buzz in my ears - K-Bikes.com - Excellence in Motion
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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old May 6th, 2011, 7:02 pm Thread Starter
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buzz in my ears

So I have a AutoCom system for both my wife's and my helmets.
Has worked fine for a few years now.
Installed a Valentine One over the winter. Had a slight buzz in the headset (alone) so I bought and installed a inline noise reducer. Simple plug in.

We go for a ride today (both plugged in) and I have the buzz which co-incides with the engine revs. Wife doesn't hear it. We stop and change plugs, me using her connection. Still I hear it. We change helmets. Now she hears it.

Its my helmet only.

So what can I do to alleviate this in only my helmet? Is it my ear-piece speaker?

Any suggestions?

Oh and be specific...I'm an idiot with electricals.
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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old May 6th, 2011, 10:08 pm
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Is the detector powered off the bike? If so, you need a ground loop isolator cable to connect it to the Autocom. Its a problem that seems to crop up with Autocoms systems when an item is plugged in and is powered off the bike, they end up with the noise. The isolator is essentially a transformer in the middle of the lead so that there isn't actually a direct connection between the two and thus the noise is cut off. I had this issue with my wifes F800ST and her iPod when it was plugged in to the charger lead.

Ed Miller,
Calgary, AB, Canada
2008 K1200GT, 2009 F800GS
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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old May 6th, 2011, 10:49 pm
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x2 on the ground loop isolator (Autocom calls them "Isolation Leads."). Goes between your Autocom and the output audio jack of your Valentine 1 Remote Audio Box (i.e. their "headphone box."). Get the one made by Autocom for your model as some have 3 or 4 conductors on the mini-plug that goes into the Autocom depending on the model. They are different. Also, the "radar" isolation units are mono which may be another issue since they change static when you change helmets since you are using stereo music. Should end the static.

One of the guys in the parts section of Sierra BMW in Sparks, NV has a boatload of info on the Autocom installations and cables as does Nicole at Cycle Specialties in Modesto, CA.

On mine, I have two isolation boxes: one mono box for the radar and GPS (has two input jacks), and another "stereo" isolator for just the music player. You could get by with the stereo isolator alone, but you have to hobble up and solder a custom lead to do it and hit the right connections from the V1 Audio box to the Autocom stereo isolator box. It's a big pain to do it without a schematic too. Maybe Autocom has the proper leads now?

That inline noise suppressor cable you installed is probably on the 12 volt power leads of the Valentine, no? If so, you ain't got it right. The isolation must go "between" the Valentine 1 and the Autocom and configured for "mono" else one channel is going to go bonk on you and maybe short back to the player. Escort makes one for their units to break the ground loop issue and they don't need the Valentine 1 audio box unit either. Much easier to install.

Too bad Autocom never installed the isolation on all of the unit's input jacks. Would make life a whole lot easier, and not so many boxes and cables too.

Mack
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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old May 7th, 2011, 11:04 am Thread Starter
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I have a PAC SNI-1/3.5 ground loop noise reducer plugged into the AutoCom and my V1 plugged into that.

I thought that was the correct fix.....

Should I get the AutoCom version instead?
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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old May 7th, 2011, 11:09 am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kbmwrs
So I have a AutoCom system for both my wife's and my helmets.
Has worked fine for a few years now.
Installed a Valentine One over the winter. Had a slight buzz in the headset (alone) so I bought and installed a inline noise reducer. Simple plug in.

We go for a ride today (both plugged in) and I have the buzz which co-incides with the engine revs. Wife doesn't hear it. We stop and change plugs, me using her connection. Still I hear it. We change helmets. Now she hears it.

Its my helmet only.

So what can I do to alleviate this in only my helmet? Is it my ear-piece speaker?

Any suggestions?

Oh and be specific...I'm an idiot with electricals.
At least is is not a bee or wasp inside your helmet! DAMHIK.
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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old May 7th, 2011, 12:46 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kbmwrs
I have a PAC SNI-1/3.5 ground loop noise reducer plugged into the AutoCom and my V1 plugged into that.

I thought that was the correct fix.....

Should I get the AutoCom version instead?
Easy answer is "YES."

Notice on your PAC you have 3 conductors on the plug. Most Autocoms use 4 (and newer 5 I think): Left, Right, Ground, Microphone. Some even have a 5th for their small "ambient noise or speed microphone" that allows for a volume increase (that's the second mike in some driver's helmet that sits in the back under the foam on their newest lineup) which also accounts for the larger DIN connector plug to the helmet on the newer units. If you put your 3 conductor plug into a 4 jack, or even 5 on the newest, you are screwing up something and you may have the outputs feeding into the Autocom shorted, or an issue in the Autocom jack itself.

As I said, you might be able to hobble up a special cord, but its easier to get the right stuff to make it play nice together. I hobbled up one once and the output of something went into one Escort detector and took out the audio output amp and killed the detector dead. I had to send it off to get fixed. Some jacks on the Autocom's are powered 'hot' on one of those 5 pins to feed their external Bluetooth receiver/transmitter units (Jack #1 on their ProAVI unit I think?). Live and learn.

I'd call the Autocom guru at Sierra BMW and tell him what you have and what you need between your V1 Audio Box and the specific model of Autocom you have. The owner at Santa Rosa BMW (had a lot of stock when I was there last) is also good as well as one mechanic at the Modesto BMW dealership in CA who Nicole (parts girl) gets info out of.

Maybe TopGear if you have the really old Autocom stuff since they no longer are the "new line" Autocom distributor. I don't know who the USA distributor is any more.


Mack
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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old May 8th, 2011, 1:50 am Thread Starter
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Thanks Mack....I ordered the part from Sierra BMW today...got the mono one....Damn I hope that's right.

Now I read your post I guess i should have got my AutoCom info and tlaked to Sierra BMW about the problem first. Oh well live and learn. If it works it works....if not I'll call them up and ask for their help.

Thanks guys.

Mike
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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old May 8th, 2011, 6:36 am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kbmwrs
Thanks Mack....I ordered the part from Sierra BMW today...got the mono one....Damn I hope that's right.

Now I read your post I guess i should have got my AutoCom info and tlaked to Sierra BMW about the problem first. Oh well live and learn. If it works it works....if not I'll call them up and ask for their help.

Thanks guys.

Mike
You'll need the stereo plug for the V1 audio adaptor.


I believe Escort is a mono set up.
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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old May 8th, 2011, 10:52 am
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Originally Posted by Bandera
You'll need the stereo plug for the V1 audio adaptor.

I believe Escort is a mono set up.
You are correct. The V1 uses the 'stereo' isolation unit. My bad. Thought it was mono as is the Escort.

Here is their isolation flow chart and leads on the 2009 and later units. Seems the same stuff will work on older units.

Autocom Isolator boxes and Leads - PDF file

On my GT, I have both the stereo dual box and one mono box. Another jack has their Bluetooth box plugged into it which doesn't work well with some Bluetooth items due to their different protocols. The BT is plugged into jack #1 on my older AVI as it is a powered jack to run the Bluetooth box so I have to be careful with that jack (i.e. it took out one Escort 9500ix.).

The S1000RR Autocom ProAVI (latest style Autocom) is different - and I'm looking at it now to make sure. The Escort Redline audio out (normally just a two conductor earphone plug) goes goes into their black 'mono' isolation box which goes out on their 4 connector plug into the Autocom unit. The weird part is that cable from the Escort Redline into their mono isolation box is a two-conductor plug into the earphone jack on the Escort, but at the other end it is 4-conductor into the 'mono' box(??), in other words it's a "2-into-4" cable. Some other special Escort weird wire Modesto BMW (Cycle Specialties) sold me.

The stereo out from the Sony Walkman (it runs on its own internal batteries so it doesn't need power from the bike and all those isolator box issues) feeds from a three wire plug into their 4 conductor plug so something is different someplace in that cable too (it's an Autocom cable I know because it has the 4 conductors on the plug into the Autocom unit or a "3-into4" cable.).

For Mike's setup, it appears he needs one of the following "3-into-4" leads (all are just length differences): a 2243 (shortest), 2244 (mid length), or a 2245 (longest).

That cable then plugs into a 2255 'stereo" isolation adapter box if he is using an additional music player too on the second input of this isolation box (it's a dual-input box) which goes into the Autocom.

What a nightmare that could easily be fixed if they put the isolation stuff into the main unit's inputs. Still, you would need their odd cable like a "2-into-4" (mono) or a "3-into-4" (stereo) lead though. Seems most leads plugging into the Autocom are 4 conductors now too from the above PDF.

Good luck Mike and sorry for the mix up. Hope it gets straightened out or maybe it will work as it is with the correct wiring plugs on the end into the Autocom.

Any consultation, I just found a dual 'stereo' isolation box sitting in my pile of Autocom rubble (and a special Zumo 550 box too that never worked too so that's why the Bluetooth is on the GT (I think?) and the Zumo feeds into another stereo box (BT is inactive on it). The 'stereo' box must be leftover from me putting the Escort into a stereo box and then buying a mono box for it in my Autocom timeline. I dunno as even the 'former' Autocom dealer at BMW Santa Cruz screwed it up when they installed it ('former' as in "We don't want to deal with Autocom hookup issues no more.") and I had no alerts at all via the Autocom the way they hooked it up, just silence. The Santa Rosa BMW owner called the company once for what was a simple hookup (and to straighten out Santa Cruz's mess) and it took 30 minutes on the phone and 3 more parts to get it to work right.

I'm still baffled as to why I have a special Autocom "2-into-4" cable for their input side on their 'mono' isolation box though. One would think 2 conductors is all that's needed for mono, but 4 leads? Must be their goofy 4-input conductor jacks as a standard item now so anything less than 4 is pot luck and why anyone using Radio Shack leads often gets into trouble with Autocom setups. You really need a Phd. for Autocom at times.


Mack
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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old May 9th, 2011, 9:16 am Thread Starter
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So I now have purchased and been sent the WRONG osolator? Damn.

I hope I can send it back. I'll call Sierra BMW this morning and see what can do.

Did I mention I'm a electrical morron???

Way too much "I had this and then if you have this' info .

I have a AutoCom. Two helmets with intercom. Two speakers for each helmet.

I installed a V1. I had a buzz when turned on. I was told to get a isolator

I bought the PAC SNI-1/3.5 ground loop noise reducer plugged into the AutoCom and my V1 plugged into that.

Now I have a buzz ONLY in MY headset.

Bought the MONO Autocom isolator. Being shipped as I type.

I should have the Stereo version. Is that correct?
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