2009 with 37K miles or 2010 with 52K miles? Quality of bike? - K-Bikes.com - Excellence in Motion
 
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old Sep 17th, 2016, 5:37 pm Thread Starter
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2009 with 37K miles or 2010 with 52K miles? Quality of bike?

Hi,

Looking to buy K1300GT right now and wanted to get your input.

2010 Model with 52K miles
2009 Model with 37K miles

The price on 2010 model is cheaper. They both seem to be in good condition.

Q1: 52K miles on the bike would be any issue on this model?
Q2: How is the quality of this model overall?
Q3: What would be major repair items and cost?

Your input very much appreciated! Love the look of the bike!

Thanks!

Last edited by Aviator_JPN; Sep 17th, 2016 at 5:53 pm.
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old Sep 17th, 2016, 6:05 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aviator_JPN
Hi,

Looking to buy K1300GT right now and wanted to get your input.

2010 Model with 52K miles
2009 Model with 37K miles

The price on 2010 model is cheaper. They both seem to be in good condition.

Q1: 52K miles on the bike would be any issue on this model?
Q2: How is the quality of this model overall?
Q3: What would be major repair items and cost?

Your input very much appreciated! Love the look of the bike!

Thanks!
It depends a lot on the condition of the two bikes and the difference in price, neither of which we can see.

Assuming that they are both in good condition, I would probably choose the 2010. When was the last valve clearance check on each?

KGTs are expensive to own. Parts cost way too much.

Common expensive repairs or replacements:

1. Valve clearance check - every 18,000 miles. You can do it yourself, but you will need a vacuum radiator filler, plus a lot of time. You have to drain and remove the radiator to start. The dealer will charge you many hundreds of dollars to do it - maybe $600-800.
2. ESA shocks - they wear out. My rear started leaking at 40k. They can be rebuilt, or buy far better third-party shocks, but lose the ESA feature.
3. ABS motor - can be rebuilt for a relatively low cost.
4. Final drive - expensive to replace if it fails. They fail more often than they should.

I hope this helps a little.
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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old Sep 17th, 2016, 7:47 pm Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XMagnaRider
It depends a lot on the condition of the two bikes and the difference in price, neither of which we can see.

Assuming that they are both in good condition, I would probably choose the 2010. When was the last valve clearance check on each?

KGTs are expensive to own. Parts cost way too much.

Common expensive repairs or replacements:

1. Valve clearance check - every 18,000 miles. You can do it yourself, but you will need a vacuum radiator filler, plus a lot of time. You have to drain and remove the radiator to start. The dealer will charge you many hundreds of dollars to do it - maybe $600-800.
2. ESA shocks - they wear out. My rear started leaking at 40k. They can be rebuilt, or buy far better third-party shocks, but lose the ESA feature.
3. ABS motor - can be rebuilt for a relatively low cost.
4. Final drive - expensive to replace if it fails. They fail more often than they should.

I hope this helps a little.
Thank you so much for your prompt reply!

It sounds like it's expensive bike to maintain w/o warranty.... I have no info on mx records on both bikes...

How about the engine? It depends on how you ride it but in general, how long does it run for? I heard that boxer engines last very long but same for this engine?

Since I can not test ride the bike and have not ridden one before, I'd like to ask you one more question. How is the acceleration of the bike as compared with R1200GS/RS or Kawasaki ZZR1200 (2004) if you happen to know?

Thanks!
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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old Sep 17th, 2016, 9:22 pm
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Well, you could use the search function... I haven't been on this site long but many of these bikes seem not to accumulate much mileage. My first ride was on a sight unseen 2010, 23,xxx miles already, with my wife from Portland to San Diego, 2500 miles, and the bike ran flawlessly. OTOTH, we got to the dock here and the Optima battery was stone dead despite having been disconnected for shipping. Well we had been warned it was weak any good karma may have been the only thing that kept it alive during the trip.

The choice may partly depend on the use you anticipate, long miles (at which this bike excels) or around town, where its size makes for a slightly less pleasant experience.

Following my honeymoon trip, this K will become mostly a commuter, to work is only 5 miles in crawling traffic. So far it hasn't been that much fun but once things open up... It's a joy.
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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old Sep 18th, 2016, 9:11 am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aviator_JPN
Thank you so much for your prompt reply!

It sounds like it's expensive bike to maintain w/o warranty.... I have no info on mx records on both bikes...

How about the engine? It depends on how you ride it but in general, how long does it run for? I heard that boxer engines last very long but same for this engine?

Since I can not test ride the bike and have not ridden one before, I'd like to ask you one more question. How is the acceleration of the bike as compared with R1200GS/RS or Kawasaki ZZR1200 (2004) if you happen to know?

Thanks!
There are usually no major issues with the engine itself (other than cam chain induced, see next paragraph). It should easily last 100,000 miles or more. I have 55,000 on mine and going. Meese has put over 100,000 miles on two or three different K12/1300GTs (each), and probably the same on K1600GTs.

The primary issue with the engines is the cam chain. If it skips a link, then engine damage (valve and/or piston top) can occur. Make sure that the cam chain guard has been installed (a recall) and the cam chain itself is in good condition. A lot of people replace the automatic cam chain tensioner with a manual one. This is an "interference engine", meaning that the valves extend into the same space as the tops of the pistons. As long as the cam chain is good, they will never touch each other. If the cam chain skips, then you can have serious problems, such as a bent valve.

I wish I could answer the question about acceleration. The K1200GT/K1300GT is very very fast and powerful. My K1200GT is rated at 152 HP and 96 lb/ft of torque. That's a lot. I have ridden the R1200GS and R1200RT. Both are torquey at the start but peter out where the K1200GT / K1300GT just keeps pulling hard. I have never ridden a Kawasaki ZZR1200.

The truth is that I am a very gentle rider. Everyone talks about the incredible acceleration and power of the KGTs, but I don't take much advantage of it. I am not afraid to use it and do on rare occasion - pulling away from overly aggressive drivers at stop lights, the occasional freeway onramp, passing on the open highway, etc. On rare occasions, I start up a freeway onramp, look down a couple seconds later, and say to myself "Holy @#$! I'm going 90!", and back it off. I usually don't bother to downshift out of 6th gear when passing large trucks at 75 or 80 mph (Texas I-10 or I-20 only!). The bike just pulls away fast. If you downshift, hold on!

I bought my K1200GT new in 2007. I bought it for its versatility, which is just what I need. I love that flexibility. I can take off the cases for local riding. I often ride in So Cal with only the top case - splitting lanes is easy. I often take it on long trips across the country for business meetings. It will hold everything I need for a two week trip, including business attire, casual attire, a 17 inch laptop, and much more. It has taken me 1,000 miles in a day many times. It took me from Mexico to Canada in 24 hours, and coast to coast (San Diego to Jacksonville Beach) in 45 hours. I have ridden it in all kinds of weather - from 115 F to below freezing. Sunny to heavy rain - with the right gear, it is no hassle. The electrically adjustable windscreen, heated grips and seat, and faring make a big difference.

The things I don't like about my K1200GT are:

* Cost of ownership - parts and maintenance are unreasonably expensive.
* Lack of a way to attach forward foot pegs. On long rides, I periodically stand on the pegs to stretch my legs.

One additional comment: I would not buy any used motorcycle that I could not inspect and test ride myself. No way.
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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old Sep 18th, 2016, 9:57 pm Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Honolulu
Well, you could use the search function... I haven't been on this site long but many of these bikes seem not to accumulate much mileage. My first ride was on a sight unseen 2010, 23,xxx miles already, with my wife from Portland to San Diego, 2500 miles, and the bike ran flawlessly. OTOTH, we got to the dock here and the Optima battery was stone dead despite having been disconnected for shipping. Well we had been warned it was weak any good karma may have been the only thing that kept it alive during the trip.

The choice may partly depend on the use you anticipate, long miles (at which this bike excels) or around town, where its size makes for a slightly less pleasant experience.

Following my honeymoon trip, this K will become mostly a commuter, to work is only 5 miles in crawling traffic. So far it hasn't been that much fun but once things open up... It's a joy.
Thanks, Honolulu.

Read multiple posts. K13GT seems to be improved a lot over K12GT. Since this is a secondhand bike, it will be a gamble as I don't how the prior owner rode these bikes...

But look forward to getting either one.
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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old Sep 18th, 2016, 10:04 pm Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XMagnaRider
There are usually no major issues with the engine itself (other than cam chain induced, see next paragraph). It should easily last 100,000 miles or more. I have 55,000 on mine and going. Meese has put over 100,000 miles on two or three different K12/1300GTs (each), and probably the same on K1600GTs.

The primary issue with the engines is the cam chain. If it skips a link, then engine damage (valve and/or piston top) can occur. Make sure that the cam chain guard has been installed (a recall) and the cam chain itself is in good condition. A lot of people replace the automatic cam chain tensioner with a manual one. This is an "interference engine", meaning that the valves extend into the same space as the tops of the pistons. As long as the cam chain is good, they will never touch each other. If the cam chain skips, then you can have serious problems, such as a bent valve.

I wish I could answer the question about acceleration. The K1200GT/K1300GT is very very fast and powerful. My K1200GT is rated at 152 HP and 96 lb/ft of torque. That's a lot. I have ridden the R1200GS and R1200RT. Both are torquey at the start but peter out where the K1200GT / K1300GT just keeps pulling hard. I have never ridden a Kawasaki ZZR1200.

The truth is that I am a very gentle rider. Everyone talks about the incredible acceleration and power of the KGTs, but I don't take much advantage of it. I am not afraid to use it and do on rare occasion - pulling away from overly aggressive drivers at stop lights, the occasional freeway onramp, passing on the open highway, etc. On rare occasions, I start up a freeway onramp, look down a couple seconds later, and say to myself "Holy @#$! I'm going 90!", and back it off. I usually don't bother to downshift out of 6th gear when passing large trucks at 75 or 80 mph (Texas I-10 or I-20 only!). The bike just pulls away fast. If you downshift, hold on!

I bought my K1200GT new in 2007. I bought it for its versatility, which is just what I need. I love that flexibility. I can take off the cases for local riding. I often ride in So Cal with only the top case - splitting lanes is easy. I often take it on long trips across the country for business meetings. It will hold everything I need for a two week trip, including business attire, casual attire, a 17 inch laptop, and much more. It has taken me 1,000 miles in a day many times. It took me from Mexico to Canada in 24 hours, and coast to coast (San Diego to Jacksonville Beach) in 45 hours. I have ridden it in all kinds of weather - from 115 F to below freezing. Sunny to heavy rain - with the right gear, it is no hassle. The electrically adjustable windscreen, heated grips and seat, and faring make a big difference.

The things I don't like about my K1200GT are:

* Cost of ownership - parts and maintenance are unreasonably expensive.
* Lack of a way to attach forward foot pegs. On long rides, I periodically stand on the pegs to stretch my legs.

One additional comment: I would not buy any used motorcycle that I could not inspect and test ride myself. No way.
Thanks again for your input. Really appreciate it and helps me a lot to know the bike.
The 2010 bike was acquired via auction, according to the current owner and he does not have the maintenance record. But he gave me the VIN # which I'm not sure if I can get any info out of it but try to find out via my local BMW dealer hoping that you can search the maintenance/repair records via VINs. But not sure if the data is shared among all dealerships and if the prior owner did repairs at BMW shops...
As for a test ride, I try and see if I can convince him to let me ride before making a decision.

As for acceleration, probably I should not do much to avoid any engine damage....
After I get either bike, I plan to have it inspected thoroughly by a local BMW dealer. Do you happen to know how much they charge for an inspection? Hopefully they won't charge me for unnecessary works..

Thanks!
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old Sep 19th, 2016, 10:16 pm Thread Starter
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Today, I saw 2010 model and was able to test it in parking lot. It rode fine and everything seems to be working but not sure on cruise control. I need to take the bike to the highway to test cruise control out.
Paint condition of 2010 is worse than 2009 which has extremely nicer condition but it is more expensive and I did not like the wide seat of 2009. And I can not test 2009.

I will check the history of repairs/recalls on 2010 bike tomorrow at a local BMW dealer using VIN#.

Here is the price of bikes.
2010 Model with 52K miles = $6,000
2009 Model with 37K miles = $7,800

With 1,800 hundreds diff, I thought I could touch up the paints.

But if you know any other deal which is cheaper than above and know that bike is in great condition, please let me know! I would have a seller ship to me.

Thanks!
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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old Sep 25th, 2016, 4:38 pm
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I currently ride a 2009. I have 20K on the odometer. I did not ride for the past year until recently dues to a replaced knee after the winter. It is a fantastic bike and can go like heck. I mostly ride locally with a few trips a year up to Litchfield or the Catskills . I took it down to NC to do the Deals Gap, tail of the dragon etc a few years ago.
Is it expensive? Depends on how you look at it. I have a few warranty repairs ( recalls as mentioned in other posts). Otherwise a biannual oil change and tires every 6 to 8 thousand miles. I am not a hard rider. the engine is rock solid.
I have scratched the side cases in a few fallovers in may garage and in a muddy field. I just touch them up with a colorite paint pen.. I installed aeroguard wind guards and a set of aftermarket riding pegs that i bought on the nest several years ago. The windshield looks almost new, just a few dings. I have an aftermarket seat that i brought over from my previous 2006 1200GT. Many parts are interchangeable. And I put in an Oydessy battery to replace the stock after 3 years. I am replacing the Odyssey as I foolishly left it off the battery tender this past winter and Spring. It ges dead after a week of inactivity.. Oh, and I put on a set of riding lights on the forks and a flashing led tail light, so I can be sen better, during the days as well as nighttime.
Go buy the bike and enjoy!

Larry
Deep Blue 2009 K1300GT
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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old Sep 25th, 2016, 10:59 pm Thread Starter
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Picked up the bike!

Hi,

Thanks for all the input! I picked up the 2010 model after all. It runs great!
What a high tech bike it is! Looking forward to putting lots of miles on the bike!
Thanks again!
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