Rotella T-6 5W40 full syn opinions??? - K-Bikes.com - Excellence in Motion
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post #1 of 25 (permalink) Old May 19th, 2013, 11:48 am Thread Starter
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Rotella T-6 5W40 full syn opinions???

Anybody using this oil vs. Castrol or BMW oil? Want longer term opinions if possible. Several folks including my self using this oil in vintage bikes that one oil for clutch and engine.
Thanks

2009 K1300GT Blue
1983 CB 1100F Blue
1983 CB 1123 CB1100F Red
1980 CBX-A Black
Blue is Fastest!
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post #2 of 25 (permalink) Old May 19th, 2013, 2:32 pm
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Been using Shell Rotella T6 Syn for years. 34k on Honda 1300st, 06 K12GT-slant4-32k and several previous bikes. Now in 04k12GT (brick) 20k mikes-Nary a problem. Oil and filter change every 5k..

Marin Phil
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post #3 of 25 (permalink) Old May 19th, 2013, 6:27 pm
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Forgive the ignorance, is that a motorcycle oil? Is it ok for our wet clutches?

Bill

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post #4 of 25 (permalink) Old May 19th, 2013, 8:17 pm
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Yes, it is even JASO MA rated. It's primarily marketed as a diesel oil but has all the right stuff for motorcycle applications as well.
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post #5 of 25 (permalink) Old May 20th, 2013, 2:15 pm
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My only/main concern with that oil is that it shears quickly to a 30W oil according to many used oil analyses I read. down to ~10-11cSt @100C.

This may or may not be of concern to you.

'06 K1200R- in pieces
'73 Honda CB500F- slow but fun.
'77 Yamaha XS 750 triple- kinda
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post #6 of 25 (permalink) Old May 23rd, 2013, 5:19 am Thread Starter
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Shear?

I've read this shear reports also. I have not found the same report for BMW or Castrol 5W40 have you? Historically I use Castrol 10W50 racing in the old Honda's changed every 2000 miles so shear not really an issue. I plan on 3000 mile changes in the 1300GT unless I can find other info pro or con to this frequency. Thanks for the replies.

2009 K1300GT Blue
1983 CB 1100F Blue
1983 CB 1123 CB1100F Red
1980 CBX-A Black
Blue is Fastest!
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post #7 of 25 (permalink) Old May 24th, 2013, 4:12 pm
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At the risk of turing this into another oil thread...

I tend to run a 0W multigrade oil because I believe all oils are too thick at start up.

I tend to run synthetic oils because mineral based oils are too thick at start up.

I tend to run 40W multigrade oil because I want to maintain a minimum oil pressure when hot at elevated rpms.



If you are touring mostly with your GT and not reving to the redline or using full throttle regularly, I would tend to use a 0W30 or 0W40 oil to protect it at startup. 5W40 shell rotella may be OK but it is still too thick at start up. Hooking up an oil pressure gauge and making sure you maintain approximately a 10psi/1000rpm level would help with the shear issue.

I don't see any need to run 50w oil in modern engines with tighter tolerances. Older engines with poorly machined parts required higher viscosities to maintain pressure and lubrication. no so much with modern engines.

Of course the flip side is that BMW warranties your bike and specifices a certain weight oil. In that sense, you might stick with their recommendations.


So, is shell rotella 5W40 OK for the BMW. It is a multigrade oil with the latest SM rating from API. I'm sure it will do FINE particularly at the oil change interval that you state. (But so would many other oils.)

'06 K1200R- in pieces
'73 Honda CB500F- slow but fun.
'77 Yamaha XS 750 triple- kinda

Last edited by JCW; May 24th, 2013 at 4:30 pm.
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post #8 of 25 (permalink) Old May 24th, 2013, 5:19 pm
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I really don't get the endless threads about oil.
Why both taking a chance with Rotella, Royal Purple, whatever, when all you have to do is stick with factory recommended type, weights and brands. Seems pretty simple to me,
Why chance going cheap on an oil change on a multi thousand dollar engine.
Arguably, BMW engineers have done some goofy things over the years, but really, if they recommend a type, weight etc, they are far more knowledgeable that I (or most here) regarding what they have built.

any way...for what its worth...

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post #9 of 25 (permalink) Old May 24th, 2013, 5:38 pm
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Why change at 3,000 miles, when the factory recommendation is 6,000?

Use a good quality synthetic oil that meets API and viscosity ratings, change it every 6K (or at least once a year if you don't ride that much), and stop worrying about it.

Unless you're racing the bike on a track, anything more is just a waste of money and resources . . .

Ken
Pacific NorthWet
'13 Dark Graphite Metallic K16GTLD, 24K miles and counting...
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'02 Mauve Metallic K12LTC, 106K miles and sold
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post #10 of 25 (permalink) Old May 25th, 2013, 7:39 am Thread Starter
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Thanks for the responses.

Just gathering opinions as the K1300GT is new to me and my experience is all with VJMC bikes for 40 years.

2009 K1300GT Blue
1983 CB 1100F Blue
1983 CB 1123 CB1100F Red
1980 CBX-A Black
Blue is Fastest!
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