Having some trouble with connecting this, dealer doing it. It is under the back seat. When he picked up the canbus from the rear brake, the power was too low unless the brake was on and the unit clicked madly. Next tried linking in using the factory power outlet on the left... this won't allow the battery charger to run and chatters when the battery charger is attached.
Is there any other place that is handy without having to go to the front of the bike?
With Canbus you should avoid connecting to the Canbus circuit and go directly to the battery. Splicing into a canbus circuit is not a good idea. It makes all kinds of things to go wrong.
The main positive & negative feeds for the fuse block obviously connect directly to the battery.
So it's the trigger wire that you need to connect to the CanBus. Where you connect this depends on how you want things to turn On/Off. Here are your options:
ON all the time - direct to battery.
ON with the key and OFF ~60 seconds after the key - use the Red/White wire from the GPS accessory plug, located up in front of the battery.
ON with the key and OFF with the key - use either the extra power socket on the left side of the bike, or the parking light up near the headlight (for which there is a plug & play harness available).
ON when the engine starts (as opposed to when the key is turned on) and OFF with the key - use the Low Beam light feed, although this does require splicing in to the existing wiring.
The main positive & negative feeds for the fuse block obviously connect directly to the battery.
So it's the trigger wire that you need to connect to the CanBus. Where you connect this depends on how you want things to turn On/Off. Here are your options:
ON all the time - direct to battery.
ON with the key and OFF ~60 seconds after the key - use the Red/White wire from the GPS accessory plug, located up in front of the battery.
ON with the key and OFF with the key - use either the extra power socket on the left side of the bike, or the parking light up near the headlight (for which there is a plug & play harness available).
ON when the engine starts (as opposed to when the key is turned on) and OFF with the key - use the Low Beam light feed, although this does require splicing in to the existing wiring.
Thanks, I was meaning the trigger wire. It seems that with the Touratech unit, the power in the circuit for both the rear brake and the main power outlet on the left are too low when they are not on (I guess 'active' in the case of the power outlet) since this produces the 'chatter' of the relay in the Touratech unit.
I assume that I will have to go to something that is forward, something I was hoping to avoid.
Ken, you mention the 'extra' power outlet on the left. That is the first thing I am attaching to the new block (since you can't run the mini tire compressor off the primary power plug there). You seem to be saying that this is already wired and all a rider has to do is add the plug itself. Is that so?... the wiring is tucked away behind there somewhere? Even if it is, I assume it is like the GPS and switches off after 60 seconds?
It's been a while since I've done this wiring; my response was copied from an old post.
There should be only one factory Accessory Power Socket on the left side of the bike, with a punch-out to add a second. Many people add a second socket that's wired directly to the battery, either through relay/fuse block, or directly to the battery (still fused) so they can use a battery charger when the bike is off.
Your best bet for the trigger wire is to tap the Low Beam, Parking Light, or GPS plug.
The Parking Light can be tapped using a PosiTap, or this piggyback harness from Twisted Throttle.
The GPS plug can be tapped using BMW's GPS plug, part # 83 3 00 413 585.
The Low Beam and Parking Light are up at the front, and the GPS plug is just in front of the battery. It's a bit more trouble to run the wires forward, but if you do it right, you won't have any trouble down the road.
I tied into the LED brake light wire that is powered on by the ignition switch to activate the relay that powers up the Centech AP1. In one of the pictures and It's not a great shot but you can see the wire from the relay going to the splice in the harness.
John
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