How 2 wire autocom to my K12RS -- help needed. - K-Bikes.com - Excellence in Motion
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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old Jun 26th, 2006, 12:14 pm Thread Starter
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How 2 wire autocom to my K12RS -- help needed.

Hey all --

I already have my GPS unit wired from the bike's parking light circuit. Installing an Autocom Pro AVI soon and thought I'd ask for some advice.

I have the Sargent saddle so I store my toolkit in the compartment in the seat pan -- which leaves my tool-kit cubbyhole under the seat open for the Autocom. I thought I would run the rider headset lead up between my legs (between the seat and tank) and the passenger headset lead to come out either out from under the seat near the passenger's left knee -- or maybe get ambitious and mount it into the spare accessory plug hole on the left side of the bike (I had an extra accessory plug installed on my dash, so I'm covered with two already.)

So, being an electrical novice, I have some questions ....

First, is there a particular place in the bike's power circuit I should wire the Autocom into -- for example, if I go straight off the battery wouldn't I run the risk of draining the battery when the bike's not powered on? (yeah, I'm sure the Autocom will turn itself off when not in use, etc etc -- but still, I'd feel better knowing it was getting power only when the bike was on).

What's the best place to "tap into" the system - both for ease of install and also switched power??

Second, what do you think about my location of the headset leads? Any other ideas?

TIA!
Howard

PS. I don't need to add a fuse block or anything, do I????

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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old Jun 28th, 2006, 10:06 am Thread Starter
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Bump. Any input? I know there are some electrical wizzards here

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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old Jun 28th, 2006, 10:17 am
 
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A common practice is to pull power off the tail light circuit, but that's not recommended as it will show as a fault on the moditec diagnostic, and may affect the ABS sensor circuit.

Another practice is to pull power from the headlight or parking light wires, but that's on the opposite end of the bike from where you want to mount the unit.

Tapping into the power plug would be good, but has the same issue of connecting direct to the battery; if the unit fails to turn off, it will run down the battery as both these circuits are always connected. That said, either of these options are excellent choices.

The best option requires more work but solves many of the issues above. I would recommend installing a relay with its coil connected to the light circuit. The power side comes from the battery and to the comm unit. Better yet is to wire the power side to a fuse panel so you can add additional devices.
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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old Jun 28th, 2006, 2:17 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by radiowazee
Bump. Any input? I know there are some electrical wizzards here
I don't know what year your RS is but the early models had an auxiliary equipment connector buried under the back of the fuel tank. It was a 4 or 5 pin connector with one wire green with black trace supplied from an auxiliary equipment fuse. On later models I am not sure if that connection is still there, but a new one is taped up under the headlight assembly, again having one of the wires green with a black trace. Either of these is a fused and switched power source suitable for auxiliary equipment. The autocom draws enough current that it will kill your battery after some period of time if you hooked it directly to your battery.


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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old Jun 28th, 2006, 4:01 pm Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by randy
I don't know what year your RS is but the early models had an auxiliary equipment connector buried under the back of the fuel tank. It was a 4 or 5 pin connector with one wire green with black trace supplied from an auxiliary equipment fuse. On later models I am not sure if that connection is still there, but a new one is taped up under the headlight assembly, again having one of the wires green with a black trace. Either of these is a fused and switched power source suitable for auxiliary equipment. The autocom draws enough current that it will kill your battery after some period of time if you hooked it directly to your battery.

Thanks Randy -- I have a 2003 and will poke around for the suspect Green/Black wire. So, I assume this is the + wire that I would connect to the Autocom red/+ wire -- and I would then run to a ground point from the Autocom to somewhere on the bike frame or ground screw thingy

H

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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old Jun 28th, 2006, 4:27 pm
 
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You can use a relay operated from the tail light circuit to power your Autocom. It won't pull enought to disturb the bulb monitor. I have 4 relays triggered from the rear harness for trailer wiring with no problems.
I don't have the Autocom, but I run a lead from the Mixit for the wife to plug into. It runs along the rear fender and exits at the back where the rack is. I have about 12" of the lead exposed and ziptied to the rack. When not in use the excess just tucks back under the seat and lays on the fender.
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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old Jun 28th, 2006, 4:40 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by radiowazee
Thanks Randy -- I have a 2003 and will poke around for the suspect Green/Black wire. So, I assume this is the + wire that I would connect to the Autocom red/+ wire -- and I would then run to a ground point from the Autocom to somewhere on the bike frame or ground screw thingy

H
If you find the green/black wire you will also find a brown one on the same connector. Solid brown are always ground on a BMW. Grounds to the frame are not always reliable. A relay off of the taillight as described above will work as well. Use that relay to switch power to the Blue Sea fuse panel you mentioned in another post.


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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old Oct 15th, 2006, 6:02 pm
 
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Hi all,

I've just bought a '99 K1200RS and I'm fitting (well, *trying* to fit) my Autocom and Kenwood radio.

In the past I've used the tail light circuit (R100RT, K100LT, R1100RT, ST1100) so that was my first try. This hasn't worked for me this time. Connecting both the Autocom and radio meant that the radio didn't have enough power to transmit, which surprised me a bit. Connecting the Autocom to the tail light and the radio direct to the battery seemed like a good plan but had the strangest effect. (Don't ask, using the brake turned off both the Autocom and the radio, actually being rash enough to transmit and *then* brake made the fuse blow *sigh*)

So I did what I should have done in the first place - logged on and looked for advice.

Randy's comment (below) seems appropriate but I can't find the switched aux. I thought I had, there's a five pin socket under the seat on the left about 1/2 way back but it's not switched. (I managed to blow a 15amp fuse finding that out, but that's another story)

Could someone point me in the direction of the aux socket please? Do I have to take off side panels to find it for instance?

Quote:
Originally Posted by randy
I don't know what year your RS is but the early models had an auxiliary equipment connector buried under the back of the fuel tank. It was a 4 or 5 pin connector with one wire green with black trace supplied from an auxiliary equipment fuse. On later models I am not sure if that connection is still there, but a new one is taped up under the headlight assembly, again having one of the wires green with a black trace. Either of these is a fused and switched power source suitable for auxiliary equipment. The autocom draws enough current that it will kill your battery after some period of time if you hooked it directly to your battery.
Mike
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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old Oct 17th, 2006, 10:38 pm
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This is how I ran it initially. I found that I was getting way too much alternator whine with the Autocom unit mounted there. I moved it behind the rear subframe brace and that took care of the problem. The Centech unit is a good option if you want to add more switched farkles (radar detector, GPS, etc.) You do not want to wire the Autocom directly to the battery because the power saver only works when it is on battery power (per the Autocom USA rep). It will drain your battery otherwise. HTH

Chris
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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old Oct 18th, 2006, 6:48 am
 
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Thanks Chris, that toolkit box is a useful little space I'm finding...

Will be doing some more work on it tonight and I'll report back - I found out what the problem was with the radio and autocom turning off when I braked but it's much too embarassing to recount here.
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