Where to plug in Centech fuse box relay - K-Bikes.com - Excellence in Motion
 
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post #1 of 6 (permalink) Old May 26th, 2013, 2:23 pm Thread Starter
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Location: Basking Ridge, NJ, USA
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Where to plug in Centech fuse box relay

Gents
After all fun I had trying to install 4 different electric farkles I have decided to get a Centech fuse box and mount it under the seat. I will in installing it as a switched box that turns off when the bike power goes off. Unlike the AUX Outlet which stays on for 15mins after the bike shuts down. I am going to install the Relay which goes to the fuse box to accomplish this task.

My simple question on this bike... where is the best wire to tap into for the relay that goes off when the bike goes off? The tail lights are the most accessible but the K has dual intensity bulbs and I didn't know if there would be an issue every time I hit the brake (lights). Is there another, easiy to find and harmless wire somewhere? or is the brake light just fine since the surge of the brake light doesn't impact a relay?

Thanks, and I appreciate your patients as I am not very good at electric stuff.
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post #2 of 6 (permalink) Old May 26th, 2013, 5:52 pm
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You don't want to use the tail light tap on the GT. The CanBus system makes it different than other bikes.

You have three basic options, depending on when you want the fuse block to turn on and off.

1) Tie into the factory GPS lead which is located in front of the battery. This will turn the fuse block on with the key, and keep it on a minute or two after you turn off the key. There is a BMW wiring harness available which means you wouldn't have to cut any wires.

2) Tie into the parking light lead at the top of the headlight. This will turn the fuse block on with the key, and off with the key. There is an aftermarket wiring harness available which means you wouldn't have to cut any wires.

3) Tie into the main low beam headlight feed. This won't turn the fuse block on until the engine is running, and will turn it off with the key. There is no wiring harness available so you would have to tap into the low beam wire. PosiTaps work well for this.

The details of the installation depend obviously on which way you go. It isn't terribly difficult either way, but if you're not absolutely sure of what you're doing, then get someone who is. Even if you have to pay them, as it's much cheaper than messing up the bike's wiring.

There's more good info and some pics in this thread and this thread.

Ken
Pacific NorthWet
'13 Dark Graphite Metallic K16GTLD, 24K miles and counting...
'09 Magnesium Beige Metallic K13GT, 60K miles miles and counting...
'02 Mauve Metallic K12LTC, 106K miles and sold
BMWLT#145, IBA# 366, MOA# 111996, SCMA# 24032

All lower 48 states plus Alaska on the K13GT in two weeks . . .

Some people see the gas tank as half empty. Some see it as half full. All I care is that I know where the next tankful is coming from...
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post #3 of 6 (permalink) Old May 27th, 2013, 9:57 am Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Meese
You don't want to use the tail light tap on the GT. The CanBus system makes it different than other bikes.

You have three basic options, depending on when you want the fuse block to turn on and off.

1) Tie into the factory GPS lead which is located in front of the battery. This will turn the fuse block on with the key, and keep it on a minute or two after you turn off the key. There is a BMW wiring harness available which means you wouldn't have to cut any wires.

2) Tie into the parking light lead at the top of the headlight. This will turn the fuse block on with the key, and off with the key. There is an aftermarket wiring harness available which means you wouldn't have to cut any wires.

3) Tie into the main low beam headlight feed. This won't turn the fuse block on until the engine is running, and will turn it off with the key. There is no wiring harness available so you would have to tap into the low beam wire. PosiTaps work well for this.

The details of the installation depend obviously on which way you go. It isn't terribly difficult either way, but if you're not absolutely sure of what you're doing, then get someone who is. Even if you have to pay them, as it's much cheaper than messing up the bike's wiring.

There's more good info and some pics in this thread and this thread.

Meese,
My Denali lights came with a canbus adapter for use with he parking light which triggers the relay. the problem with this adaper is it does not push the light all the way back into the lense the way the OEM mount is. Which aftermarket harness are you referring to above in #2?

Also, if I tap into the headlamp, how do that not impact the canbus system if using the rear tail lamp tap does impact it?

Thanks
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post #4 of 6 (permalink) Old May 27th, 2013, 12:59 pm
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Use a Posi-Tap on either the parking light (if you want it on/off with the key) or the low beam (if you want it on with the engine and off with the key) for your relay trigger.

If you want to use the parking light as a trigger, you could remove the CanBus helper and just run both trigger wires into the same Posi-Tap.

Here's a more detailed explanation of how it all works:

All the parking light adapter does is make it so you don't have to cut/splice any wires. Helpful, but nothing spectacular.

These days, I'd just use a Posi-Tap and be done with it.

Relays use very little current on their trigger wires, and the bulk of the load is fed through the main contacts (that's the whole point of a relay, after all).

The tail light feed doesn't work well as a relay trigger because it's not a standard 12Vdc signal. BMW uses a single filament bulb for both the rear running lights and the brake light.

The rear running lights are fed a PWM (Pulse Width Modulated) signal. Think of a square wave where the signal is being switched on and off rapidly, and thus the average power output is lower than full-on 12Vdc. This gives you a reduced brightness at the rear lamps, but also makes the relay trigger unhappy.

For brake lights, the PWM signal is switched to full-on, giving you full brightness through the same bulb filament.

The low beam is fed a solid 12Vdc signal. Yes, it's monitored by CanBus for expected current flow, but the relay trigger pulls so little current that it doesn't cause any problems.

As an aside, the PWM signal is also why these bikes don't like having HID upgrades on the high beams. CanBus modulates the high beam feed using a PWM signal, to reduce brightness when the bike is stopped or idling (who needs to see when you're stopped anyway). So the HID upgrade kits are expecting a good 12Vdc signal, and instead "see" the equivalent or 8 or 9 volts, so they fail to ignite properly. They will light up once the bike is rolling at speed (and the high beam is up to full power), but then the CanBus notices the reduced current flow (from 35w HIDs instead of 55w Halogen bulbs) and throws a bulb out error . . .

Ken
Pacific NorthWet
'13 Dark Graphite Metallic K16GTLD, 24K miles and counting...
'09 Magnesium Beige Metallic K13GT, 60K miles miles and counting...
'02 Mauve Metallic K12LTC, 106K miles and sold
BMWLT#145, IBA# 366, MOA# 111996, SCMA# 24032

All lower 48 states plus Alaska on the K13GT in two weeks . . .

Some people see the gas tank as half empty. Some see it as half full. All I care is that I know where the next tankful is coming from...

Last edited by Meese; May 27th, 2013 at 1:04 pm.
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post #5 of 6 (permalink) Old May 28th, 2013, 6:20 am Thread Starter
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Meese, thanks for the help and education. Here is what I ended up doing since I couldn't get a aux fuse box over the weekend and needed to leave for my trip in a few days.

I put the lower output wire from the Denali light relay onto the main headlight using a pos-tap as you recommended. Then, wired the high output wire from the relay to the high beam wire. Now the aux lights stay off until the bike comes fully up, and I can use the highbeam light switch to increase the output of the Denali's (as intended).

The GPS and Autocomm are still on the delayed power switches so they stay on for a bit after the bike shuts off. I think this might be helpful for those two devices and they shut off in no more than 15mins per the owners manual. If the ipod isn't playing, it shuts down in 90seconds. Odd... but I hear this is normal.

The autocomm is acutally plugged into the external Aux Power outlet so I can unplug it at night since sometimes they draw the smallest amount of power. no big deal for a day or two but for a week, I want it unplugged if my battery tender isn't around.

The horn and rear LED light are powered as described above

All seems to be working just great and I appreciate all your help.
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post #6 of 6 (permalink) Old May 28th, 2013, 10:23 am
IBR# 366
 
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Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Oxnard, CA, USA
Posts: 3,143
Glad you got it sorted.

Have a good trip.

Ken
Pacific NorthWet
'13 Dark Graphite Metallic K16GTLD, 24K miles and counting...
'09 Magnesium Beige Metallic K13GT, 60K miles miles and counting...
'02 Mauve Metallic K12LTC, 106K miles and sold
BMWLT#145, IBA# 366, MOA# 111996, SCMA# 24032

All lower 48 states plus Alaska on the K13GT in two weeks . . .

Some people see the gas tank as half empty. Some see it as half full. All I care is that I know where the next tankful is coming from...
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