Clutch Cable Hanging By a Thread - - Excellence in Motion
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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old Sep 6th, 2010, 3:21 pm Thread Starter
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Location: Clarkesville, GA, USA
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Clutch Cable Hanging By a Thread

I have a 91 K100RS. The clutch cable has frayed and is hanging by a thread at the actuating lever end. Obviously I have to replace it. My question is, how difficult a job is it and does anyone know of a procedure to follow assuming I decide to do it? Problem is I don't know if it will last long enough to get to a dealer for replacement.
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old Sep 6th, 2010, 11:47 pm
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Location: Moraine, OH, USA
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try beemerboneyard they may be able to shop overnite. On sale $24, buy 2. Not too hard to replace, loosen any cable ties, undo
both ends of the old cable, tape the handlebar end of the new one to the clutch activating end of the old one and gently pull it through. If that doesn't work you may need to remove the tank.

1987 RED K75S
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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old Sep 7th, 2010, 6:24 am
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Location: Clifton Beach, Tasmania, Australia
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I replaced the clutch cable on my RT not that long ago and it was actually harder to remove the old one than fitting the new one.

Quite an easy job in the end and much easier with the tank off as it follows a bit of a tortuous route so take special note of where it goes as if you don't end up with nice smooth curves the clutch may tend to bind.

Phil Mars

1984 K100RT
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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old Sep 10th, 2010, 2:02 pm Thread Starter
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Location: Clarkesville, GA, USA
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I am in the process of removing the old cable, however I had to cut the rubber boot off at the transmission end in order to get the cable back through the access slot in the frame. So, when installing the new cable it looks like I have three options:

A) Route the cable starting from the rear (transmission end) to the front so I don't have to contend with the rubber boot issue
B) Route from the front and hope I can push the boot through the slot from the top
C) Try removing the boot and then reinstalling it after cable is routed (not sure this is even doable)

Anybody have any experience with this? Clymer manual is not specific about which direction to route.
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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old Sep 10th, 2010, 5:47 pm
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Location: Whitstable, Kent, UK
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That's weird Bob - do you mean the concertina rubber bit that covers the exposed cable at the clutch arm end?
Surely that can be squidged small enough for any hole? Or taken off easily and put back on?
If not I'm going for answer A!
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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old Sep 10th, 2010, 6:11 pm
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I did mine last week, tank was off already, easiest way was from the front and stick your hand through and guide it, If you try the other way the large rubber boot gets in the way.
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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old Sep 11th, 2010, 8:52 am
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Put some silicone grease on the bellows and it will slide right in.

Ron Cooper

91 K75RT
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old Sep 11th, 2010, 10:18 am
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Location: Minneapolis, MN, USA
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With grease all over the rubber boot, if you work the cable up and down, while pulling, then one "rib" of the rubber boot will move through with each wiggle of the cable. It took me about 30 seconds to get all the folds of rubber through.
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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old Sep 11th, 2010, 10:50 am
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Gently use some needlenose pliers to pull the first fold or two through and the rest is gravy.
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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old Sep 13th, 2010, 8:53 am Thread Starter
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Thanks for the tips. Successfully changed on Saturday.
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