Changing Lock for Top Box - K-Bikes.com - Excellence in Motion
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 8 (permalink) Old Jan 22nd, 2007, 9:56 am Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 25
Unhappy Changing Lock for Top Box

Hi,
I've just found this site and find it excellent. I bought a new KGT last year (06). I bought the large top box. I now have changed (well BMW replaced 06 for 07 due to loads of problems - some of which others have mentioned in the forum) to a 07 modle.
Does anyone know how to change the lock barrell without having to strip the whole box down ? Its doesn't seem to provide an easy method like the old panniers on the R 1100'2s or 1150's.
Problems on 06 KGT were as follows: from first day - couldn't get bike off centre stand. Stops problem.
Buzzing in 1st and 2nd gear up to 2-2.5 rpm. Clutch unit replaced. Shuddering when taking off in first later devoloped. 2nd clutch unit put in. This one was a modified one with 3 plates instead of 2. That sorted the shuddering. At 10,000km (6,200 miles for you in the States) the brake pad warning light came on. Went for 10k service and pads replaced. Light came on again. That would seem to rule out problem mentioned in forum that it was faulty pads. Buzzing noise still in bike at low revs. I gave the bike back and argued delivery of 07 one. Dealer now thinks they will have to replace gearbox to sort buzzing. And replace sensor for brake pad wear.
I hope 2007 bike will be better.
Other than that I did the 10,000k in France and adjoining countries no problem and still love the machine.
Spud is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 8 (permalink) Old Jan 22nd, 2007, 10:11 am
Statmaster
 
eljeffe's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Plano, TX, USA
Posts: 2,313
You will have to have the cylinder drilled out and have a new one installed that is keyed to your new key. Drilling out the existing cylinder shouldn't required dismantling of the topcase.

Become a Supporting Member of K-Bikes.com
__________________
El Jeffe
Plano, TX
'06 K1200GT Crystal Grey
'04 Sprint RS Caspian Blue
__________________
"I can make a woman orgasm so hard she screams out random numbers. Those numbers end up being winning lottery numbers." - Techfiend
eljeffe is offline  
post #3 of 8 (permalink) Old Jan 23rd, 2007, 7:28 am
Rookie
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Atlanta, GA, USA
Posts: 30
topcase lock

I had the same dilemma few months ago, and found someone at the local dealer who had previously found a way to pick out the existing cylinder. Once you look at a new cylinder, you can see how to do this- only the last little tab at the back of the cylinder is holding it in the case. The guy who picked out mine had fabriated a little tool out of a paper clip, and with it was able to depress that back tab in the lock! He had my old cylinder out in 2 minutes. If you have no similar luck at your dealer, I imagine that if you took a new cylinder to a locksmith that they could figure it out fairly easily.

Regarding drilling out- the other dealer in town has tried that, and ended up having to reorder a new case because that process damaged something. This could have been their inexperience in this, but I figure it is probably the reason the other dealer figured out how to avoid that process. Hope this helps
mcwaldeck is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #4 of 8 (permalink) Old Jan 23rd, 2007, 8:53 am Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 25
I had the same dilemma few months ago, and found someone at the local dealer who had previously found a way to pick out the existing cylinder. Once you look at a new cylinder, you can see how to do this- only the last little tab at the back of the cylinder is holding it in the case. The guy who picked out mine had fabriated a little tool out of a paper clip, and with it was able to depress that back tab in the lock! He had my old cylinder out in 2 minutes. If you have no similar luck at your dealer, I imagine that if you took a new cylinder to a locksmith that they could figure it out fairly easily.

Regarding drilling out- the other dealer in town has tried that, and ended up having to reorder a new case because that process damaged something. This could have been their inexperience in this, but I figure it is probably the reason the other dealer figured out how to avoid that process. Hope this helps


On my way to try. Thanks.
No nEiri an Bothar Leat (gaelic proverb)

In the field of Observation Luck only favours those whos minds are prepared. Stay Upright
Spud is offline  
post #5 of 8 (permalink) Old Jan 23rd, 2007, 11:32 am Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 25
As I said thanks for advice. Went to dealers today and had a look at what you said. The mechanic knew exactly what your talking about. The problem is aligning the teeth (tabs) as you gp into the barrel to get to the end tab (which is spring loaded).
Do you think it possible to contact the dealer again and give him my mail address and ask him to mail me a rough drawing of the "tool" made from the paperclip.
Did he go in through the barrel or did he disassemble part of the casing to get at the lock mechanism.
I know I'm being a pain in the ass to request this but no dealer in Ireland has had to change a lock from the new GT (or RT) top box , YET.

Thanks.
Spud is offline  
post #6 of 8 (permalink) Old Jan 23rd, 2007, 5:25 pm
Noob
 
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Osprey, FL, USA
Posts: 12
How to re-do lock cylinders

Do NOT drill anything. That is both foolish, expensive and wrong.

Take your case apart. It is very easy and allows acces to all the parts around the lock.

You do not need any special tools. Any slim pin will do. Just find the hole and push it in and the cylinder will come right out.

You need to get a "cylinder pins and springs kit" from your dealer. I got one from Haps in Sarasota Florida. Then take the cyclinder (carefuly) apart ... it justs pulls open, and you will find the "pins and springs" (I do not remember if there were either 6 or 8 of them).

You now need to figure out, based on your new key, which pins are number 1, number 2, or number 3. The kit and your existing lock both have the pins, and they are all numbered.

The pins are different lenghts (!!!) - Short, medium and long (the difference is quite small). Looking at your key, align the cylinder so that the pins correspond to the grooves in the key. Obviously the longer pin goes where there is a deeper groove, etc.

Put it all back together, and VOILA, it works. No need for a new cylinder, no drilling, no hastle. Just brains, perseverance, and the understanding that even BMW German engineers are not Gods. They designed a system that any technician around the world would be able to handle, assuming they know what they are doing. Unfortunately many do not, and furthermore, instead of being helpful they give us wrong information most of the time.

I re-did my R1200RT 2005 top case on my new K1200GT 2007 and it works perfect.

If you come to Sarasota Florida I will do it for you --- free !!!
rubenbar is offline  
post #7 of 8 (permalink) Old Jan 24th, 2007, 6:05 am Thread Starter
 
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 25
Thanks for invite but a little busy this side of the water at present. !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
There is no problem taking the inner section of the case apart - except for the section holding on the hinge brackets - which are riveted on.
Are you saying that if I undo the holding screws on the inner section it should allow me enough room around the lock mechanism to get at the hole to release cylinder ?
I fitted the original cylinder myself and am familiar with matching the pin system to the key. Oh, I agree with most all of your final comments.
Many Thanks.
Will try again.

Spud.

Last edited by Spud; Jan 24th, 2007 at 6:14 am.
Spud is offline  
post #8 of 8 (permalink) Old Jan 24th, 2007, 6:32 am
Rookie
 
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Atlanta, GA, USA
Posts: 30
To answer your question regarding my post- a. The guy who pulled my cylinder with the paper clip tool did all his work from the key end of the cylinder- I had stupidly locked my top case shut with the only key inside. b. If you email the service department at BMW Atlanta: http://www.bmwmcoa.com/ I imagine they would be happy to help with advise on the 'tool' they made
mcwaldeck is offline  
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the K-Bikes.com - Excellence in Motion forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
KR/KS throttle lock from Kaoko Ignore Amos K12/1300R/R-Sport 2 Jan 16th, 2008 10:35 am
helmet lock JCW K12/1300R/R-Sport 7 Nov 3rd, 2006 5:12 pm
Milage before changing brake pads kralties K12/1300S 3 Aug 30th, 2006 11:20 am
Color me Blue / Quick helmet lock randy K12/1300GT (Next Gen) 5 Jun 16th, 2006 12:55 pm
Another Throttle Lock on the Market.. Shelley K12/1300S 4 May 26th, 2006 3:13 pm

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome