How to reset electronic fuse to fuel pump? - K-Bikes.com - Excellence in Motion
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post #1 of 15 (permalink) Old May 14th, 2015, 9:48 pm Thread Starter
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Location: Pahoa, HI, USA
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How to reset electronic fuse to fuel pump?

Hi All,

I just bought a 2009 K1300 GT from a guy who couldn't get it to run after being in storage for a year. After reading a few of the threads on this forum, I was able to deduce that it was a problem with the fuel pump or controller or electronic fuse.

From there, I've isolated it to the fuel pump -- applied 12V and it doesnt run. (FYI, I tried swapping the leads to the pump as someone on this forum did to free a stuck pump after a long storage, but it didnt work.)

So, I'll put a new pump in....but then how do I reset the electronic fuse? There is no voltage on the +12 v of the can bus connector to the pump controller so I'm guessing the electronic fuse is disabled. I don't have a complete picture of how this all works but I'm hoping there's a way I can fix it without buying the gs-911 tool.

Any pointers or explaination how the electronic fuse system works would be greatly appreciated.

Also interested if there's anything else I should do to this bike while I have it apart. I see some references to the fuel line quick disconnects being replaced....is this important? Is there anything else critical to do before I get this back on the road

Thanks!
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post #2 of 15 (permalink) Old May 15th, 2015, 6:05 am
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First of all check with your dealer there is a fuel pump flange recall, there are a number of recalls the latest being the rear wheel carrier flange, all of course free to you, your local BMW dealer will be able to tell you which ones have been done.
On the fuel pump flange recall the flange can crack and lead to fuel leaks and there is a band that they use to secure it, but if the cracks are deemed bad enough you will get a brand new fuel pump as I did, but be prepared like anything with BMW its not a cheap part if you have to buy one.
It could be the fuel pump controller and I believe this can be by-passed ?
This is how its done on an RT
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7c_30Nn0BWE

Other things you can do is make sure the flashing brake failure light goes out when you hit 5 miles an hour, if it stays on ( solid red ) it could mean the ABS module needs fixing or replacing.
Get the bike on the centre stand and rotate the rear wheel if it appears rough it is a sign of final drive bearings on their way out, also rock the back wheel with you hands at 12 o'clock and half past then at quarter past and quarter to, if you feel any play again the bearing is worn and you will need a final drive rebuild.
Check for ESA shock leaks.
I also believe there is a recall for the switch gear on K1300GT,s...I may be wrong but my mate certainly just had his replaced ( the new ones are made by Nokia )
You may want to get hold of a GS911 ( diagnostic tool ) and see what faults come up and see if it something other than the fuel pump ?
But if it does come up with fault code 10443 fuse activated to electric pump do not clear the fault code and take it to a dealer.

These are a few of the well known faults that seem to rear their ugly head quite commonly , but in reality you have a super bike there and I am sure it s nothing too serious to get it running again.

Last edited by Bigmc; May 15th, 2015 at 6:20 am.
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post #3 of 15 (permalink) Old May 15th, 2015, 12:53 pm Thread Starter
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Thank you Bigmc,

Fortunately I live on the Big Island of Hawaii, but that means there is no dealer or authorized service center to do the re-calls or reset any faults. I've called the two nearest service centers and neither would send me any parts from any of the 4 recalls on my bike to replace on my own.

Is there a way I can reset the fuel pump electronic fuse on my own? On a few forums I read that you turn on the key, cycle the throttle 3 times, then turn the key off. But other posts said that was only to calibrate the throttle position sensor or something like that. I can give it all a try when I get my new fuel pump but would to know the proper procedure to clear the fuse definitively.

Maybe I just need to get the gs-911 tool but I'm wanting to hear about alternatives before I make the call to spend the $.

Aloha

-J
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post #4 of 15 (permalink) Old May 15th, 2015, 5:25 pm
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Hi Jacob,

I am not an expert, so please take this with a grain of salt. I want to help, so here are my thoughts, as feeble as they may be:

It is my understanding that there is no manual (or computer controlled) reset mechanism for any of the electrical circuits. When a fault is detected, the Canbus disables electrical current in the affected circuit. When the fault is not detected, it allows current to flow in the circuit. There is no switch or action that you can take that will force the Canbus to switch the current back on, other than determining why the system believes there is a fault and fixing it.

The Canbus can be very fussy. It will cut off current when the load is different than what it expects - either too high or too low. Various owners have tried adding accessories to certain circuits (say, the high beam light) - the load increased enough to trigger the Canbus to cut off current. In almost all cases, you must use very low current accessories (e.g., LED), or use a low power relay to isolate the accessory from the associated Canbus circuit (basically - stay under the "trigger" limit).

If you replace the fuel pump with a good one, then the current should flow. It would be my guess that if you are not seeing voltage in the fuel pump wire, then the Canbus could be cutting off the circuit because it detected an abnormal load. That seems reasonable considering that you wrote that fuel pump is frozen, and I imagine that a frozen fuel pump presents a very different electrical load to the Canbus. Once you replace the fuel pump with a good one that presents a normal load to the Canbus, then the Canbus will allow current to flow on its own. No "reset" is required.

- - - - -

The "cycle the throttle 3 times" reset calibrates the computer to know where the "no throttle" and "full throttle" positions are. The user manual says only that the "engine management system registers the throttle-valve position." I remember discussions that it also resets the computer to re-learn how you ride, so that it maps and adjusts the fuel flow according to your riding style. I always wondered whether that is a myth or not, but there are a lot of people who believe it is true. I believe that it is a myth. The salesperson told me about it when I was buying the bike, but he also told me that my K1200GT was the most robust and reliable motorcycle BMW ever made. ;-)

- - - - -

Over time, the ethanol-added fuel we use makes the crummy plastic fuel-line quick disconnects brittle and prone to failure or leakage. That's why people switched to the nice brass fittings. Many people replaced only the hose side fitting, because others had cracked the tank side by tightening it too much. If you replace both sides, be very careful!

- - - - -

You asked about what else you could do while the bike is apart. Here are a few ideas:

Add whatever wiring you need for farkles:
* Fuse block?
* GPS wiring? (Will the GPS be mounted above the dash or below it?)
* Loud accessory horn (which requires a relay)?
* Extra (non-Canbus) Powerlet outlet wired directly to the battery? (Goes in the punch-out next to the lousy 5A or less Canbus-protected Powerlet outlet that came with the bike.)
* Wiring for a portable air compressor?
* Extra rear lighting, such as bright flashing LED brake lights?
* Extra forward lighting, for visibility or for riding rural roads at night?
* Stereo or CB?

* Wiring and controls for a heated jacket liner and other heated gear. (Ha! Ha!)
* Auxiliary fuel tank?

Other maintenance and repairs:
* Final drive oil change?
* Lube splines? (Does anyone lube the front splines of the drive shaft? I want to, but am afraid that I won't be able to get it back in if it falls out.)
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post #5 of 15 (permalink) Old May 15th, 2015, 8:03 pm Thread Starter
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Awesome, Thanks Magna, very helpful!

I'll put the pump and quick disconnect in and see how it goes.

-Jacob
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post #6 of 15 (permalink) Old May 17th, 2015, 12:28 am Thread Starter
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OK, I fixed the fuel pump.

It was frozen and drawing over 10A which made sense why the electronic fuse would have been tripped. I connected it directly to the battery and reversed the leads back and forth 6 or 7 times and it started to move. Then started to run freely....so it appears to be working.

I reinstalled it but fuel pump circuit still doesn't seem to be activated.

-I connected the fuel pump to the battery and the bike ran great.
-I connected the fuel pump to the fuel pump controller and the pump didn't turn on at all.
-I rbypassed the controller connecting the pump to the 12V and Ground leads from the CAN bus cable going to the controller and it didn't run.

This tells me that the fuel pump circuit still isn't activated. The controller may or may not be bad at this point, I cant tell till I get the circuit to it activated.

All this brings me back to my original question, how to get a circuit activated after it has been shut down.

Any leads?

Thanks in advance.

-Jacob
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post #7 of 15 (permalink) Old May 17th, 2015, 3:40 am
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Could you not call a mainland BMW dealer and explain that you are in Hawaii and ask them their advice, I am sure someone on here can reccomend a "good" mainland dealer ?
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post #8 of 15 (permalink) Old May 17th, 2015, 10:11 pm
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I stand by my statement regarding the Canbus - there is no magic reset. You have to figure out why it does not supply power to the pump:

1. The ECU (computer) thinks there is a fault and is refusing to supply power. The question is where is the fault?

2. The cable between the Canbus connection and the water pump is damaged. Is there a way to check whether there is voltage at the Canbus side of the line?

3. The ECU (computer) is damaged. I find this hard to believe if everything else seems to be working.

My bet is on bad wire or bad fuel pump.

- - - - -

If you are a member of BMWMOA, consider looking for others on your island who are listed in the BMWMOA Anonymous book. Perhaps one of them can help.

- - - - -

BigMC suggested calling a dealer on the mainland for advice. I suggest Irv Seaver in Orange County or San Diego BMW Motorcycles.

You might also consider calling Ted Porter of Beemershop. Ted is friendly and very knowledgeable about BMW motorcycles. Beemershop sells the GS-911s in the US. He should be able to tell you whether a GS-911 can answer the question (about why no power to the fuel pump) or not.

I do not know whether anyone rents GS-911s, but it would be rude to ask Ted about that, since his company sells them.
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post #9 of 15 (permalink) Old May 22nd, 2015, 11:00 pm Thread Starter
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Went for a short cruise around the block today for the first time on my newly purchased K1300! Thank you all for your replies and private messages.

I tried disconnecting the battery for 30 minutes than over night but that didn't reset the electronic fuse.

I tried the reset sequence with ignition key and throttle after disconnecting the battery and that did not reset the electronic fuse.

I wired the fuel pump directly to the battery through a circuit breaker and took a little cruise turning the fuel pump on and off periodically to maintain pressure. Guess what....that reset the electronic fuse to the fuel pump circuit for a while! It remained active for 4-5 times turning the ignition on and off then was disabled again (probably detecting fuel pump absent and then shutting down the circuit for under current situation)

So I fired up the bike again with the pump wired to the battery to reset the circut, then hooked up the fuel pump regulator and fuel pump to the re-activated circuit and now it all works just fine.

Stoked its working, and I'd stll love to know an easier way to reset the electronic fuse that doesnt involve running the motor. Its not necessary at this point but it would be nice to know for future issues.

Now to fix the other problems on this bike that has been in storage outside for over a year. It seems like half of the switches on the left handle bar are not working. I know there's a recall for this but like I said there's no BMW service center on my island, and no ferry to take it to another island.

Thanks again for the support.

-Jacob
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post #10 of 15 (permalink) Old May 23rd, 2015, 6:57 am
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I suggest that the problematic fuel pump was presenting an abnormal load to the Canbus. My guess is that if you had bought a replacement fuel pump, it would have presented a normal load as soon as you installed it, and the Canbus would not have been an issue. By running the fuel pump from the battery to bypass the Canbus, you worked out whatever was causing the fuel pump to present an abnormal load. Now it presents a normal load all the time, and so the Canbus is letting it run. In other words, it does not pay to think in terms of "reset the Canbus". Instead, what you did was "fix the fuel pump".

Regarding the switch set and other recalled items, I suggest that you contact BMW North America customer service and explain your situation. They are not always as helpful as you wish, but it does not hurt to try. Perhaps they can arrange for you to work with a dealer who can ship recall parts to you. They must have some way of helping out people who are in the middle of nowhere riding on R1200GS "adventures". Good luck there. I don't think it will work, but give it a try.

Another popular source for parts is Beemer Boneyard. Another one is eBay, although you have to be careful there.

Good luck!
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