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post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old Jun 1st, 2011, 2:28 pm Thread Starter
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Final Drive

2007 BMW K1200GT with 19,500 miles, after a short 20 mile ride I put the bike on the center stand and checked the rear wheel for any wobbles, there were none, I then placed my hand on the final drive and found it to be hot (not warm but hot), the rotor was really hot, checked to make sure there was no drag on the rotor and it turned freely. I had Blackstone check the oil at 12,000 miles (after a 2400mile change) and they indicated a higher level of iron than should be expected. I changed the oil again using Spectro GL5 at about 16,000 miles. Could this be the frist signs of a failing rear drive?
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post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old Jun 1st, 2011, 3:03 pm
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Does yours have the magnetic drain plug on it? I put one on mine and so far it's been clean and Blackstone shows little iron and chromium in the final oil (Amsoil here.). Chromium I would assume is coming from the ball bearings if they are shot. Iron could also be the ring gear wear too. Mine does get hot, but it's from the brake rotor heat working it's way to the final...I hope. There's no drag on mine from the pads freely spinning the wheel, just when I use them does it heat up.

No wobble and no leak is good. Might want to flush it out and then add some more oil though and send another sample in in 2,000 miles to spot a trend.


Mack
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post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old Jun 1st, 2011, 3:21 pm
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GMack, I know my 07 doesn't have a drain plug, so no magnetic drain plug on this guys bike, more than likely.

Thing to remeber is thatthe front and rear brakes are coupled, so even though you think the rear brakes were hardly used during the previous trip (when the FD and brakes felt warm/hot), the rear brakes were being applied every time you stopped. You can use JUST the rear brakes by using the rear bake lever, like in slippery conditions, but you can NOT use the front brakes alone, the rear brakes apply with the front.
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post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old Jun 1st, 2011, 6:51 pm
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Originally Posted by GillyWI
GMack, I know my 07 doesn't have a drain plug, so no magnetic drain plug on this guys bike, more than likely.
You're right. The drain plug I was referring to is actually the fill plug that sticks straight out the back at the 3 o'clock position. That one on mine has a magnet in it the dealer got for me. Actually, my filler hole is through the speedometer or ABS sensor in the housing since I swing the thing down to drain out the back filler hole that has the magnetic plug once the pivot link is off and the wheel too.

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post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old Jun 1st, 2011, 7:37 pm
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I see, thanks.
Thinking maybe the magnet might be cleanon yours because the fluid would tend to wash it clean. I suppose some pieces might be tenacious enough to stay on the magnet, but in general I don't know how well it would work back there.

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post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old Jun 18th, 2011, 7:53 am Thread Starter
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Final Drive

Shortly after I started this thread I changed the rear end oil using Spectro GL5 75W/90 for the third time, oil use was 5,211 miles and a sample was sent to Blackstone Laboratories for an "oil report". I might add that on 10/21/09 I had changed the rear end oil with only 2385 miles of oil use and at that time I had Blackstone Lab do an analysis which they indicated an abnormal high level of iron and chromium, they suggested I do another analysis in 2K-5K miles. Now I have the results of the 2nd test and they indicate and confirm that very high levels of iron and chromium are once again present in the oil and both samples read at problem levels compared to universal averages, they also indicated that "at the end of the day, this final drive will fail sooner than later" and they suggested shorter oil runs of 1500-2000 miles. A friend of mine once said "oil is cheap insurance" but in this case frequent oil changes can not overcome poor engineering or assembly of a BMW rear drive. BMW does not have a problem with the rear drives failing, the owner of a BMW motorcycle that is out of warranty is the one with a problem!
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post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old Jun 18th, 2011, 8:45 am
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I've never used Blackstone for oil analysis... Do they give you the numbers so you can see the trend, or do they just give you a conclusion?


If you believe the conclusion, the next step is a visual inspection. Are you going to do this before you have a failure?

I would think high iron (bad gear hardening) and chromium (bearings) might be the problem, but is this what failed drives are exhibiting?


Anyway, thanks for the information. It's time for me to go change my drive oil too!
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post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old Jun 18th, 2011, 1:39 pm
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I've never used Blackstone for oil analysis... Do they give you the numbers so you can see the trend, or do they just give you a conclusion?
Yes, they give you the numbers so you can follow a trend if you use them enough. They store your info on their website too which is convenient should you ever need to pull the data.

So far, the final on my GT got better since Amsoil Gear Oil was used. Also, my S1000RR engine is breaking in nicely and no wild numbers to worry about.


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