My next project: Denali D2 Lights.. question - K-Bikes.com - Excellence in Motion
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old May 25th, 2013, 12:49 pm Thread Starter
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My next project: Denali D2 Lights.. question

So far this weekend, I have installed a new horn, a rear LED brake light, a full autocomm with music and GPS and now I am on to my last project for this holiday weekend... my new Denali D2 aux lights.

My question.... The D2's are dual intensity and I like this feature so I can use the lights a night without blinding traffic in front of me. I have the can-bus adapter for the primary low intensity setting (plugs into the parking light).

The problem... I have no idea which wire is the high beam wire headed into the main headlight. Is there a simple way to find this int he very crowed frontal area?
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old Jun 1st, 2013, 2:32 pm
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I don't the know the answer, but I hope a knowledgeable someone helps out. I'm planning the same upgrade this summer, who did you buy your D2 kit from?
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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old Jun 12th, 2013, 12:03 pm Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by troyt
I don't the know the answer, but I hope a knowledgeable someone helps out. I'm planning the same upgrade this summer, who did you buy your D2 kit from?

Friend
Sorry it took so long to get back to you but I just returned from my 2500mile trip to New England and Canada with my new Denali D2 light set up and here is my feedback:

- Bought the lights from Twisted Throttle
- They have great tech support on the phone (but see below)
- Lights worked VERY well
- I recommend going through the effort to use the dual intensity set up. (High, Low, Off)

Few things on the install.. I see no reason to use the canbus adaptor they want to sell you for a few bucks. It isn't the cost but it replaces the parking lamp but the light bulb socket was not as long as the OEM so it would have recessed the bulb more than the OEM socket. Not sure if they sent me the wrong one or not but I just tossed it in my tool bench for later. I did hook up the low beam wire to the powered wire on the low beam headlamp which links the relay in a way that the D2's only come on after the bike is started. There is no way to turn the lights on without the engine running. This was the best way to protect the battery and I don't need to see 300ft down the road when the bike isn't moving.

Now, the D2 comes with a second wire that runs to the relay that has to attach to something that triggers the high beam on the D2's. Simply put, I ran that to the powered wire for my high beams. Both low and high beam OEM wires I accessed from behind the light housing. In hindsight, I would have removed the entire nose and used a Posi-Tap wire splice and run the D2 wire harness around to the throttle size of the bike with all the headlight wiring. What I did (because I was running out of time) was to Posi-Tap the D2 system into the respective high/low beam and run the D2 wires out of the headlight access/dust covers which are the covers you use to change bulbs. Next time I have reason to take the entire nose off, I will clean this up but for now, it works great and taking the nose off is a major PITA.

Finally.. the light mounting. I bought the twisted throttle fork mount fender adapter kit which is basically spacers and a bolt that screws in to the hole left by removing the M6 bolt that holds the front fender onto the fork. What was messed up is... the kit from TT did not fit the bike well. I contacted them and they confirmed it was the right kit for a 2007 K12GT and K13GT of later years but I tried it every way and it doesn't fit.. Here is the problem and solution.

The kit comes with two spacers. One large and one smaller in dia. The smaller one is supposed to fit through the hole in the plastic faring and you run the M6 bolt though the larger spacer and then the smaller spacer and then into the fork. The smaller dia spacer didn't fit through the plastic fender hole and I didn't want to drill the hole bigger and the more I mocked up the set up, the less I saw I needed the smaller spacer. The OEM set up doesn't use a spacer so I don't know why I wanted to use it. I tossed the small one to the side. The larger of the two spacers which the lights mount agaist was ideal for the job. Offsets the lights away from the fender by 1.5" or so and the diameter of the spacer fits PERFECTLY in the recess (not the hole) in the plastic fender. It is exactly the piece you need and when you eliminate the smaller spacer, the whole set up is also more STABLE because you have a wider surface area against the fender/fork. This also looks more finished and solid almost like it was all made to work as an OEM set up.

Now,, here is one trivial thing that will eliminate frustration that I had... the long 60-75MM M6 bolt they sent with the kit is entirely TOO LONG regardless of using 1 or 2 spacers. With both spacers applied, it is still 10MM too long and the hole is finite and does not pass through the inside of the fork so the bolt can be NO longer than the distance from the light mount to the terminal point in the threaded fork hole. In my case, it seemed to work at about 45-50MM. I didn't measure it exactly and you just have to have enough thread through the fender to make it solid but start with 50MM and see if you reach the terminal point in the fork before the light is tight. If yes, shorten the bolt to 45MM. I would NOT add washers to make the 60MM bolts work. It is messy and less stable. Simply stated, I used a dremel to cut the bolt to the length I needed and gently de-burred any rough metal off the bolt and all was well with the world. The other choice would be to source bolts of the right size but... dremel does the same thing.

So.. I love the lights but wish the fender mounting adapter would have been an out of the box solution. If you plan on mounting the lights just under the air-intake, then ignore all of the stuff about the mount but I really like having them down near the wheel because it gives a very distinct separation between headlamps and driving lights giving the bike more notice to other vehicles (half the reason I got these lights were for safety).

I don't check this board much but if you have questions... post them here and I should get an email.

Cheers
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old Jun 13th, 2013, 9:24 pm
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how about a picture of the lights

'07 K1200GT Crystal Gray Metalic
'00 Ducati 900 Monster
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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old Jun 14th, 2013, 8:54 am Thread Starter
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The bike was still very dirty from the trip so anything you see on the lights, mounts or lenses is just dirt and bugs. The finish is very nice as is the stainless hardware.

If you read my long winded post carefully, it talks about how the black spacer fits perfectly into the recess of the plastic fender giving it a very nice flush mount. You can see that in the close-up of the light. The bolt that has to be a M6, 45-50MM is the bolt that passes through this spacer. You can see the head of the bolt which is inside the u-shaped light mount.

One thing I failed to note above is the careful routing of the wires when mounting on the forks/fender. Basically, I ran them along the brake lines but you have to make sure there is enough slack for the wheel to to turn in BOTH directions especially for the cross over light (clutch side of the bike). Too much slack and you have wires in the way.. too little and the bike wont turn in a parking lot. The routing of the harness is key to this also.

I don't have any pics of the brightness of the lights because my kids were sleeping when I took these pics but they are nicely bright at the lower (40%) output, and fk-ing really bright at the high (100%) setting. If you want comparisons, best you go to twisted throttle or denali websites.

In summary, I really like these lights and they are 1000% better than standard bullet lights and nearly as bring as anything on the market for their size. I have seen some Adventure type lights that have higher output for $650 but they are also bigger. For me, these are the best of all worlds and worked great in a real world test of 3000miles.
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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old Jun 14th, 2013, 11:13 pm
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Thanks for the photos
looks like my next farkle

'07 K1200GT Crystal Gray Metalic
'00 Ducati 900 Monster
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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old Jul 3rd, 2013, 8:45 pm
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Thanks for the excellent write-up.
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old Jul 4th, 2013, 6:57 am
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I have been coveting these lights. Hesitant about the install. Twisted Throttle quoted 4x$90 per hour for them to do it. Which sounds right and they are not that far from me. But would still like to save that $. Nice post, thank you.

Eat dessert first.
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old Jul 10th, 2013, 8:17 am Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by emtnek
I have been coveting these lights. Hesitant about the install. Twisted Throttle quoted 4x$90 per hour for them to do it. Which sounds right and they are not that far from me. But would still like to save that $. Nice post, thank you.

emtnek, I wouldn't pay them to do it. I am a electrical idiot and I figured it out in less than 4 hours inclusive of the small modifications to the bolts. The hardest thing to conceptualize is where to tap the hi and low beam wires to trigger the relay. The main power is off the battery. Even if you choose not to take the whole nose off (which I did NOT) it isn't that hard.

For a 6pack of Sam Adams Summer Ale, I will spend some time on the phone with you and save you $360+tax.

PM me when/if you buy the lights and get all the mounting pieces.

Scott
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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old Jul 12th, 2013, 12:34 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Soberman001
Friend
Sorry it took so long to get back to you but I just returned from my 2500mile trip to New England and Canada with my new Denali D2 light set up and here is my feedback:

- Bought the lights from Twisted Throttle
- They have great tech support on the phone (but see below)
- Lights worked VERY well
- I recommend going through the effort to use the dual intensity set up. (High, Low, Off)

Few things on the install.. I see no reason to use the canbus adaptor they want to sell you for a few bucks. It isn't the cost but it replaces the parking lamp but the light bulb socket was not as long as the OEM so it would have recessed the bulb more than the OEM socket. Not sure if they sent me the wrong one or not but I just tossed it in my tool bench for later. I did hook up the low beam wire to the powered wire on the low beam headlamp which links the relay in a way that the D2's only come on after the bike is started. There is no way to turn the lights on without the engine running. This was the best way to protect the battery and I don't need to see 300ft down the road when the bike isn't moving.

Now, the D2 comes with a second wire that runs to the relay that has to attach to something that triggers the high beam on the D2's. Simply put, I ran that to the powered wire for my high beams. Both low and high beam OEM wires I accessed from behind the light housing. In hindsight, I would have removed the entire nose and used a Posi-Tap wire splice and run the D2 wire harness around to the throttle size of the bike with all the headlight wiring. What I did (because I was running out of time) was to Posi-Tap the D2 system into the respective high/low beam and run the D2 wires out of the headlight access/dust covers which are the covers you use to change bulbs. Next time I have reason to take the entire nose off, I will clean this up but for now, it works great and taking the nose off is a major PITA.

Finally.. the light mounting. I bought the twisted throttle fork mount fender adapter kit which is basically spacers and a bolt that screws in to the hole left by removing the M6 bolt that holds the front fender onto the fork. What was messed up is... the kit from TT did not fit the bike well. I contacted them and they confirmed it was the right kit for a 2007 K12GT and K13GT of later years but I tried it every way and it doesn't fit.. Here is the problem and solution.

The kit comes with two spacers. One large and one smaller in dia. The smaller one is supposed to fit through the hole in the plastic faring and you run the M6 bolt though the larger spacer and then the smaller spacer and then into the fork. The smaller dia spacer didn't fit through the plastic fender hole and I didn't want to drill the hole bigger and the more I mocked up the set up, the less I saw I needed the smaller spacer. The OEM set up doesn't use a spacer so I don't know why I wanted to use it. I tossed the small one to the side. The larger of the two spacers which the led lights mount agaist was ideal for the job. Offsets the lights away from the fender by 1.5" or so and the diameter of the spacer fits PERFECTLY in the recess (not the hole) in the plastic fender. It is exactly the piece you need and when you eliminate the smaller spacer, the whole set up is also more STABLE because you have a wider surface area against the fender/fork. This also looks more finished and solid almost like it was all made to work as an OEM set up.

Now,, here is one trivial thing that will eliminate frustration that I had... the long 60-75MM M6 bolt they sent with the kit is entirely TOO LONG regardless of using 1 or 2 spacers. With both spacers applied, it is still 10MM too long and the hole is finite and does not pass through the inside of the fork so the bolt can be NO longer than the distance from the light mount to the terminal point in the threaded fork hole. In my case, it seemed to work at about 45-50MM. I didn't measure it exactly and you just have to have enough thread through the fender to make it solid but start with 50MM and see if you reach the terminal point in the fork before the light is tight. If yes, shorten the bolt to 45MM. I would NOT add washers to make the 60MM bolts work. It is messy and less stable. Simply stated, I used a dremel to cut the bolt to the length I needed and gently de-burred any rough metal off the bolt and all was well with the world. The other choice would be to source bolts of the right size but... dremel does the same thing.

So.. I love the lights but wish the fender mounting adapter would have been an out of the box solution. If you plan on mounting the
led lights just under the air-intake, then ignore all of the stuff about the mount but I really like having them down near the wheel because it gives a very distinct separation between headlamps and driving lights giving the bike more notice to other vehicles (half the reason I got these lights were for safety).

I don't check this board much but if you have questions... post them here and I should get an email.

Cheers
Just perfect information.. You have shared perfect information Denali D2 light set up.. I think I will get the set up now and will post my own review very soon

Last edited by TonyPoole; Jul 13th, 2013 at 2:17 am.
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