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post #1 of 37 (permalink) Old Mar 31st, 2007, 5:18 pm Thread Starter
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BREAK in knowledge

care to share ideas on break in?

I plan on riding first: 15 mile loops ( local) , 2nd to 3rd, slowly accel then slowly decel to build up vaccum....do this over and over. THis will constitute 1 heat cycle.

on the next heat cycle, do the same, maybe a few more miles, each time increasing the max rev till getting close to 7. Then when the machine has about 100 miles or so, drain out the break in oil. maybe 6 ot 7 heat cycles w/ 12 hr cool down between each... ( this kinda sucks but i am willing, if it will make a difference....or is it drag strip fluff)

My concearns bounce between leaving break in oil long enough to do the job, and not to long due to original assey crud ( geting circulated in engine) . I have read tons of different ideas. Does anyone have a method that has absolutely proven to be the best?

Part of me says, vary the rpms, never go above 7K, drain the oil at 200 miles & 5 heat cycles are plenty



BTW, my new GT is the best bike I have ever owned and / or piloted It has none of the problems the 05's . I will post pics and review in a week or 2.
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post #2 of 37 (permalink) Old Mar 31st, 2007, 5:28 pm
 
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[QUOTE=Racegun]care to share ideas on break in?

I have read tons of different ideas. Does anyone have a method that has absolutely proven to be the best?


Yeah.
Very technical advice here.
Change the oil often, and ride the shit out of it / redlining very frequently.
I did, and mine runs stronger than anything I've had between my knees.

Enjoy the journey.
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post #3 of 37 (permalink) Old Mar 31st, 2007, 7:24 pm
 
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[QUOTE=GTdavey][QUOTE=Racegun]care to share ideas on break in?

***I have read tons of different ideas. Does anyone have a method that has absolutely proven to be the best?***


IMO, yes. I live in the mountains and did just what the owner's manual said. Rode my K1200R hard in the mountain twisties but not over 7K rpm until after the 600 mile service. After the 600 mile service, my dealer said to run it as hard as I want.

I have 2600 miles on it now, it uses zero oil, and I ride 85% of the time in the mountain twisties very hard. The rear tire is gone already to give you an idea of how hard I run. BMW's don't require science to break in and love to be run ruthlessly hard.

As a general statement, sport bikes are made to run hard all the time. I also have a Honda VFR and have ridden it unmercifully hard it's whole life. It corners better than the K1200R and is bullet proof. If a bike will break, I'll likely be the one that finds out.
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post #4 of 37 (permalink) Old Mar 31st, 2007, 7:29 pm Thread Starter
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post #5 of 37 (permalink) Old Mar 31st, 2007, 7:43 pm
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C'mon Gunny....we've been down this road before and you know the way I do it, and have for years, whether I built it or bought it. Read it and ride by it....if ya got the oysters.
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm 2t

Pain heals, chicks dig scars, glory.....lasts forever. Shane Falco,"The Replacements" 00'
7.1 and done...06' K1200R-EZ Tuning Exhaust, EVO billet clutch slave, Evo dual race filter kit, Braking 'Wave' rotors and pads, Triton2 tail, Vario levers, Evo peg lowering kit, SW Motech crash bars, R&G sliders full set, Nippy Norman's rear fiberglass hugger, CRG bar end mirrors, ACS shield, RhinoMoto bar end sliders and CRG mounts, Evoluzione o2 modifier, Pazzo "shorty" levers, Cortech Sport Tail Bag and Saddlebags.....
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post #6 of 37 (permalink) Old Mar 31st, 2007, 8:44 pm Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2tall2fall
C'mon Gunny....we've been down this road before and you know the way I do it, and have for years, whether I built it or bought it. Read it and ride by it....if ya got the oysters.
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm 2t

Oysters....did you say Oysters.... we swallow em live right off the boat.....how bout you?
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post #7 of 37 (permalink) Old Apr 1st, 2007, 8:20 am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Racegun
Oysters....did you say Oysters.... we swallow em live right off the boat.....how bout you?
Nope...........only when I have a cold and cough one up...........sniff, cough, gulp. 2t

Pain heals, chicks dig scars, glory.....lasts forever. Shane Falco,"The Replacements" 00'
7.1 and done...06' K1200R-EZ Tuning Exhaust, EVO billet clutch slave, Evo dual race filter kit, Braking 'Wave' rotors and pads, Triton2 tail, Vario levers, Evo peg lowering kit, SW Motech crash bars, R&G sliders full set, Nippy Norman's rear fiberglass hugger, CRG bar end mirrors, ACS shield, RhinoMoto bar end sliders and CRG mounts, Evoluzione o2 modifier, Pazzo "shorty" levers, Cortech Sport Tail Bag and Saddlebags.....
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post #8 of 37 (permalink) Old Apr 1st, 2007, 8:59 am
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Racegun
Oysters....did you say Oysters.... we swallow em live right off the boat.....how bout you?
Without taking them thru at least one heat cycle?
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post #9 of 37 (permalink) Old Apr 1st, 2007, 11:22 am
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Ride it like you stole it. No prisoners, no mercy, change the oil around 600 miles. Use a heavy hand; just don't leave it in one spot for tooo long.

DON'T WAX'M; JUST RID'M!!

04'KGT=RED SLED/ SAY GOOD-BYE/ SOLD
07'KGT=SQUEEEZA-LICOUS
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post #10 of 37 (permalink) Old Apr 1st, 2007, 8:10 pm
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Break-In

Vary the RPM keeping it below the recommended rpm in your manual for the first 600 miles. Several heat cycles won't hurt. Don't do all 600 miles in one wack. After the oil change service you really need to visit the red-line. To barrow from the forum "ride it like you stole it" It needs to be run hard to seat the piston rings. You will have a bike that does not develop full power and uses oil if you don't.
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