Mine dealer skipped it also - but that was before they got the bulletin. Cost w/o the rear drive service was $210 for the 600 miler. I'm sure they would have liked to have gotten another hour of labor and oil charge on top of that (~$300?). However, since they are a busy shop I believe they would rather rush bikes through and skip the "little stuff" (i.e. "harder stuff," imho).
I did mine at home and the stuff that came out was pretty dark and I did several flushes before it cleared up. I believe it may have had some moly-paste mixed in with whatever oil BMW uses (I don't think they even know since dealers cannot tell what weight to use: e.g. 75-90, 75-140, 85-90, 90, dino or synth, add Dow Corning Gear Guard and how many ml?, etc.).
Mine had around 1500 miles when I drained it out. If you do decide to do it, you might want to send the oil off to one of those oil analysis labs and have them check it for any suspicious metals that may show up in the oil. Might give you some piece of mind.
Surely BMW wouldn't have issued the change (advisory, or whatever they call it) if something were not right.
I wouldn't like to fall victim to a funky final drive while out in the middle of nowhere. The final drive always seems to be the biggest problem on the last decade of BMW bikes. Okay, that and the leaky tranny seals of the boxer engines. Rarely is it the engine.
On my old RT, I changed the tranny oil and final at every oil change. Maybe a bit too much, but then the tranny nor drive never failed mechanically. Sure, three of the five oil seals leaked in the tranny as well as the input final drive shaft seal, but that was probably due to BMW doing some sort of rough surface bead-blast to the shafts as well as using a cheap rubber seal that hardened while sitting on top of a boiling hot catalytic converter.
My 2 cents, fwiw.