Advice on changing 06 BMW K1200GT Final Drive - K-Bikes.com - Excellence in Motion
 
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old Mar 13th, 2019, 8:00 pm Thread Starter
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Advice on changing 06 BMW K1200GT Final Drive

Hello,

My final drive failed a while ago, and I finally found a used final drive for a decent price. The new one is an 08 with facilities for changing the oil easier. I had the old "permanent oil" final drive. I was just looking for tips removing the pin that holds the final drive to the driveshaft. I've already loosened the upper bolt and supported the final drive, but the lower one on what appears to be a pin going through the swingarm is really tenacious. I'll hit it a torch, but was wondering if anyone had any advice about this, or the rest of the project. I've looked for procedures, but all of them seem to be regarding changing the oil.

Thanks!
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old Mar 13th, 2019, 9:50 pm
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Try this:
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File Type: pdf Final Drive.pdf (318.4 KB, 47 views)

2009 K1300 GT
2005 R1200 RT - gone
2008 Honda CBR1000 RR - gone
1984 Kawasaki ZX750-E1 Turbo
1990 Kawasaki ZX600R
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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old Mar 14th, 2019, 9:23 pm Thread Starter
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Thank-you so much, that's more than I had! Having a hard time getting that pin and nut to come loose, but more heat might work. Thanks again, I really appreciate your help TF1200RT!
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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old Mar 14th, 2019, 9:51 pm
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Go here and buy the manual.

2009 K1300 GT
2005 R1200 RT - gone
2008 Honda CBR1000 RR - gone
1984 Kawasaki ZX750-E1 Turbo
1990 Kawasaki ZX600R
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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old Mar 20th, 2019, 9:30 pm
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The threaded sleeve that holds the pivot for the Final Drive is held in with Sleeve Retainer, not just Thread Locker. It's actually an Adhesive. You will have to get it hot enough to cook it out of there. A good Heat Gun on High should work. I use a little Propane Torch and put Foil Tape around the immediate area to save the paint. There are a number of fasteners on K-Bikes that are sealed with Sleeve Retainer. This factor alone is good enough reason to buy a Repair Manual CD. They are all over the net and are usually pretty cheap ($15- $20).

When reassembling, it is not necessary to re-glue the Sleeve. Just torque it correctly and Loctite it.

The main cause for Final Drive failure is that riders don't change their Gear Oil. I change my Gear Oil every Spring when I do my Lub and Tune-up. I run "Castrol Differential SAF-XO" SAE 75W-90. Change the Oil in your replacement Drive now. Don't put it off.
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old Mar 20th, 2019, 10:50 pm
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Looks like you got some good advice already. Its pretty simple to disassemble and re-assemble once you have some heat on it. You can also google it. There is a good youtube video that walks through the entire process.
this one is a different bike but the process is identical. There are lots of others out there but this is the most complete, the guy likes to cuss, but its good info.

Also, if anyone else is looking for a used Final Drive, I have one in great condition available. Its off an 07 K1200GT with 52,000 miles. Never had any issues, serviced annually.
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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old Mar 21st, 2019, 11:21 am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SpaceViking View Post
The main cause for Final Drive failure is that riders don't change their Gear Oil. I change my Gear Oil every Spring when I do my Lub and Tune-up. I run "Castrol Differential SAF-XO" SAE 75W-90. Change the Oil in your replacement Drive now. Don't put it off.
I think I have OCD. I change my final drive gear oil every 6,000 miles with the engine oil change.

2009 K1300 GT
2005 R1200 RT - gone
2008 Honda CBR1000 RR - gone
1984 Kawasaki ZX750-E1 Turbo
1990 Kawasaki ZX600R
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old Mar 21st, 2019, 1:57 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TF1200RT View Post
I think I have OCD. I change my final drive gear oil every 6,000 miles with the engine oil change.

Oh...you are sick......I wait for 12k

It does make ya feel better, right? It does me.
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old Apr 25th, 2019, 3:45 pm
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The video above is for a completely different bike (R-bike paralever) and not much of it applies to the GT.

The pivot pin bolt on the GT final drive uses red Loctite from the factory and can be a real [email protected]#$% to loosen. Heat is the answer and lots of it, sometimes it works and sometimes not. I
eventually had to give up and drill the bolt out. BMW has this weird fetish for red Locktite everywhere and it can really be a PITA. As noted above you do not need to apply red Locktite on reinstall, blue and proper torque is quite adequate.
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