Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Moscow, , Russia
Here are some details on our trip:
1. Day 1: we left Moscow quite late, at noon, and headed west, direction Minsk. As my wife's CS had the new set of tyres(Mez6) the first 100 km we rode like the L-platers, max 100 km/h. A lot of strange looks from passing cagers :-)). But then we put everybody on their places.. There are no border formalities between Russia and Belorussia, only a traffic police check-point, so we crossed the border and soon turned south, direction Gomel-Kiev. The roads in Belorussia are fine, narrow but empty and scenic. The fines for speed-limits are severe - up to 30 km/h above the limit costs USD 150,-; the same for the second time within the year - USD 300,- and lost of license for 6 months. So everybody respects the rules :-)) we reached Gomel by 8 p.m. - means we covered 800 km in 8 hours without a rush. Stopped every 2 hours or 200 km for refuel. As the night was coming and having the Ukrainian-Belorussian border ahead we decided to stay overnight in Gomel.
Day 2: crossed the border. It took 1 hour even having by-passed the line of 4 cars. Motorbikes go first :-)). Ukrainian roads are worse than Belorussian, the fines are low and the quantity of crazy cagers is enormous. Looks like the traffic police stop only foreign cars because locals do not stop. The traffic police do not look self-confident and as the result I did not feel safe there. Also there are a lot of scooters(50 ccm) in ukrainian villages and cagers on the roads did not expect you coming so fast - they start overtaking on two-way roads right in front of you. Kiev is a different story - I had a feeling that the cagers there just hate the motorbikers. But we passed through the city as there was no way to bypass it and went south to Odessa. Some 200 km away and started the famous local highway - a piece of newly reconstructed road. We continued riding the same speed and were stopped by traffic police. Oops-did not notice them in time and was lazy to brake hard! Sorry, officer. 156 km/h instead of 130? Oh, it's a pity. How much?- 10$ in the court! - O.K. here they are.
At that moment a Porshe Cayenne and AUDI A8 with local plates passed us and I was able to imagine that their speed was far above 200 km/h! The policemen did not move! I turned to them and asked why didn't they even try to stop those cars? The guys turned the eyes down and mumbled something about "those fellows never stop":-(( We continued. 70 km before Odessa the road was under construction and we entered the city in the dark. Being the first time there we took a taxi to follow to our hotel, parked the bikes, took shower and beer! Of course!
Day 3. Odessa. walked around the city, nice weather, watched the people, had a lunch in a cafe in the central street, au plain air. Counted 7 Porshe Cayenne within 1,5 hours - poor country! In the evening witnessed celebration of the Jewish New Year in a restaurant- quite interesting!
Day 4. Left for Zaporoj'e. Unknown road along the Black Sea. We caught two bikers from Kiev, one FZS1000 and one Suzuki 600 ccm. They followed us about 150 km and were surprised that BMW could maintain 180-200 km/h and so easily lean with side cases on( the boys were empty, only one rucksack for two). We passed Kherson and separated: the boys moved south to the Crimea and we had to go north, to Zaporoj'e - an old friend of mine and his family already waited us there. Nice dinner, lots of jokes and wine. A guard in the hotel told us: "we had a visit of Moscow Harley owners club on their way to Crimea last month" - that was so funny!
Day 5. Sunday. Breakfast together with the friends and a short ride to Dnepropetrovsk - 90 km. Half an hour. Some pics there, a question from one local biker "Why BMW?" - " Understanding comes from experience" and moved direction Kiev. Really bad but picturesque roads. Visited Mirgorod - small town, had lunch there and by night arrived to Kiev and were lost. Caught the same hole in the asphalt as there was almost no light in that turn in the city' centre. The GT's rim was fine but the CS's turned out to be weaker. Hopefully the tyre did not go flat! After one hour of wandering found our hotel and went asleep like babies(one beer each though) :-))
Day 6. Started direction Moscow via Belorussia. The same border crossing took only 10 minutes.
And then we decided to take a different road, to Briansk -Kaluga -Moscow. So we made 70 km on a nice road in Belorussia and then started a kind of a torture.Russia! 270 km to Briansk. We reached Kaluga with the sun-set(200 km) and the rest 200 km were made in the dark. The temperature went down to 13C then to 10C and before Moscow again 13C. So I had to switch on the heated grips : 1 - not enough.Then 2. Too hot - back to 1. Did not want to stop to add underwear and upon entering Moscow stopped at the BP gas station for hot tea :-)) Parked the bikes, unloaded and came home full of emotions :-)
And I forgot the screw for fixation of NAVIII so had to leave Moscow without Navigator :-))
Thanks God the sun was on - was able to tell East-West :-))
'06 K1200GT Blue (sold)
'09 F800GS Grey
'07 F800ST Blue - wife's(sold)
'09 F650GS Blue - wife's
Last edited by easyman05; Oct 3rd, 2006 at 11:26 am.