rather than up. "Hard to shift" will eventually go away but it'll still clunk 100,000 miles from now.

Absolutely the tank has to be drained out, this is a dry sump oil system, that tank oil ain't going NOplace unless you drain it, either use a sucker or by pulling the clear hose off the top of the tank and letting it hang. I did it this way my first time (last year) and didn't take as long as everyone was saying, it was 10 or 15 minutes, guys make it sound like it's a 12 hour process!

Gilly

"No problem is so big or so complicated that it can't be run away from"

Dark Graphite: Making bikes faster for over 40 years.
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post #3 of 6 (permalink) Old Mar 8th, 2010, 10:16 am
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OK I will comment further on oil.
Make sure what you use is intended to be used in engines with an integral transmission like most transverse-mounted cycle engines are. I elected to use Spectro Golden. I had used in exclusively in my K75 and that worked out just fine, and it is rated for transmission use. I am a little on the cheap side though. I don't consider this oil to be bargain-basement priced, but for "my baby" I don't mind spending it once a year, which is how often the oil gets changed unless i go off the wall nuts on trips, which ain't likely to be happening any time soon for me. If I were to shell out what they get for some of the oils that have been mentioned, i would expect to get more for my money than a warm fuzzy feeling, I would expect it to last twice as long as the cheaper stuff. But I do think the oil should be changed at least once a year, so I'm not doing it, not going the expensive route.
The bike will hold up just fine without it.
Gilly

"No problem is so big or so complicated that it can't be run away from"

Dark Graphite: Making bikes faster for over 40 years.
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post #4 of 6 (permalink) Old Mar 8th, 2010, 10:39 am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GillyWI
"It's all good". I'd change it over at your next regular service, not before.
What Gilly said. Use a good quality synthetic oil and change it at the recommended intervals. Then just keep on riding.

But if you want to be a bit more specific for your new baby, then here goes.

The current BMW spec for engine oil is:
4L Motor Oil Power 1 Racing 4T 5W-40 BMW Part# 83 12 2 153 837

I don't have a current price from BMW, but I have gotten similar oil from Cycle Gear. Look for:
4L Repsol Moto Racing 4T 100% Synth SAE 10W-50 $56.99 (4 liter jug)

This meets BMW's JASO spec. Note that BMW used to recommend the 10W-50, but now recommends 5W-40. It looks like the Repsol 4T is also available in a 5W-40 weight.

I've also used Mobil1, Castrol, and whatever synthetic I could find at WalMart while on a long road trip. Changing the oil in a random parking lot isn't fun, but can be done.

And I've gone 12K between changes as well, when I just couldn't be bothered to change it out on the road. With 115K on the bike now, I've never had an oil-related problem (well, except maybe for that random clutch squawk that the Slant/4 engines are famous for.

Ken
Pacific NorthWet
'13 Dark Graphite Metallic K16GTLD, 24K miles and counting...
'09 Magnesium Beige Metallic K13GT, 60K miles miles and counting...
'02 Mauve Metallic K12LTC, 106K miles and sold
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post #5 of 6 (permalink) Old Mar 8th, 2010, 11:03 am Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GillyWI
I don't know if this is your first BMW bike or not, but I just want to say that clunkiness in shifting is sort of a BMW hallmark, it won't disappear completely. Not only "do they all do that", but they are all "supposed to do that".

Gilly
Hi Gilly,

Something inside of me wants to say SCRAMJETS when I see that photo of the jet...not sure why..

Anyway, yes, this is my first BMW bike, and first bike with any meaningful power, but I am not a stranger to BMW. Only had one daily driver in my life that wasn't a BMW and this is my 2007 Toyota Tacoma. Past rides include 1975 2002, 1985 325e, 1987 235is, 2001 M Roadster and 2002 M3, all but the 2002 bought new from the dealer. The M3 was a seriously fun car.

I have a lot to learn with the k12gt....appreciate this forum and all the advice

Thanks

Mark

07 K1200GT Blue
82 Honda CB 900F SuperSport Silver
65 Corvette Roadster Fuel Injection Silver
65 Corvette Roadster Loaded Red
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post #6 of 6 (permalink) Old Mar 8th, 2010, 5:58 pm
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What jet, do you mean where I support my claim about dk graphite being the fastest color? The last one I posted was a little geeky. Most would think it's an SR71 but it's actually an A12 (or maybe a YF12).
Gilly

"No problem is so big or so complicated that it can't be run away from"

Dark Graphite: Making bikes faster for over 40 years.
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