Shift Linkage adjustment? - K-Bikes.com - Excellence in Motion
 
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post #1 of 5 (permalink) Old Oct 11th, 2010, 2:04 pm Thread Starter
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Shift Linkage adjustment?

I recently picked up a 2008 GT. The shifting linkage I see is adjustable. Just wondering if anyone here has done that and if so what is the procedure for shortening the throw from 1st to 2nd.

I have had 4 BMW's in the past 5 years, 2 RT's an LT and now this GT. Their tranny's all clunk but the throw on this bike seems to be very long.
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post #2 of 5 (permalink) Old Oct 11th, 2010, 3:17 pm
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From memory adjustment has a negligable, if any, effect on the throw, more on the lever position. To all intents and purposes it's a parallel motion system. When adjusting note that one end (can't remember which) of the selector rod has a left hand thread. The rod has small flat faces so it can be held when tightening the locknuts. Turning the rod effectively adjusts the distance between the gear/foot shift lever and the shift lever on the input shaft. ie Large adjustments are done by moving the levers on the splines (should not be needed), fine adjustment by twisting the rod. That being said the manual says to set the distance between the inner faces of the locknuts to 147mm, and to check that it doesn't foul the side stand.
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post #3 of 5 (permalink) Old Oct 12th, 2010, 10:37 am
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If you are talking about the linkage at your foot which I assume you are.
I adjust mine every season for the different boots that I wear. I keep the distance short so I do not have to raise my toes to high to shift, I never miss a shift since I have been doing it. Before I would constantly miss first to second.
Very easy adjustments ..10 mm open end wrench. Takes a whole 1 min to do.
Kevin
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post #4 of 5 (permalink) Old Oct 12th, 2010, 11:39 am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KGK1200GT
If you are talking about the linkage at your foot which I assume you are.
I adjust mine every season for the different boots that I wear. I keep the distance short so I do not have to raise my toes to high to shift, I never miss a shift since I have been doing it. Before I would constantly miss first to second.
Very easy adjustments ..10 mm open end wrench. Takes a whole 1 min to do.
Kevin
Be careful when adjusting it low that it does not touch the kickstand lockout switch or wiring. Can cause a stalling problem when downshifting -- found this out the hard way.
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post #5 of 5 (permalink) Old Oct 16th, 2010, 4:39 pm
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The adjustment moves the lever up and down, but it doesn't change how far you must lift it or depress it for upshifts and downshifts. If you have a thick boot, you may want to raise it a bit to fit the boot underneath it for upshifts, but then you have to flex your ankle more to get on top of it for downshifts.

I keep a small 10mm wrench in my glovebox to adjust it. After I insert or remove my peg lowering kit, it usually needs a few tweaks until it feels "just right". It is so quick and easy, you can tweak it at a fuel stop, without delaying your friends.
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