Originally Posted by jcmaun
Does anyone know what tools are needed to do routine maintenance on a K1300GT? I would like to purchase just the necessary 3/8 & 1/4 torx & hex sockets. I know I need a T25 & T45 and a 8mm hex, but what else?
Can you be more descriptive about what "routine maintenance" means?
I carry a binder with various procedures from the RepROM (BMW repair manual). I write down the tools that I use when I follow a procedure. Without knowing what you want to do, it is hard to recommend tools. Here are a few suggestions, from memory and my notes:
* BMW RepROM DVD. Please please buy the real, latest version from a BMW motorcycle dealer, not those bloodsucking scum on the Internet who will sell you an old, obsolete, illegal copy. You will need a Windows computer to use it (or run a Windows virtual machine on your Mac).
* 3/8 inch torque wrench.
* Additional Torx beyond the T-25 and T-45 that you mentioned:
+ T-25 with a long shaft (or use extender) - to take off side panels. Some screws are tricky to reach.
+ T-30 (brake pads).
+ T-50 (rear wheel, maybe final drive oil change depending on how you do it)
* Optimol (Optimoly) TA paste (muffler ball joint for rear wheel remove/install, axle for front wheel remove/install, drive shaft splines). One tin will last longer than your bike. As far as anyone knows, here is the only source where ordinary riders (US and Canada) can get it:
* 10 mm open end wrench (shifter adjust), maybe 16 mm box end wrench (depending on how you do the final drive oil change).
* 22 mm hex/Allen (remove/install front axle)
For valve clearance checks and changing spark plugs (you must remove the radiator!):
* Feeler gauge set.
* Vacuum radiator tester and filler.
If you want to do valve checks (every 18,000 miles) and change spark plugs, then you will need to remove and refill the radiator. You will need a vacuum filler. Some people make home-brew vacuum fillers, others buy a tool. There are many types. I have a MityVac 4535, which requires an air compressor with a decent flow rate. You will also need simple hose clamps to close the rubber hoses for the vacuum check/fill.
* Ignition coil remover.
To get at the spark plugs, you must first remove the ignition coils. Very carefully. The problem is to avoid breaking the ignition coils when you remove them. Some people get away with a screwdriver or using their teeth or whatever, but an ignition coil remover from Marc Parnes is worth the investment.
* Spark plug removal/insertion tool:
You need a special 16mm thin walled spark plug socket to remove and insert the spark plugs. The spark plugs sit at the bottom of narrow, tapering tubes. The gap between the edge of the "nut" part of the spark plug and the tube wall is very thin. Most 16mm sockets will bump into the tapered wall before they can get a grip on the spark plug. Furthermore, the rubber interior "grabber" on many spark plug sockets is in the wrong place and won't grab the spark plug on your K1300GT.
BMW sells a spark plug removal tool. The problem is that it is flimsy metal. If the spark plugs are tight, it won't get enough grip to loosen the spark plug. See the discussion (and post #4) in this thread:
Don't forget the consumables: gaskets, brake pads, oil, oil filter, air filter, spark plugs, etc.
I hope this helps.
Let us know what maintenance you want to do.
P.S. It is not absolutely essential, but I seem to use the Star-Pro pivot head torx set a lot. I carry the T-25 in the glove box all the time. It simplifies side panel removal to get those few "recessed" screws, for example. I dunno, I just like it.