succesful final drive oil change - K-Bikes.com - Excellence in Motion
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post #1 of 18 (permalink) Old Sep 23rd, 2006, 11:45 am Thread Starter
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succesful final drive oil change

The key to getting the final drive all the way down is to remove the boot from the drive shaft housing, and hold the drive shaft in against the trans.
It's not nessasary to remove the rear brake caliper.
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post #2 of 18 (permalink) Old Sep 23rd, 2006, 1:36 pm
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how about this?

wouldn't it be simpler to just raise the front end of the bike in the air (stand straight up) if necessary to drain the oil? This seems like an awful lot of work and a lot of potential to not get everything back together just right. If I went to all of that trouble I would crack open the case and drill and tap it for a drain and fill hole/plug.

Thanks for the pics, I am sure they will come in handy some day.

Cheers.
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post #3 of 18 (permalink) Old Sep 23rd, 2006, 4:31 pm
 
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I like your drill and tap idea.

Flash
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post #4 of 18 (permalink) Old Sep 23rd, 2006, 5:13 pm
 
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Isn't there a easy way?

Possible to put a tube in there and drain the oil that way?

What kind of oil suppose to go in there?
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post #5 of 18 (permalink) Old Sep 23rd, 2006, 6:32 pm
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Congratulations!

You had better luck than I did.

Questions:

1. I see you didn't move or remove your muffler. Will the tire come off the bike without messing with it? I took mine off since the BMW instructions said to.

2. I suspected the driveline may have been keeping me from breaking the union between the final and the driveshaft to swing it down fully. Did you push forward or secure the driveshaft in some form? I tried, but never succeeded. The boot broke loose at the back section and shouldn't have affected the driveline being the problem allowing separation.

3. Did you find a suitable (white) grease for the rubber boot or reinstall it with the stock stuff left on?

4. How many hours would you guesstimate the job took? Mine was close to 3 hours since I never did it before, but I'm slow...and even slower when things get stuck.

Glad the damn black plastic cover doesn't need to come off or mess with the pivot bearings. I'm also glad it can be done without removing the calipers or their sensor wire.

Seems the BMW repair manual CD/DVD is just wrong on so many counts!

Now we can argue about adding Dow Corning Gear Moly and the percentages to add.
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post #6 of 18 (permalink) Old Sep 23rd, 2006, 8:02 pm Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GMack
Congratulations!

You had better luck than I did.

Questions:

1. I see you didn't move or remove your muffler. Will the tire come off the bike without messing with it? I took mine off since the BMW instructions said to.

2. I suspected the driveline may have been keeping me from breaking the union between the final and the driveshaft to swing it down fully. Did you push forward or secure the driveshaft in some form? I tried, but never succeeded. The boot broke loose at the back section and shouldn't have affected the driveline being the problem allowing separation.

3. Did you find a suitable (white) grease for the rubber boot or reinstall it with the stock stuff left on?

4. How many hours would you guesstimate the job took? Mine was close to 3 hours since I never did it before, but I'm slow...and even slower when things get stuck.

Glad the damn black plastic cover doesn't need to come off or mess with the pivot bearings. I'm also glad it can be done without removing the calipers or their sensor wire.

Seems the BMW repair manual CD/DVD is just wrong on so many counts!

Now we can argue about adding Dow Corning Gear Moly and the percentages to add.
1. I just loosen the muffler remove the tire than put the bolt back in loose to hold the muffler up.
2. Untill I got the boot off the drive shaft housing I couldn't seperate the drive shaft from the final drive either. Once I did I just pushed the drive shaft towards the trans and down it came.
3. I didn't put any grease on the boot, it's just a dust shield.
4. The next time it shouldn't take more than 1 hour.
I filled it with BMW 75-140W full syn. gear oil.
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post #7 of 18 (permalink) Old Nov 15th, 2006, 8:20 am
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what do you use to seperate the drive shaft from the final drive?
i can't get it do let go. it moves on the splines just fine but will not come off completely.
thanks...

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post #8 of 18 (permalink) Old Nov 15th, 2006, 8:28 am
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Push forward on the main shaft while rotating the housing down. It breaks free but with a little effort. Reattaching it is the same. You might have to rotate the disc brake and hub assembly to line up the splines.
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post #9 of 18 (permalink) Old Nov 15th, 2006, 7:35 pm
 
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I asked this in another thread, but what type of stand do you guys recommend to hold the bike up in case the bike doesn't have a center stand.

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post #10 of 18 (permalink) Old Nov 15th, 2006, 8:13 pm
 
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I don't have a centerstand either, I may ask the dealership shop, how they get the oil out.
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