K1200GT Oberon Clutch Slave Cylinder - K-Bikes.com - Excellence in Motion
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post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old Aug 11th, 2013, 5:50 pm Thread Starter
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Location: Dallas, TX, USA
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K1200GT Oberon Clutch Slave Cylinder

Has anyone installed the Oberon Clutch Slave Cylinder from Pirate's Lair?

Did it make any difference in the clutch shudder?

Do it make a big difference int eh clutch feel and action?

Is it worth spending $200?

Does anyone know of another Clutch Slave Cylinder option I should consider?

I spent a long weekend on a K1300GT and am going to make a few changes to the 1200.

Thanks
Mark
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post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old Aug 12th, 2013, 6:15 pm
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Can't speak to the Oberon part from my buddy Jerry at Pirates' Lair, Marky Mark. If memory serves, the clutch chatter or shudder on the K12 bikes is coming from the clutch basket. For those that replaced the basket, the damnable noise comes back in time. Seems like it's a fault in the clutch design. Try searching on clutch chatter or shudder as there should be a few threads addressing the issue. If I'm incorrect, no doubt Ken will set me straight.

And don't waste your time on a K1300. Spend a long test ride on a K1600GT and you'll be reaching for the ole checkbook.
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post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old Aug 12th, 2013, 9:45 pm
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David's got it right.

Replacing the clutch slave cylinder with a larger bore part will make the clutch pull a little easier, and the engagement range a little longer.

If you're jerky with the clutch handle this may smooth takeoff slightly, but it will not eliminate the dreaded clutch judder.

That's caused by worn clutch basket splines, meaning the clutch plates get a bit "sticky" as they engage. The only solution there is a new clutch basket and inner clutch hub and plates . . .

There was a company that made replacement clutch plates for the Slant/4 motor, but I don't think they didi the full clutch package and hub.

It's simply a known weakness on an otherwise fine bike . . .

Ken
Pacific NorthWet
'13 Dark Graphite Metallic K16GTLD, 24K miles and counting...
'09 Magnesium Beige Metallic K13GT, 60K miles miles and counting...
'02 Mauve Metallic K12LTC, 106K miles and sold
BMWLT#145, IBA# 366, MOA# 111996, SCMA# 24032

All lower 48 states plus Alaska on the K13GT in two weeks . . .

Some people see the gas tank as half empty. Some see it as half full. All I care is that I know where the next tankful is coming from...
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post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old Aug 12th, 2013, 11:24 pm Thread Starter
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my 1200 has had the Turkey noise on take off since I bought it at 6240 miles!! I hope I didn't just waste my money on that Oberon part!!

Now if someone can tell me how to get to that throttle limiter plunger do hicky thingy mabob without removing my fuel tank...or even how to remove the fuel tank...
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post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old Aug 13th, 2013, 10:14 pm
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You have to remove the tank to get to it.
You have to remove most of the plastic to remove the tank.
keep track of where the screws go, they are different lengths.
Check the technical section - hall of wisdom - new generation
should find what you need there

If you watch the assembly movie of the K1x00gt, the throttle stop is the first part down the assembly line and the bike is built around it - that's my story and I'm sticking to it.

Might as well do the power commander, chain jump guard, new o2 sensor, while you are at it,

'07 K1200GT Crystal Gray Metalic
'00 Ducati 900 Monster
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post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old Aug 13th, 2013, 11:50 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by K1200GTDallas
my 1200 has had the Turkey noise on take off since I bought it at 6240 miles!! I hope I didn't just waste my money on that Oberon part!!

Now if someone can tell me how to get to that throttle limiter plunger do hicky thingy mabob without removing my fuel tank...or even how to remove the fuel tank...

Yea, ya gotta pull the tank . Lots of body screws..the 2 tank side hex bolts and your almost in business. vent rubber hose on top of tank has to come off. Be careful with the quick connect. keep it straight when you are trying to reach down there to disconnect it. Pump and fuel lever connectors disconnected and your done. I found it easier to just unsrew the 2 torx screws and zip-tie the assembly over to the right side(there's plenty of room for it), vs. shimming it. Run the screws back in their original locations and your done with everything but the reassembly...

Hint: I found a X-box shipping pad of my son's that I have been using to store the body screws in a similar pattern as they come off the bike. It's rectangular and I simply pushed the screws into it as I took them off like a pin cushion. It will take both sides and the screws never fall out.

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Message sent from my Radio Shack TRS-80 using a keyboard and electricity.
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post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old Aug 17th, 2013, 6:37 pm Thread Starter
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Oberon Update

Good News: replaced the stock slave with the Oberson slave today and it makes a really big difference in how the clutch feels and acts. I really like the new clutch action. Add that to the bearing install I did on the shift level and shifting is now really good.

Bad News: it made no change in the turkey call sound the clutch makes on take off or the difficulty getting the bike into N.

If I start the bike in 1st and the clutch pulled in...I can feel the bike move forward so the clutch is still a little engaged so it make sense to be hard into N.

Is there any adjustment I can do on this bike? I recall something about adjusting the screw in the clutch level in or out for some adjustment???

Thanks
Mark
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post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old Aug 17th, 2013, 8:10 pm
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Glad it's a little better.

There is no other clutch adjustment. The screw on the clutch lever simply changes where the lever is when the clutch engages. (closer to the grip or further away). It has no effect on clutch engagement itself.

Wet multi-plate clutches always have some drag. The question becomes, is it too much drag?

The (relatively) cheapest solution is to try BMW's recommended 5W40 oil and see if that helps.

Otherwise, your only real option is to replace the clutch with the upgraded version from the K1300GT. This doesn't entirely eliminate the problem, but it will reduce it noticeably. It is not cheap, though . . .

Wish I had better answers, but there it is.

Or, you could just learn to live with the noise . . .

Ken
Pacific NorthWet
'13 Dark Graphite Metallic K16GTLD, 24K miles and counting...
'09 Magnesium Beige Metallic K13GT, 60K miles miles and counting...
'02 Mauve Metallic K12LTC, 106K miles and sold
BMWLT#145, IBA# 366, MOA# 111996, SCMA# 24032

All lower 48 states plus Alaska on the K13GT in two weeks . . .

Some people see the gas tank as half empty. Some see it as half full. All I care is that I know where the next tankful is coming from...
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post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old Aug 18th, 2013, 2:11 pm Thread Starter
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I have been running 5w-40 since someone said it might help...it didn't. :-)

Just went for a 2 hour ride in the country south of Dallas and I really like the difference the shifter bearings and clutch slave mods made in the shifting of the bike.

I have been living with the turkey calls since I got the bike so I guess I will just continue to live with it until I get a K1300 or replace the clutch on the 12.

Now for the BP, new O2, and stepper removal.

Anyone do Tech Daze around DFW to help out us newbies?????

Thanks
Marks
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post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old Aug 23rd, 2016, 5:29 am
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Hi

New here, greetings from Poland.
Deicided to bring back this thread as i made lot of master cylinder/slave cylinder modifications in Harleys, so when i bought few weeks ago K1200R and first day stucked in traffic jam,my hand could not hold clutch after 1h. So i'll clear this up.

First i wanted to make own, but i found Oberon and deicided to buy since price is very good.

Now clutch operates with one finger, but it was dragging. This is normal, since larger diameter piston has less travel. I have also adjustable levers, so i just adjusted one to have more travel and voila. No dragging, very smooth and better shifts. Highly recommended.

I installed at same time lowering kit from lust racing for about 1 inch and now going to install Annitori quick shifter.

Amazing bike...
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