600 Mile Service -- No Rear Wheel Oil Change - K-Bikes.com - Excellence in Motion
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post #1 of 16 (permalink) Old Oct 13th, 2006, 8:47 pm Thread Starter
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600 Mile Service -- No Rear Wheel Oil Change

Hi Guys,

Had my 600 mile service done today. Took a look at the print out they gave me after the service. The maintenance schedule calls for "Changing oil in rear-wheel drive." Nevertheless, the tech told me that this wasn't necessary so they skipped it.

So it appears that the maintenance schedule provided by BMW is "optional." Each dealer can decide for themselves what they do.

$144 for an engine oil/filter change. Love the bike anyway.

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post #2 of 16 (permalink) Old Oct 13th, 2006, 9:20 pm
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Mine dealer skipped it also - but that was before they got the bulletin. Cost w/o the rear drive service was $210 for the 600 miler. I'm sure they would have liked to have gotten another hour of labor and oil charge on top of that (~$300?). However, since they are a busy shop I believe they would rather rush bikes through and skip the "little stuff" (i.e. "harder stuff," imho).

I did mine at home and the stuff that came out was pretty dark and I did several flushes before it cleared up. I believe it may have had some moly-paste mixed in with whatever oil BMW uses (I don't think they even know since dealers cannot tell what weight to use: e.g. 75-90, 75-140, 85-90, 90, dino or synth, add Dow Corning Gear Guard and how many ml?, etc.).

Mine had around 1500 miles when I drained it out. If you do decide to do it, you might want to send the oil off to one of those oil analysis labs and have them check it for any suspicious metals that may show up in the oil. Might give you some piece of mind.

Surely BMW wouldn't have issued the change (advisory, or whatever they call it) if something were not right.

I wouldn't like to fall victim to a funky final drive while out in the middle of nowhere. The final drive always seems to be the biggest problem on the last decade of BMW bikes. Okay, that and the leaky tranny seals of the boxer engines. Rarely is it the engine.

On my old RT, I changed the tranny oil and final at every oil change. Maybe a bit too much, but then the tranny nor drive never failed mechanically. Sure, three of the five oil seals leaked in the tranny as well as the input final drive shaft seal, but that was probably due to BMW doing some sort of rough surface bead-blast to the shafts as well as using a cheap rubber seal that hardened while sitting on top of a boiling hot catalytic converter.

My 2 cents, fwiw.
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post #3 of 16 (permalink) Old Oct 13th, 2006, 10:17 pm
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My 600 mile service was no charge. With no rear oil change, but that was in June.
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post #4 of 16 (permalink) Old Oct 13th, 2006, 10:54 pm
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Mine was not done during my $145 600 mile service as the nut that has to come off, is on back order. They are going to let it go to the 6000 mile service...
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post #5 of 16 (permalink) Old Oct 13th, 2006, 11:57 pm
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I called 2 shops and they said they were not doing the rear end oil change on 600 mile services. 1 shop said they would do it for extra $100.
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post #6 of 16 (permalink) Old Oct 14th, 2006, 12:55 am
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Originally Posted by GMack
On my old RT, I changed the tranny oil and final at every oil change.
And what was the cost? Or you did it yourself?

Take care!

'06 K1200GT Blue (sold)
'09 F800GS Grey
'07 F800ST Blue - wife's(sold)
'09 F650GS Blue - wife's
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post #7 of 16 (permalink) Old Oct 14th, 2006, 12:12 pm
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Originally Posted by easyman05
And what was the cost? Or you did it yourself?
I did all my own service on the RT for nearly 76K miles, including the tear down and reassembly of the tranny for the seal job. No dealer nearby anymore so I have to order parts. I wanted to use some better quality Viton seals in the tranny, but I did my measurements wrong (they were installed from the inside out on some of them) and they wouldn't fit. So I had to use the cheaper BMW ones that were available at Irv Seavers when I had them do the final drive pinion at the time I had the tranny apart (some special socket needed on the pinion shaft to get it apart). Never leaked again, even after I got rid of it. Took me two weeks though - being a first timer.

I used Mobil 1 in the RT's engine, and their gear oil for the tranny and final until I sold it at 100K. At least the tranny and final on the RT had drain plugs that didn't require breaking apart the final drive coupling like the '06 GT does.

On the GT, I used some Amsoil 75-90 synthetic (GL-5 rated). Cost was about $10.50 or so for a quart. I'm planning to send the original Amsoil and what comes out of the final to a lab in maybe 2000 miles just to see what is going on in the final and what they expect the oil change intervals to really be.

I do find BMW dealer's word "optional" with regards to the 600 miler final drive service a little odd though.

Kind'a like saying a spline lube isn't required....until she blows chunks!
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post #8 of 16 (permalink) Old Oct 14th, 2006, 5:56 pm
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The oil to use for the final drive as per the BMW manual is Castrol SAF-XO, full synthetic.

I haven't change mine-05 K1200S but might look into that to see if I can do it and what modifications (plugs or whatever needed) are necessary to the final drive to make it possible.

If any one knows the steps please post them.

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post #9 of 16 (permalink) Old Oct 14th, 2006, 6:00 pm
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I forgot - the quantity of oil to use is 0.25L.

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post #10 of 16 (permalink) Old Oct 14th, 2006, 10:53 pm
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Thumbs up Final drive oil change

Hi, Nick, you mentioned your concerns about changing the final drive oil. I have a '05 R1200RT, basically the same final drive. I changed the oil this week. It takes an hour if you go slow. I removed the rear wheel. I removed the brake caliper (may not be needed) and hung it from the rear rack with a bungee. I undid the clips that hold the wire to the rear ABS sensor. I cleaned around the sensor with spray degreaser and removed it. It has an O ring that sits in a recess just at the opening. The sensor had some metal filings stuck to it as it is magnetic. I Took another bungee and tied up the rear swing arm. There is a torx (or torx like) fitting in the horizontal position rear side of the final drive unit, clean the area and remove. This plug has an O ring on it and thus does not require much torque to re seat. (renew all O rings). Then I removed the rear bolt holding the anti torque arm to the final drive unit. Hold on to the final drive unit as it wants to swing down. Let it swing down. The boot will come apart easily and you can see the universal at the end of the drive shaft, it needed a little help coming off the pinion drive splines. I moly greased these splines on re assemble. Let the unit swivel 90 degrees down and drain out all the oil into your container. I ran a batch of flush oil through the unit but my oil was fairly clean. (I did a K1200RS at 500 miles years ago and it was black with junk) Someone mentioned that they thought the black they found was molydenum disulfide, I wonder. I have never heard BMW doing that but there are good moly additives out there. I replaced the drive plug and rear torque arm bolt. I have a 20 cc syringe that I replaced 225 cc of synthetic gear oil and put the ABS sensor back in using a little lube on it so it would slide in through the new O ring. Replaced the two cable routing clips, caliper back on, wheel back on, (use all the proper torques from the book, Rear wheel bolts are 60N/M and the brake bolts are 40 N/M.) All is well and I figure I will do this every two years or 15K miles along with the tranny.
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