2006 k1200 gt cam chain tensioner :( - K-Bikes.com - Excellence in Motion
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old Oct 25th, 2017, 3:33 pm Thread Starter
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2006 k1200 gt cam chain tensioner :(

Too noisy ! Need to ............
1 - pick best/cheapest tensioner. Mechanical or hyd?
2 - how to remove R side plastic?
3 - procedure to make tensioner swap?
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old Oct 25th, 2017, 5:56 pm
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Do you have the jump guard installed?

2009 K1300 GT
1984 Kawasaki ZX750-E1 Turbo
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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old Oct 26th, 2017, 10:02 am
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1. No idea
2. Remove 11 small torx screws from perimeter of side plastic and then pull panel out to disengage from " larger "push-on" pins into rubber grommets
3. No idea

If you cannot manage the side plastic removal and replacement then maybe you should NOT do the tensioner yourself.....not trying to be rude, but the consequences of f'ing it up is $$$$$ engine damage if the chain breaks.....

2008 K1200GT, Custom Paint, Vivid Black, Aeroflow WS & Aeroguards, Givi E52 Maxia Topcase w/AdMore Lighting, Zumo 660, Suburban Footpeg Lowering, Sargent Seat

2009 R1200GS Adventure, Magnesium Grey/Black, Adventure Cases, Zumo 660, Touratech Unobtanium Accessories

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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old Oct 26th, 2017, 10:29 am Thread Starter
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I am more concerned about getting the plastic off. I did the cam tensioner thing on my 2006 1200GSA a few years back,
straightforward and on a boxer there are 2 that need replacing - but NO plastic to deal with.
I miss my GSA

11 fasteners?
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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old Oct 26th, 2017, 10:40 am Thread Starter
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yup, chain jumper guard was warrantied @ 34k miles
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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old Oct 26th, 2017, 3:54 pm
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Here's a pic:

See attachment PDF showing typical screw locations. It will download to your computer as a PDF which you can view.

Read the thread, because the pic isn't compete and its for the left panel. It's from this thread: http://www.k-bikes.com/forums/43-k12...-screw-up.html

Mines been off so many times it just jumps off when I come into the garage. Feel your way around the periphery of the side plastic and you will see most of the screws easily. There is one really hidden one at the very front/top point of the bike. It is under the soft rubbery air snorkle that you can displace with you finger while you unscrew it. When you have all the screw out (including the 3 that secure the "glove box") you have to give the panel a good tug straight out to dislodge from the thick plastic pins that press into rubber grommets. Try not to drop the whole thing, it scratches pretty easy.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf Tupperware Hardware GT.pdf (78.5 KB, 84 views)

2008 K1200GT, Custom Paint, Vivid Black, Aeroflow WS & Aeroguards, Givi E52 Maxia Topcase w/AdMore Lighting, Zumo 660, Suburban Footpeg Lowering, Sargent Seat

2009 R1200GS Adventure, Magnesium Grey/Black, Adventure Cases, Zumo 660, Touratech Unobtanium Accessories

1974 Norton Commando 850 Soon to be a restoration project

Last edited by lhendrick; Oct 26th, 2017 at 4:04 pm.
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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old Oct 28th, 2017, 2:36 am
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You basically have four choices for cam chain tensioners.

1) Updated BMW version, part# 11 31 7 717 288 $170.54
For K13 bikes, use part#'s 11 31 7 720 098 $69.86 and 11 31 7 711 271 $85.17

2) APE part# BT1200-PRO $89.95

3) Powerstands part# 09-02001-29 %54.95

4) SCMW $160.00

I have the APE version on my K13GT, but if I was buying one today, I'd probably just go with the Powerstands version and save a few $$.

For a good writeup on how to install the SCMW cam chain tensioner, see this PDF file.

Note that the SCMW version uses the original BMW plunger assembly, whereas the APE and Powerstands versions don't.

To install the APE or Powerstands versions, just follow the last page of the above document, under Adjustments.

And do heed the warnings: INCORRECT INSTALLATION OF A MANUAL CAM CHAIN TENSIONER MAY RESULT IN SEVERE ENGINE DAMAGE. IF YOU ARE NOT CERTAIN HOW TO INSTALL THE CAM CHAIN TENSIONER THEN IT IS ADVISED THAT IT BE INSTALLED BY A SHOP WHO IS FAMILIAR WITH THIS PROCESS.

Honestly, it's not a difficult task, but it's certainly not worth blowing an engine up if you do it wrong...
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Last edited by Meese; Oct 28th, 2017 at 2:52 am.
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old Oct 28th, 2017, 6:39 am
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One problem with removing the side panels on BMW motorcycles is that there are a lot of screws of several different lengths. Keeping track of what goes where is very hard. Here is a hint about taking the side panels off and putting them back on:

MAKE MAPS OF YOUR SIDE PANELS:
1. Get two cardboard box lids. I used the ones that come with 10 reams of paper.
2. Print a nice closeup photo of the right side panel of your motorcycle. I found an image of my motorcycle on the internet and printed it. Zoom in close so the side panel fills the printout.
3. Repeat step 2 for the left side panel of your motorcycle.
4. Tape the two printouts to the tops of the box lids.


USING THE BOX LID MAPS:
* As you remove each screw, push it through the corresponding location in the photo on the box lid. (Use a nail to get the hole started.)
* When you reattach the side panel, use the map to remind you of where each screw belongs.
* Save the box lids for the next time. The maps with the screw hole locations can be used whenever needed.


(Credit: Thanks to Meese, who showed it to me. I still use those original box lids.)
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old Oct 28th, 2017, 11:00 am
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I use an egg carton and label it with the size of the screws for the panels. I've already memorized all of the screw locations after taking the panels off once.

2009 K1300 GT
1984 Kawasaki ZX750-E1 Turbo
1990 Kawasaki ZX600R
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2008 Honda CBR1000 RR - gone

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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old Oct 28th, 2017, 11:26 am Thread Starter
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Meese, thanks for the timely info !
just cancelled my APE part# BT1200-PRO $89.95
and purchase the Powerstands part# 09-02001-29 $54.95
Looking forward to a quiet startup !
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