Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Cooranbong, New South Wales, Australia
Brake sensor cheat
Logical idea but in Australia (probably different in the USA in this context) our insurance/traffic laws people tend to frown on original engineering alterations unless the alterations are certified and I've heard that bypassing the manufacturer's brake sensor simply to 'turn it off' to fit cheaper pads is something they won't accept. It can, apparently, also have legal consequences in the event of any accident subsequent to selling the bike or where there's a claim involved (doesn't even have to be brake related - any claim) unless you have already informed your insurer of the alteration in which case the insurance company will likely not issue the cover, retract your existing cover or charge you an excess big enough to fit 747 brakes to make the policy amendment.
Thus rather than take the risk, I fitted genuine pads just to keep the sensor system intact which mean't of course, I couldn't retain, or need, the old sensor. For me, the goal was to temporarily bypass the system to avoid going to a dealer just to switch the darn thing on.
Understandably, I did consider removing the insulator block and folding it back and for those owners looking to fit cheaper pads, it's probably the easiest option. In the USA, CL brake pads are $33 per side for the front v $90 for BMW - my the genuine Beemer front pads in Oz were $143 (sensored right pad set) plus $108 for the left).
The old pad was seriously worn and dirty (discouraging a detailed inspection) but it looked as though the sensor wire actually passed through the steel backplate which would have mean't cutting the wire irrespective thus making removal of the insulator block somewhat pointless. On closer inspection, the wire and insulator can be removed from the backplate but it is necessary to cut the shoulders off the insulator to do it (with careful use with a Dremel or similar) while the pad hangs out of the harness. As even a new connector block can't easily be refitted to the backplate later (no shoulders) I reckon it's easier to pull up the sensor wire sleeve and use mini alligator clips to make a bridge wire anywhere before the sensor (in this case it's not necessary to bridge before the connector block). Simply bare the wires (avoiding any earthing at all times) and remake the circuit loop anywhere in front of the sensor itself with a blob of solder joining the two wires, cut off the sensor, remove the bridge, and insulate as required. Takes about 20 minutes.
Last edited by Quickie; Jan 5th, 2015 at 9:18 am.