2008 GT Hot Starting Issue - K-Bikes.com - Excellence in Motion
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old Aug 18th, 2018, 11:03 am Thread Starter
Noob
 
Join Date: Aug 2018
Posts: 11
Exclamation 2008 GT Hot Starting Issue

Hi All,
Iím new to k-bikes but have been around the other forums for a while. I have a Ď08 KGT that I plan to do a 6000 mile trip with next month with an Iron Butt run and experienced a Ďnew to meí issue that iím Trying to reason out so that Iím not stranded somewhere west of here. Any discussion/experience anyone may have to try and figure this out would is much appreciated, Iíll have the plastic off today to do some inspecting and clean up.

Yesterday in Chicago I commuted home from work as I always do. The temp outside wasnít too hot but very humid. I parked in my garage and it sat for about an hour before my wife and I headed out for dinner on it. It wouldn't start right away but eventually I got it running. Here are some bullet points on the event.

#1 Turned the bike over two or three attempts with little to no ignition to the motor.

#2 Turn over was strong from starter and no indication of a weak battery, Iíve had dead batteries before so I know what this sounds like.

#3 On the 4th attempt the motor stuttered like it was going to start, no feedback on instruments at all that anything is wrong.

#4 Since I felt like the motor wasnít receiving fuel or maybe had too much fuel pressurized in the injectors I decided to hit the starter while holding the throttle open and keep the revs around 2000 revolutions. After holding it there for 5-10 seconds I slowly released the throttle and the bike came down to a normal idle. It ran fine after that, we went to dinner and even after dinner the bike started right up.

#5 The sound of the starter/motor was consistent with normal start up, no crunching or grinding heard as if the timing was off. Or was it? I have the chain guard in for the last 5-6 years.

#6 Iíve done a bit of clutch rebuild, with new pack and bearings two winters ago. I was thinking the clutch drag, which has been an issue lately could be the cause but the bike was on itís center stand and the transmission was in neutral with the clutch level released at the time I was trying to start it and again the starter didnít sound bogged down.

I spent a few hours last night and this morning looking through old threads trying to make sense of what condition created this scenario but I havenít come across anything that dsescribes my scenario.

Thoughts or suggestions?
Pmw121 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old Aug 18th, 2018, 7:42 pm
Enthusiast
 
TF1200RT's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2016
Posts: 249
Garage
Two issues with GT's before 2009 - air box and the Supplemental Wiring Harness for hot starts.

2009 K1300 GT
1984 Kawasaki ZX750-E1 Turbo
1990 Kawasaki ZX600R
2005 R1200 RT - gone
2008 Honda CBR1000 RR - gone
TF1200RT is offline  
post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old Aug 19th, 2018, 4:00 pm
Veteran
 
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Anaheim, CA, USA
Posts: 1,394
For some reason, there is a problem with hot starts on KGTs. There is a service bulletin about it. The "Supplemental Wiring Harness" is related to the service bulletin.

For some reason, the battery cables cannot carry sufficient current to the starter, so BMW solved the problem by literally doubling up the electrical cables. The doubled wires now carry sufficient current to start the motorcycle, even when very hot. I do not know whether your local BMW dealer will fix it at no charge like a recall, or if they must roll it in with other work that you pay for. Ask your local dealer.

I assume that BMW fixed this issue on a future motorcycle production run, but I don't know when. Later model K1300? Not until the K1600 came out?
XMagnaRider is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old Aug 19th, 2018, 8:10 pm Thread Starter
Noob
 
Join Date: Aug 2018
Posts: 11
Quote:
Originally Posted by XMagnaRider View Post
For some reason, there is a problem with hot starts on KGTs. There is a service bulletin about it. The "Supplemental Wiring Harness" is related to the service bulletin.

For some reason, the battery cables cannot carry sufficient current to the starter, so BMW solved the problem by literally doubling up the electrical cables. The doubled wires now carry sufficient current to start the motorcycle, even when very hot. I do not know whether your local BMW dealer will fix it at no charge like a recall, or if they must roll it in with other work that you pay for. Ask your local dealer.

I assume that BMW fixed this issue on a future motorcycle production run, but I don't know when. Later model K1300? Not until the K1600 came out?
Thanks for your input, Magna. My bike has been taken up to date on these bulletins as they came out and after 10 years or so riding in hot weather this is the first time iím Experienced this type of issue. I remember before the air box and harness and original gel battery the bike feeling very lethargic when starting but now it almost always fires within the first half crank. Iíve been riding it since then with no issue at all, Iíll chalk this one up to a one off for now.
Pmw121 is offline  
post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old Aug 21st, 2018, 11:47 am
Noob
 
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Raleigh, NC, USA
Posts: 10
A friend had something like this go on. Turned out to be: The carbon cannister that captures fuel and fumes had filled right up, got pressurized and essentially flooded out the bike when it first fired because the control solenoid opened. One part of it was the overflow from the canister was blocked up second part was a just filled tank. It happened total of twice both times he had just fueled up a hot bike and let it sit for about 15 minutes.

My 08GT has had a canisterectomy so it can't happen...Though if I fill it up on the centerstand and then move it to the side stand it will pee a little gas via the O-Flow.
dedmnhd is offline  
post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old Aug 21st, 2018, 7:50 pm Thread Starter
Noob
 
Join Date: Aug 2018
Posts: 11
Ded, thank you! That makes me feel better and is consistent with what I experienced as well but not knowing anything with the canister. Iíve been on a wild goose chase for about a year trying to figure out where the smell is coming from. I did the metal OD swap and thinking that itís something with that, but upon multiple checks with bike running or not I canít find anything there.

I replaced the canister and vent soidioid thinking something with those, not really understanding that I could just remove it all.

I also found a cracked seal between the filler neck and gas cap assembly. I replaced that and now waiting to see if that was the culprit.
Pmw121 is offline  
post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old Aug 27th, 2018, 11:24 pm
Noob
 
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Raleigh, NC, USA
Posts: 10
My pleasure: Though you might want to check the overflow on the canister, it drops down to a point just in front of the centerstand forward hub. It was plugged with asphalt residue and similar Thats what caused the canister to build pressure when heated.

As to Eliminating the Canister: the Why is well done here
though the specific rework is on an oilhead.
dedmnhd is offline  
post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old Sep 2nd, 2018, 5:00 am
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2017
Posts: 67
Wiring harness BMW Part No, 12 41 8 532 735


https://www.k-bikes.com/forums/40-k1...-problems.html
botus is offline  
post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old Sep 2nd, 2018, 9:59 am Thread Starter
Noob
 
Join Date: Aug 2018
Posts: 11
Quote:
Originally Posted by dedmnhd View Post
My pleasure: Though you might want to check the overflow on the canister, it drops down to a point just in front of the centerstand forward hub. It was plugged with asphalt residue and similar Thats what caused the canister to build pressure when heated.

As to Eliminating the Canister: the Why is well done here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H907BjGC0Pc though the specific rework is on an oilhead.
Thanks! I checked all tubing again and everything is free and clear. I inspected the gasket from the fuel cap assembly to the filler tube and it was cracked, severely. If I put my nose up to this area I smell strong fumes but if I smell around the tank by fittings and such I donít smell as strongly. I ordered a new gasket and installed it around the filler tube to fuel cap assembly and alas I seem to not be smelling fuel in the garage. I had it almost empty to do the procedure so I filled it up to top yesterday road it around and this morning still no fumes so fingers crossed this was the issue.

I noticed now that I hear a vacuum sucking sound immediately after I stop the engine, where as before I donít recall this noise, but could have always been there since I where ear plugs most of the time.

Does the bike vacuum shut the tank on power off to create negative pressure so that gasses can expand without leaking out?
Pmw121 is offline  
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the K-Bikes.com - Excellence in Motion forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome