Valve checking and possibly adjustment - K-Bikes.com - Excellence in Motion
 
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post #1 of 6 (permalink) Old Jan 16th, 2014, 10:16 am Thread Starter
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Location: Basswood ridge, NB, Canada
Posts: 25
Valve checking and possibly adjustment

I have an 07,Gt with 33000miles on it , the cam chain and all have been done, now I would like to check the valves and adjust if required and change plugs and possibly add a jump guard. The bike has an aftermarket exhaust and a K&E cone air filter and does not work well after a highway run and in town runs rough, was thinking about a power commander or somthing but was wondering if a dyno tune would help. I would like to know what vacuum pump I will need to replace the coolant and if I need any other tools for this job?/ Can anyone advise me . Thanks Mike
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post #2 of 6 (permalink) Old Jan 16th, 2014, 10:42 am
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Location: New York, NY, USA
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The erratic idle may be related to an airbox problem. It heats up and swells and some plastic parts jam in the idle control valve. You may need to replace the airbox, or get your dealer to do it. I am wrestling with the same issue. There is also a software update from the dealer that addresses this. You may need that too. There was a service bulletin that addressed this issue way back in 2007. Good luck getting your dealer to handle that.

Once you fix that, you can explore the wonderful world of fueling issues and dyno tuning with power commanders and gizmos that enrich your mixture and life.

2008 K1200GT, Custom Paint, Vivid Black, Aeroflow WS & Aeroguards, Givi E52 Maxia Topcase w/AdMore Lighting, Zumo 660, Suburban Footpeg Lowering, Sargent Seat

2009 R1200GS Adventure, Magnesium Grey/Black, Adventure Cases, Zumo 660, Touratech Unobtanium Accessories

1974 Norton Commando 850 Soon to be a restoration project

Last edited by lhendrick; Jan 16th, 2014 at 10:57 am.
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post #3 of 6 (permalink) Old Jan 16th, 2014, 6:16 pm
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Location: Morgan Hill, CA, USA
Posts: 586
Slow down guys.

Do the following and see what you think. It should take care of the hesitation/bucking/dieing problems.

1. BB Metal QRs - There was a small crack in the plastic where the male end goes into the tank. Installed the calmped around the female side on the tank. I installed the metal QRs, used some teflon tape on the pipe threads.
2. Booster Plug
3. Removed stepper solenoid
4. Capped off charcoal canister
5. Replaced O2 sensor

Stepper Motor Relocation
http://www.k-bikes.com/forums/showthread.php?t=28569


O2 Sensor replacement
http://www.k-bikes.com/forums/showthread.php?t=28553


Charcoal Canister by-pass
http://www.k-bikes.com/forums/showthread.php?t=28522


Fuel Tank Quick Disconnects
http://www.k-bikes.com/forums/showthread.php?t=28530


Booster Plug Install
http://www.k-bikes.com/forums/showthread.php?t=28514
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post #4 of 6 (permalink) Old Jan 16th, 2014, 6:45 pm
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Location: Oxnard, CA, USA
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Replacing the plastic male quick disconnect with the identical metal version is a good idea. There are posts here that give part numbers and describe the procedure.

There haven't been any problems with the plastic female fuel quick disconnect, except over-tightening of the tapered pipe threads causing some small cracks to appear in the fuel pump plate.

There is an NHTSA Recall Campaign on the fuel pump plate. Dealers will inspect the plate and replace if cracks are found, or add a safety clamp if no cracks are found. This is quite recent, so dealers are still gearing up for the program.

The rest of kbmwrs's advice is spot on, although I didn't see any real advanatge to removing the stepper motor.

NHTSA Campaign # 13V617000
Potential Vehicles Affected: 50,184
Expected Recall Start Date: February 2014




Ken
Pacific NorthWet
'13 Dark Graphite Metallic K16GTLD, 24K miles and counting...
'09 Magnesium Beige Metallic K13GT, 60K miles miles and counting...
'02 Mauve Metallic K12LTC, 106K miles and sold
BMWLT#145, IBA# 366, MOA# 111996, SCMA# 24032

All lower 48 states plus Alaska on the K13GT in two weeks . . .

Some people see the gas tank as half empty. Some see it as half full. All I care is that I know where the next tankful is coming from...
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post #5 of 6 (permalink) Old Jan 16th, 2014, 7:01 pm
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I'm not sure how any of this addresses the OP's problem of bucking bronco like symptoms that are known (and even admitted to in a service bulletin) to BMW, unless of course the OP has the updated airbox and software.

Is it your suggestion that doing all this is to address that problem, or are these just offered as good housekeeping for any KGT



Quote:
Originally Posted by kbmwrs
Slow down guys.

Do the following and see what you think. It should take care of the hesitation/bucking/dieing problems.

1. BB Metal QRs - There was a small crack in the plastic where the male end goes into the tank. Installed the calmped around the female side on the tank. I installed the metal QRs, used some teflon tape on the pipe threads.
2. Booster Plug
3. Removed stepper solenoid
4. Capped off charcoal canister
5. Replaced O2 sensor

Stepper Motor Relocation
http://www.k-bikes.com/forums/showthread.php?t=28569


O2 Sensor replacement
http://www.k-bikes.com/forums/showthread.php?t=28553


Charcoal Canister by-pass
http://www.k-bikes.com/forums/showthread.php?t=28522


Fuel Tank Quick Disconnects
http://www.k-bikes.com/forums/showthread.php?t=28530


Booster Plug Install
http://www.k-bikes.com/forums/showthread.php?t=28514

2008 K1200GT, Custom Paint, Vivid Black, Aeroflow WS & Aeroguards, Givi E52 Maxia Topcase w/AdMore Lighting, Zumo 660, Suburban Footpeg Lowering, Sargent Seat

2009 R1200GS Adventure, Magnesium Grey/Black, Adventure Cases, Zumo 660, Touratech Unobtanium Accessories

1974 Norton Commando 850 Soon to be a restoration project
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post #6 of 6 (permalink) Old Jan 17th, 2014, 10:40 am
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Location: Morgan Hill, CA, USA
Posts: 586
All I can say is that upon reading up on these changes (prior to my How To series) they said that the bucking would stop.

My bike now has wow power and is very smooth. No more bucking.

So yes it addresses his problem without going into the engine.
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