Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Santa Rosa, CA, USA
I wasn't able to get a good feel for when the tensioner hit the guide when I installed mine.
On the right side of the engine down by the crank is a small plug that can be removed with a T60. This allows you to get a wrench on the crank to turn the engine over and you can see the cam chain on the crank gear. By slightly rocking the crank with a wrench, you can see the slack between the cam chain and the crank gear (this is where it skips a tooth if too loose). It's very easy to get a good adjustment by watching that slack and rocking the engine back and forth.
I think Gmack mentioned this earlier, the threads on the adjuster are course enough that very little adjustment can make a big difference in the slack. This is very noticeable when you're watching it.
’06 K1200R Corbin w/ smuggler, Wilbers shocks, PCIII, Factory Pro Dyno tuned, CC Suspension plates, Vario levers, Dual Evo filters, Leo Vince SBK, V1, Zumo 550
’02 WR250F Stock
’99 SV650 GSX-R front end, Aftershocks suspension, Penske shock, 41mm FCR flat slides, Bridgestone slicks, M4 exhaust, Vortex clipons, Woodcraft rearsets, Hot Bodies race bodywork, Factory Pro clutch cover, Total Loss ignition, BRG relocated battery, APE Adjustable Cam sprockets, JE 13:1 pistons, mild porting, balanced crank, Sunoco 110 race fuel
’98 KLX331 Race Tech suspension, 331 Stroker big bore kit, 33mm pumper, Tag bars, Stroker exhaust, IMS desert tank, tall seat foam w/ Stroker cover, Open air box, KX clutch