Remove tank??? - K-Bikes.com - Excellence in Motion
 
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post #1 of 4 (permalink) Old Sep 13th, 2013, 10:55 am Thread Starter
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Remove tank???

I want to do the Charcoal cannister by-pass per Ken's instructions

http://www.k-bikes.com/forums/showth...t=26509&page=2

but after removing the left fairing its obvious one can only get there through the top requiring removal of the tank.

So can anyone walk me through this with pics if possible. I'll give it a go but really don't want to get too difficult with it.

Thanks

Mike
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post #2 of 4 (permalink) Old Sep 15th, 2013, 3:51 pm
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Fuel Tank removal and fuel line quick disconnect

Just finished removing and reinstalling the tank on my 2006 K1200S. I needed to pull the tank out so I could flush the brake fluid from the ABS Servo. (See my other post about this process and my thoughts.)

Removing and reinstalling the tank is fairly straight forward and I had no problems with it until I tried to reconnect the fuel line. Then I learned that there is a difference between Quick Disconnect and Quick Connect.

First I recommend making sure the tank is as close to empty as possible. No sense on trying to balance an additional 30 pound of fuel tank just because of the weight of the five gallons of fuel.

I also recommend that you disconnect and remove the battery. I also recommend that anytime you work with fuel that you keep a fire extinguisher handy and do the work in a location that wont burn down your house if everything goes wrong.

To remove the tank simply remove the two mounting posts that hold the front part of the Drivers seats. There is one Allen bolt that holds each of the seat mounting posts in place.

The tank the slides up and back. Once you get enough clearance, you will see the fuel pump plate on the bottom forward part of the tank. There is not a lot of extra length on the fuel line and you need to squeeze your hand in between the battery tray and the partially removed fuel tank to push the release on the quick disconnect. This quick disconnect is the weak link in the system. Remove it from the plug as straight as possible to avoid any (as in ANY) damage to the quick disconnect as possible. Wrap it in a shop towel when you can to further protect it.

You will see that the locking mechanism on the quick disconnect on the fuel pump plate locks into the OPEN position. Later when you reinstall the quick disconnect the lock is release when it is inserted in to the fuel pump plate, locking the quick disconnect back into place.

Then use two screwdrivers to remove the electrical connectors (one to hold the tab of the locking mechanism and one to pry up the connector).

Finally remove the slip on fuel line. The tank will then slide back and off the bike.

Installation is the reverse. I though had A LOT of problems reconnecting the Quick Disconnect. The o-ring would not seal, so I went to BMW to get new O-rings. The new o-ring would not seal either. I then called BMW and they told me that there is an aftermarket brass replacement part to replace the plastic/nylon original quick disconnect part. Fortunately BMW had 20 of them in stock!! I guess BMW has a lot of problems reinstalling the fuel line too if it has 20 in stock.

The Part Number for the aftermarket brass replacement is LCD23004. Price in California was 16.66 plus tax (the price itself says aftermarket. If it were a BMW part it would have cost $125)

I cut off the original fuel line clamp, removed the original plastic quick disconnect and replaced it with the brass aftermarket part. Voila. No more fuel leak. Best $16.66 I have ever spent.

Before you insert the quick disconnect back into the fuel pump plate, I suggest that you make sure that the release for the quick disconnect is locked into the open position so that the quick disconnect can simply slide into the recess. I spat on the o-ring to lube it enough so that it can slide in without binding. Make sure it slides in as straight as possible. Once the quick disconnect slides in far enough, it will push the release on the fuel pump plate and cause the lock to pop back into place thereby holding the fuel line back in place.

I HIGHY RECOMMEND that once you reinstall the fuel tank and BEFORE you bolt it down and reattach panels, that you turn the key on to run the fuel pump and check for leaks at the quick disconnect. Then start the motor and recheck for leaks.

Hope this helps.
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post #3 of 4 (permalink) Old Sep 17th, 2013, 11:31 am Thread Starter
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Thanks for the write up.

It will be a while before I actually get to it.

silly question but I'm assuming that when I disconnect the "quick disconnect" some sort of valve will prevent fuel from flooding out?

Thanks.
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post #4 of 4 (permalink) Old Sep 17th, 2013, 12:09 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kbmwrs
Silly question but I'm assuming that when I disconnect the "quick disconnect" some sort of valve will prevent fuel from flooding out?
Yes, both the male and female QD's have flow shutoff valves built in.

Ken
Pacific NorthWet
'13 Dark Graphite Metallic K16GTLD, 24K miles and counting...
'09 Magnesium Beige Metallic K13GT, 60K miles miles and counting...
'02 Mauve Metallic K12LTC, 106K miles and sold
BMWLT#145, IBA# 366, MOA# 111996, SCMA# 24032

All lower 48 states plus Alaska on the K13GT in two weeks . . .

Some people see the gas tank as half empty. Some see it as half full. All I care is that I know where the next tankful is coming from...
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