Oil tank removal - K-Bikes.com - Excellence in Motion
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post #1 of 7 (permalink) Old Feb 21st, 2019, 9:58 pm Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Caledon, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 8
Oil tank removal

So I will be replacing the rear shock on my 08GT with a Wilburs unit. ESA has stopped working and having a custom shock is worth the money in my opinion. I read previously that it is a bit easier removing the oil tank to get at the top mounting bolt of the shock instead of removing the rear subframe. Any suggestions, cautions and order of items to be removed or is it fairly straight forward? I don't have the BMW shop manual/dvd and I know there is no other shop manual available. I would rather not go in totally blind and have oil and parts all over the place. Any guidance is appreciated. I used the search function but was unable to come up with specific to this job. Thanks in advance
RickB is offline  
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post #2 of 7 (permalink) Old Feb 23rd, 2019, 4:35 pm
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: New York, NY, USA
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Here's a how-to on shock remove/replace on K1200. It's a K1200S but that chassis is close enough that I was able to do the job using this procedure....good luck. Wilburs rock

You don't really remove the oil tank, just displace it to the side for access.

The how to starts with front shock, rear is a few pages down.

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post #3 of 7 (permalink) Old Feb 24th, 2019, 12:54 am
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Location: bc, , canada
Posts: 178
Very timely. Was thinking about refreshing the rear ESA on my 07 KGT. I am really reluctant to pay a visit to the dealer, its a pain to book, get in get out etc. The pics are great and will be a great help pulling the K apart. If I get this right , there is no need to remove the rear wheel? I dont have a stand so curious about what has to be removed.

07 Kgt
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post #4 of 7 (permalink) Old Mar 3rd, 2019, 2:18 am
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Location: Seattle, WA, USA
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I looked at that post on I bmw that Ihendrick posted the link to. Christ what a bunch of work. I did the shocks on my bare bones '08 1200 S in a couple hours and didn't have to tear off all those parts to do it. I'm only guessing you have to go thru all that work because you are removing the ESA Ride Control shocks with all that valving and elec. connections taking up space and making them harder to get out.

I replaced my stock shocks with Ohlins front and rear. They are sufficiently compact that you can get them in without any other parts removed other then the old shock and the front fairings to do the front shock and I don't think I had to do anything on the rear but remove the seat and pivot the Subframe with everything attached upward to do the exchange.

I've been taking my K-Bike apart and back together again for 8 years now and one thing I've noticed about a Beemer manual is they like to have you remove way more parts to do a given jog then is often necessary.

One thing I would say to anyone intending to go with Ohlins as I did; the upper end of the front Ohlins shock likes to rub the pocket in the frame slightly. I had to clearance the pocket perhaps 50 thou. where the Spring Collar rubbed the frame. I just took a few light passes with a Die Grinder with a rotary file then blew it out with compressed air..

Rick B,
Go ahead, break down and buy a copy of the Repair Manual on CD. They are cheap ($15 or less) and can be found all over the net. Be sure to get a recent one with both 1200 and 1300 models. When it comes time to put a 1300 clutch or what ever in your 1200, you'll be needing info for both bikes.
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post #5 of 7 (permalink) Old Mar 3rd, 2019, 1:33 pm Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Caledon, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 8
I had a look at the manual and I agree there appears to be a lot of stuff that has to be removed. I am going to take my time and do things in stages. If I can complete it without removing something then great. If I can't complete it then I will remove it as required. Maybe I will try and video it so people can learn from my mistakes, which will probably be many
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post #6 of 7 (permalink) Old Mar 31st, 2019, 1:14 pm Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Caledon, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 8
So I completed the shock removal and installed the Wilbers. I started by removing the items according to the shop CD. I did not have to remove the fender, rear wheel or exhaust. Once I removed the bolts holding the subframe I was able to tilt and lift it up out of the way just enough that I could start moving the oil tank. Getting the subframe up and out of the way took a bit of cajoling as I had to loosen some of clips that hold the electrical wiring. I only moved the oil tank enough to pull the shock out from the top after disconnecting the ESA connectors. Installation was easier. The Wilbers shock with hydraulic preload went in easy. Having the subframe suspended on the strap made installation controllable as I could lower it in small increments all the while it being supported. Everything buttoned back up very easily. I started video taping this venture so others could see but it turned into a farce. I have a renewed respect for people that can set up a camera, explain and show what they are doing all at the same time. I found it just interfered with my task at hand. Can't wait to ride. Next job, airbox change
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post #7 of 7 (permalink) Old Apr 1st, 2019, 10:13 pm
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Location: Seattle, WA, USA
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The only real pain in the ass about the Air Box is the Hose Clamps on the Throttle Bodies. They are a hook and notch arrangement and Hell to get back on. There is even a note in the manual suggesting replacing them with regular screw clamps.

I whole heartedly recommend this. The only caution that must be taken is to get 4 Hose Clamps that are long enough but only 3/8 " wide as opposed to the usual 1/2" width you usually see in Home Depot or hardware stores. You can't use 1/2" width Clamps without damaging the Rubber Boots. You will find 3/8" wide Clamps at Graingers or other well stocked industrial supply.

The only reason the factory uses the Clamps they do, is because they lend themselves to fast production practices like the now common use of Torx fasteners; they stay on the tip of the driver better then other types. It's all just production speed.

While changing out the Air Box, you might want to color code the Hoses and Elec Connections with tape for ease of re-identifying when you put it all back together.
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