Final Drive oil change - K-Bikes.com - Excellence in Motion
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post #1 of 23 (permalink) Old Sep 9th, 2006, 4:52 pm Thread Starter
The Gov
 
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Final Drive oil change

Just dropped off my GT for it's 6K. Dealer suggested they change the oil in the final drive. He told me that NA is now recommending an oil change in it at the 600 now and that it would be a good idea to change mine as well.

Awesome day, took me 160 miles to get to the dealer 40 miles away

Phil Space
Springfield, VA
2007 K1200GT the road beast
2009 F800GS - My little adventure bike.
2007 F800ST - Her's, but I can ride it.
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post #2 of 23 (permalink) Old Sep 9th, 2006, 9:43 pm
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by philspace
Just dropped off my GT for it's 6K. Dealer suggested they change the oil in the final drive. He told me that NA is now recommending an oil change in it at the 600 now and that it would be a good idea to change mine as well.

Awesome day, took me 160 miles to get to the dealer 40 miles away
I'll be changing mine at 12K . . . not too far off.
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post #3 of 23 (permalink) Old Sep 10th, 2006, 12:30 am
 
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I see the drain plug.
But where oh where do we fill at ???
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post #4 of 23 (permalink) Old Sep 10th, 2006, 8:09 am Thread Starter
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Holy crap! I just looked it up and wished I hadn't. It's not a big deal, but it's sure looks like a PIA.

Here are the steps ala BMW:
  1. Remove the cover, losen the clamp and remove the muffler
  2. Remove the rear wheel
  3. Remove the brake caliper
  4. Remove the rear speed sensor
  5. Release the paralink at the rear and support the final drive with a strap (it's now flopped down, with the fill plug at the bottom
  6. Remove the flexible gaiter, pull the bevel-pinion shaft out of the universal shaft and pivot the rear-wheel drive down.
  7. Remove oil drain plug (1) and drain off the oil.
  8. Install the rubber gaiter, pivot the rear-wheel drive up and introduce the bevel-pinion shaft into the universal shaft. If necessary, turn the universal shaft gently back and forth to facilitate this operation.
  9. Use retaining strap to secure the rear-wheel drive so that it cannot drop.
  10. Put the drain plug back in
  11. Reconnect the paralever link
  12. Fill the final drive with oil via the speed sensor hole
  13. Grease the speed sensor O ring and put it in the final drive, followed by the greased speed sensor and then install the screw.
  14. Put the rest back together

Don't you wish you hadn't asked. Now I know why they are adding a drain plug to the 07's. I think this is important. A friend of mine on an R12GS had his final drive fail at 17K while riding back from the ALCAN 5000.

Phil Space
Springfield, VA
2007 K1200GT the road beast
2009 F800GS - My little adventure bike.
2007 F800ST - Her's, but I can ride it.
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post #5 of 23 (permalink) Old Sep 10th, 2006, 8:55 am
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by philspace
Holy crap! I just looked it up and wished I hadn't. It's not a big deal, but it's sure looks like a PIA.

Here are the steps ala BMW:
  1. Remove the cover, losen the clamp and remove the muffler
  2. Remove the rear wheel
  3. Remove the brake caliper
  4. Remove the rear speed sensor
  5. Release the paralink at the rear and support the final drive with a strap (it's now flopped down, with the fill plug at the bottom
  6. Remove the flexible gaiter, pull the bevel-pinion shaft out of the universal shaft and pivot the rear-wheel drive down.
  7. Remove oil drain plug (1) and drain off the oil.
  8. Install the rubber gaiter, pivot the rear-wheel drive up and introduce the bevel-pinion shaft into the universal shaft. If necessary, turn the universal shaft gently back and forth to facilitate this operation.
  9. Use retaining strap to secure the rear-wheel drive so that it cannot drop.
  10. Put the drain plug back in
  11. Reconnect the paralever link
  12. Fill the final drive with oil via the speed sensor hole
  13. Grease the speed sensor O ring and put it in the final drive, followed by the greased speed sensor and then install the screw.
  14. Put the rest back together
:wtf

This is why God invented the service department.

Brian
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post #6 of 23 (permalink) Old Sep 10th, 2006, 9:01 am Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bnblazer
:wtf

This is why God invented the service department.

Brian
Yup. It's really not that bad, but I hate the smell of gear oil, they can do it.

Phil Space
Springfield, VA
2007 K1200GT the road beast
2009 F800GS - My little adventure bike.
2007 F800ST - Her's, but I can ride it.
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post #7 of 23 (permalink) Old Sep 10th, 2006, 10:08 am
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by philspace
Yup. It's really not that bad, but I hate the smell of gear oil, they can do it.
The taste is even worse!

I think the boys over at advrider have a more simple way to do this. Riding those new GSes with the sealed drives.
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post #8 of 23 (permalink) Old Sep 10th, 2006, 11:42 am Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by messenger13
The taste is even worse!

I think the boys over at advrider have a more simple way to do this. Riding those new GSes with the sealed drives.
Yup, same sealed drive we have = '06 R12GS with failed final drive, left Ilmostro stuck in BMF Ontario waiting on a new one after the Alcan 5000. I think they are the reason BMW has changed their mind about "sealed" and changing the oil.

Here's a picture of what the final drive looks like in "drain" mode
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Phil Space
Springfield, VA
2007 K1200GT the road beast
2009 F800GS - My little adventure bike.
2007 F800ST - Her's, but I can ride it.
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post #9 of 23 (permalink) Old Sep 10th, 2006, 12:00 pm
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Wunnerful.

Sounds like the infamous "RT splines never need lubing" that exisited in the past.

Now that I have 2500 miles on the '06 GT (and I doubt if they did a rear fluid change when it was in for the 600), I wonder what the drive is gonna be like down the road? Least I got the 7 year warranty just in case.

but still.....

So what oil should be used in the final? Red Line Shockproof maybe? Weight? I'm thinking of balancing the rear tire with the Marc Paynes balancer and may as well flush out the darn final while I got the wheel off.

On the old 100K miles RT, I put some moly-disulfide goop in the drive and tranny, maybe a couple of ounces. Never had a drive or tranny bearing failure, but the tranny and final pinion seals did leak and needed changing around the 7 year mark.
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post #10 of 23 (permalink) Old Sep 10th, 2006, 12:08 pm Thread Starter
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Manual says .22L of Castol SAF-XO, which is a full synthetic

Phil Space
Springfield, VA
2007 K1200GT the road beast
2009 F800GS - My little adventure bike.
2007 F800ST - Her's, but I can ride it.
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