Shaft Seal Replacement in final drive - K-Bikes.com - Excellence in Motion
 
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post #1 of 6 (permalink) Old Apr 16th, 2014, 9:13 pm Thread Starter
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Shaft Seal Replacement in final drive

A few weeks ago I posted that I had changed the fluid in my 2010 K1300GT final drive. The drained fluid was a milky brownish color. Fast forward to this past weekend. I went for a ride up in the mountains with some friends. Did about 250 miles of twisties, got home parked the bike and went to bed. Next morning I got the itch to do it again. Walked into the garage and noticed black "stripes" on my rear wheel.

Did some research and decided I was going to change the seal. Long story short, pretty easy job. After you remove the cover and the retaining ring, you drill two small holes in the old seal 180 degrees apart, screw in a few wood screws and then use a hammer and piece of wood to pry it out.

The only trick is to not drill too deep, the bearing sits about 1/4-5/16" inch behind the seal. Oh yeah, the seal has a metal insert, when I first saw metal flakes, my language filter became very ineffective.
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post #2 of 6 (permalink) Old Apr 23rd, 2014, 4:19 am
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Yikes, Does that mean you had to order more parts?

2009 K13GT (new to me in 2013)
2011 R1200GSA yellow beast
2005 KLE500 (Hong Kong)
2012 S1000RR (sold for K13GT)
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post #3 of 6 (permalink) Old Apr 23rd, 2014, 8:55 pm
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Is this on the outside of the FD (where the black plastic ring rotates) or on the inside where the wheel mounts?

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post #4 of 6 (permalink) Old Apr 23rd, 2014, 10:20 pm Thread Starter
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On the side with the black plastic ring.
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post #5 of 6 (permalink) Old Apr 23rd, 2014, 10:22 pm Thread Starter
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No new parts needed. I didn't realize that the seals have a metal ring inside the rubber. When I saw the metal flakes during the drilling process I thought that I had gone to far and hit the bearing. I had a small heart attack.
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post #6 of 6 (permalink) Old Apr 24th, 2014, 12:07 am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by moymurfs
Is this on the outside of the FD (where the black plastic ring rotates) or on the inside where the wheel mounts?
It's the smaller outer seal under the black plastic ring.

I had the same seal leak on my K1300GT (just a week or so before the IBR) which caused me quite a bit of concern at the time. A trusted BMW mechanic replaced the seal, and said he'd seen several RT-P Authority bikes with similar issues.

I watched him pull the old seal and it was pretty easy. Like dkjkwood said, remove the black plastic seal cover, drill some small holes (not to deep), then put a screw into the holes so you have something to grab onto and pull it out. The new seal goes in using a Special BMW Seal Driver Tool which pushes the seal in cleanly and uniformly, and not too deep. Then push the plastic cover ring back on. It took maybe 10 minutes total.

After watching all of this, I made my own seal driver tool based on the official BMW tool's dimensions and carried a new seal with me on the IBR, but I never needed it. At least it was a lot smaller and lighter than carrying a whole final drive, which I have done, along with all the tools needed for a field swap . . .

Ken
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'13 Dark Graphite Metallic K16GTLD, 24K miles and counting...
'09 Magnesium Beige Metallic K13GT, 60K miles miles and counting...
'02 Mauve Metallic K12LTC, 106K miles and sold
BMWLT#145, IBA# 366, MOA# 111996, SCMA# 24032

All lower 48 states plus Alaska on the K13GT in two weeks . . .

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Last edited by Meese; Apr 24th, 2014 at 12:16 am.
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