Quick Disconnects - an issue on the K12/13GT??? - K-Bikes.com - Excellence in Motion
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old Aug 14th, 2013, 1:10 pm Thread Starter
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Quick Disconnects - an issue on the K12/13GT???

I was reading somewhere about the QDs on the older brick K12 having issues and then saw Griff's post about replacing them with metal QDs.

Have there been any real issues with the QDs on the slant 4 K12/13GT that I should worry about and preventatively replace these over the winter???

I have an '08 K12GT with 15k miles on her so far - love the bike to death...

TIA,
Jeff

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Jeff Guntert - Schenectady, NY
2008 K1200GT
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old Aug 15th, 2013, 11:25 pm Thread Starter
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Well I'm guessing by the deafening silence that these really aren't an issue with the next gen KGT's then????

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Jeff Guntert - Schenectady, NY
2008 K1200GT
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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old Aug 15th, 2013, 11:33 pm
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Just take a look at the QD coupling. If it's all metal-no problem-plastic-replace w metal. IIRC Brick used plastic-Slant-metal.

Marin Phil
2013 K13S-Anniv ED
'06 K12GT Blue of course!_Sold-too many problems
'05 Ducati 999-My Italian Mistress_sold and missed
2004 K12 GT-Orient Blue-the new me.-Sold
about 30 before that but too old to remember them all..
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old Aug 15th, 2013, 11:50 pm
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I'm assuming you mean this post from Grif.

Basically, the quick disconnects used on the fuel line(s) are plastic, can get brittle with heat/time, and might break.

It was more of a problem on the older Brick motors, because you had two in-line pairs, unsupported, sitting right above the engine. Any flexing or movement put stress on the thinner part of the male QD and could result in a crack, especially if handled roughly during bike maintenance.

On the Slant/4 motors, you have one 90 male elbow and one flange-mount female, sitting higher up the gas tank (and thus further from the hot motor).

If you're not seeing a fuel leak or smelling fuel, I wouldn't stress about it too much.

But I would source the correct metal elbow to have on hand the next time you have to pull the gas tank off. I'd leave the female side in place, as it's quite easy to over-tighten those and crack the fuel pump plate (thus causing the leak you were trying to avoid). Also, the female QDs don't really fail, so they're fine to leave in place.

The parts can be bought from omega.com, and you want part # FT-LCD230-04 VITON 1/4" ID, Elbows, Hose barb, 1.28" Length, Shutoff, Insert 1/4" flow.

There is a picture of the fitting at the bottom of this page.

Make sure you specify the Viton o-ring, as that is fuel safe.

Another failure mechanism is if you're sloppy connecting/disconnecting these, you can nick the sealing o-ring and also cause a leak. Make sure the female QD is opened up (by pushing in the metal tab on the side), line the male QD up straight, and push straight in until it clicks and the QD's seal together.

If you're careful, the o-rings will last just fine.

Ken
Pacific NorthWet
'13 Dark Graphite Metallic K16GTLD, 24K miles and counting...
'09 Magnesium Beige Metallic K13GT, 60K miles miles and counting...
'02 Mauve Metallic K12LTC, 106K miles and sold
BMWLT#145, IBA# 366, MOA# 111996, SCMA# 24032

All lower 48 states plus Alaska on the K13GT in two weeks . . .

Some people see the gas tank as half empty. Some see it as half full. All I care is that I know where the next tankful is coming from...
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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old Aug 16th, 2013, 9:15 am Thread Starter
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Thanks guys (especially you Meese). I just figured my 16k service is coming up and *if* the QDs were a potential issue I might as well swap them then...

Jeff

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Jeff Guntert - Schenectady, NY
2008 K1200GT
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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old Aug 16th, 2013, 12:42 pm
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If you're pulling the tank anyway, go ahead and do it.

Ken
Pacific NorthWet
'13 Dark Graphite Metallic K16GTLD, 24K miles and counting...
'09 Magnesium Beige Metallic K13GT, 60K miles miles and counting...
'02 Mauve Metallic K12LTC, 106K miles and sold
BMWLT#145, IBA# 366, MOA# 111996, SCMA# 24032

All lower 48 states plus Alaska on the K13GT in two weeks . . .

Some people see the gas tank as half empty. Some see it as half full. All I care is that I know where the next tankful is coming from...
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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old Aug 18th, 2013, 8:56 pm
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They fail on the slant 4
went for a ride today smelled gas, thought it was the suburban next to me.
next stop sign nobody around but me, smelled gas.
looked down smoke coming up from low on the bike.

'07 K1200GT Crystal Gray Metalic
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old Aug 19th, 2013, 9:13 am
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Unless you have inspected things you don't really know what is leaking yet, could be the disconnects, could be a cracked mounting boss on the fuel pump (common problem), or could be something else.
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old Aug 24th, 2013, 5:10 pm
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It was the cracked mounting boss on the fuel pump.

Clamp, metal fittings, and a new Loctite epoxy designed for plastics. Have used the epoxy to repair other plastic parts and very satisfied with it.

Think I will register the leak as a NHSTA complaint.

'07 K1200GT Crystal Gray Metalic
'00 Ducati 900 Monster
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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old Sep 16th, 2013, 1:43 am
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Brass aftermarket quick disconnect replacement

Just finished removing and reinstalling the tank on my 2006 K1200S. I needed to pull the tank out so I could flush the brake fluid from the ABS Servo. (See my other post about this process and my thoughts.)

Removing and reinstalling the tank was fairly straight forward and I had no problems with it until I tried to reconnect the fuel line. Then I learned that there is a difference between Quick Disconnect and Quick Connect.

When I removed the tank I pushed the release on the quick disconnect and removed it from the plug as straight as possible from the fuel pump plate and wrapped it in a shop towel to further protect it.

I had A LOT of problems reconnecting the Quick Disconnect. The o-ring would not seal. I even used saliva on the o-ring to lube it enough so that it can slide in without binding. So I went to BMW to get new O-rings. The new o-ring would not seal either. I then called BMW and they told me that there is an aftermarket brass replacement part to replace the plastic/nylon original quick disconnect part. Fortunately BMW had 20 of them in stock!! I guess BMW has a lot of problems reinstalling the fuel line too if it had 20 in stock.

The Part Number for the aftermarket brass replacement is LCD23004. Price in California was 16.66 plus tax (the price itself says aftermarket. If it were a BMW part it would have cost $125)

I cut off the original fuel line clamp, removed the original plastic quick disconnect and replaced it with the brass aftermarket part. Voila. No more fuel leak. Best $16.66 I have ever spent.
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