Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Oxnard, CA, USA
First, remove the safety clip (needle nose pliers work well for this).
Then use a drift punch (or nail) to punch the retainer pin out. You want to push the pin from the left (outside of the wheel) to the right (towards the exhaust pipe).
The pin is held in place with a spring collar, so it takes a bit of force to move. This is a good thing, as it ensures the pin won't randomly fall loose if the safety clip is lost.
Before removing the old, thin brake pads, you want to spread them apart so the brake pistons move back into the calipers, thus making room for the new, thicker pads. There is a special BMW tool for this, but I find a carefully applied large flat blade screwdriver works, if you pry carefully on the old pads themselves (and not on the rotor or caliper).
Once the new pads are in place (make sure the front edge of the pads sits correctly into the corresponding slot in the caliper), slide the retainer pin in from the right, noting the position of the safety pin hole. I usually mark a line on the end of the pin, and put the hole facing straight down. Use the hammer and drift to punch the pin back into place, then install the safety clip.
Don't forget to pump up the brake pedal to seat the new pads against the rotor. Nothing worse than going for the brakes the first time and having nothing there for several pumps . . .
'13 Dark Graphite Metallic K16GTLD, 24K miles and counting...
'09 Magnesium Beige Metallic K13GT, 60K miles miles and counting...
'02 Mauve Metallic K12LTC, 106K miles and sold
BMWLT#145, IBA# 366, MOA# 111996, SCMA# 24032
All lower 48 states plus Alaska on the K13GT in two weeks . . .
Some people see the gas tank as half empty. Some see it as half full. All I care is that I know where the next tankful is coming from...
Last edited by Meese; Nov 6th, 2012 at 12:14 pm.