Final drive oil change - Not entirely successful - K-Bikes.com - Excellence in Motion
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old Sep 20th, 2006, 11:24 am Thread Starter
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Final drive oil change - Not entirely successful

Since BMW has since annouced the need of doing a final drive oil change at 600 miles, I decided I should try and do it myself as my dealer is far, far away. Besides, I am at 2500 miles now so maybe I should do it now instead of waiting for the 6K service. Dealer never did it at the initial 600.

The oil plug faces rearward at the 3 o'clock position. The fill is where the speed sensor is nearest the rim. The CD manual shows removal of muffler, wheel, brake caliper, speed sensor, and top torque arm bolt allowing the final drive to pivot downwards so the oil will drain out of the rearward facing drain plug.

Doing all the above, I could not get the final drive's drain plug to point straight down to 6 o'clock position. Seems the final yoke on the drive shaft will not fully disengage from the final drive spline allowing it to drop straight down.

In the manual it shows a puller to get the decorative black cap off the lower pivot point of the drive (drill out and use slide-hammer puller!). So that seems to be a expendable part one needs to have on hand, plus one would have to reset the preload of the final pivot bearings. On the old RT, one needed to use a torch and a 10 foot snipe to break the damn (Locktite) pivot bolts loose. Ugh!

Without messing with the lower pivot assembly, at best the plug would only point down to around the 4 o'clock position. The drive isn't heavy, maybe about like an 8 pound bowling ball. The rubber boot is held in by some sort of thick white grease with an internal expanding ring verses the external boot on the old RT's. There is no room to insert a small hose in either hole to suck out the old fluid. The crown gear is too close to either hole.

My best attempt was to use an extra quart of oil and do a series of 4 flushes. I put the drive back up and put a screwdrive in the upper torque arm to hold it up. Put in maybe 150cc of oil (side of bottle), spinned it by hand, and dropped it to allow as much as would come out. Repeated the procedure for 4 times. At the end, it came out pretty clean (clear yellow).

Yes, the old was dirty and had what appeared to have moly-disulfide in it. It was a dark color near the bottom of the drive. Uppermost fluid was clear as it came out of the hole initially when I first pulled the plug. I found a Amsoil rep. in the phone book white pages and he sold me a quart of their 75-90 weight (GL-5) oil for $10.30. Seems Amsoil is just about sold as Amway Products (i.e. individual salesman).

The other odd thing was I could almost loosen the wheel's Torx bolts by hand! Dunno what was up with that? The old 4-bolt RT wheel was a bear at times to loosen, but it had a higher torque setting as well.
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old Sep 20th, 2006, 11:47 am
 
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I have not tried this one yet, but based on all the horror stories, wouldnt it be easier just to use a suction gun and suck all the old oil out and replace with fresh gear oil through the sensor hole?

Flash
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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old Sep 20th, 2006, 12:33 pm Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Flash1034
I have not tried this one yet, but based on all the horror stories, wouldnt it be easier just to use a suction gun and suck all the old oil out and replace with fresh gear oil through the sensor hole?
I had tried that as my first option and had a very small diameter silicon hose (0.125" OD)on a 100cc hypodermic syringe. However, I could not get any hose into the final past the crown gear, certainly not down to the bottom of the drive. Trying to spin the crown gear to push the hose downward would surely cut the hose to bits as the teeth were pretty sharp. That or it would compress the hose to where nothing would come out.

That speed sensor just about touches the crown gear teeth and those teeth keep you from snaking a hose into it. As to filling, if I didn't get the hose into a position between the teeth, it just shot back out at me.

That small housing doesn't have any clearance for anything to get around that crown gear.
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old Sep 20th, 2006, 12:56 pm
 
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Is'nt it/shouldn't it be part of the initial 600 mile service...were you just trying to save a few pennies on a $20k bike?
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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old Sep 20th, 2006, 1:50 pm Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sportrider
Is'nt it/shouldn't it be part of the initial 600 mile service...were you just trying to save a few pennies on a $20k bike?
This was changed maybe a month ago? I bought mine last June and had the 600 (really was at 1000) miles service done a week later by the dealer following my week's vacation on the bike. At that time, the final was supposedly "lifetime lubricated." Cost was $210 or so and no final service was done - or recommended - then. It isn't in the owner's manual either as I recall. Probably why they left the drain plug off the bottom?

But they said that (i.e. "lifetime lubricated") about the clutch splines on the old RT as well.....
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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old Sep 20th, 2006, 2:17 pm
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Question Service Bulletin

Folks,
Is there a service bulletin from BMW that is suggesting/requiring the rear drive oil change out for 06 GT's? As of 1.5 weeks ago my dealer did not know anything about the need to change oil - and that was my 600 mile service.
Just wanting the information before I go to the dealer.
Bill
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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old Sep 20th, 2006, 3:11 pm Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WMD
Folks,
Is there a service bulletin from BMW that is suggesting/requiring the rear drive oil change out for 06 GT's? As of 1.5 weeks ago my dealer did not know anything about the need to change oil - and that was my 600 mile service.
Just wanting the information before I go to the dealer.
Bill
Bill, check on the two "Similar Threads" links below about the "Final drive" oil change.

The one by eljeffe has the quote from BMW you are probably looking for.

The other thread from PhilSpace has the detailed procedure, just that mine didn't look like the small thumbnail photo in the middle of the post. Mine never pointed downward as much nor disconnected from the driveline as in the photo (i.e. Steps 5 & 6 in PhilSpace's explanation is what I had problems with). Maybe my driveline slid back a bit which kept me from disconnecting it from the final? The photo may be another model than the GT? But looking closely at the photo, it doesn't look like their drain plug is pointing straight down either (mine was at the maybe 4:30 position which is why I flushed it 4 times).

In the photo it also shows the decorative black plastic cover removed from the lower pivot bearing bolt/nut. On the BMW repair CD, they drill a hole in the cover and use a sliding hammer to pop the cover off. It may be removable by some careful prying around the edge, but since I am so far from a dealer I gave up on doing some "cover destruction" as the CD recommends and bearing preload. I don't know why the photo shows the plastic cover removed and the nut still there if it doesn't need to be removed to fully pivot the drive downward???

Still, my final's oil came out dark (2500 miles) and the wheel lug bolts were pretty loose too.
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old Sep 21st, 2006, 11:50 pm
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GMack - appreciate your detailed response on the success of the oil flush. If there is an issue with the rear drive in the future - I would prefer that the dealer performs this particular task. Both of the dealers are about 200 miles each way - but I can make the ride interesting by going the back ways.
Had gone through the other threads but was hoping to find a bulletin number. The two dealers that I deal with have ,shall we say, a wee bit of disdain for any information from the Internet - not trying to start a flame war here.
Thanks,
Bill
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old Sep 22nd, 2006, 6:13 am
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WMD
GMack - appreciate your detailed response on the success of the oil flush. If there is an issue with the rear drive in the future - I would prefer that the dealer performs this particular task. Both of the dealers are about 200 miles each way - but I can make the ride interesting by going the back ways.
Had gone through the other threads but was hoping to find a bulletin number. The two dealers that I deal with have ,shall we say, a wee bit of disdain for any information from the Internet - not trying to start a flame war here.
Thanks,
Bill
Bill-
I know exactly what you mean.
I too wish there was a source or access to the "service bulletin" themselves, so we could go into the dealer and say "hey, how about taking care of this for me".
I think the liability for this is on BMW.

I called my dealer on several issues that I have seen on the web.
Like the 7.0 update.
His response???
"Sorry sir, there are no open campaigns on your bike".
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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old Sep 22nd, 2006, 10:01 am
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Yes, there are no "open"campaigns for the bike. You have to ask the dealer to "force" the 7.0 upgrade, as i have done. I got it in as a warranty as I had previously complained at the 600 mile service that my bike was not running smoothly.
The issue here is to complain and then afterwards ask for the 7.0 to be forced...

Larry
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