HELP! my k 75 s broke down and need advise - K-Bikes.com - Excellence in Motion
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post #1 of 18 (permalink) Old Oct 26th, 2010, 1:28 pm Thread Starter
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HELP! my k 75 s broke down and need advise

My 1993 K75s with 15,000 miles on the clock broke down yesterday, i need help as where to begin.
about 120 miles into ride with friends, i went to down shift and there was this awful screeching noise and then the bike would not move. if i gave it any throttle the screeching would start.
the clutch seemed fine all day no issues at all, the splines where lubed about 3500 miles ago when i bought the bike.
the bike sat for 8 years before i purchased it.
So my question is how do i determine what is the problem, is it the final drive and if so i do i tell, is it the clutch? again is there a sequence to perform to try and determine whre to start
any input will be greatly appreciated.
i am very reluctant to bring it to the local dealer , because of the astronomical price service
thanks
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post #2 of 18 (permalink) Old Oct 26th, 2010, 3:01 pm
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Put it on the center stand. Put the trans in neutral. See if you can spin the rear wheel.
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post #3 of 18 (permalink) Old Oct 26th, 2010, 3:13 pm
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Need more data

What EXACTLY are you doing to get the noise?

Clutch in and in gear?

Clutch out and in neutral?

If it's when you attempt to take off in 1st and you get the noise and no movement, my first guess would be the splines in the clutch have rounded over.

If that's the situation (trying to take off in 1st) try putting the bike on the center stand and slowly letting the clutch out while idling. If it's just the splines, you should be able to get the rear wheel turning from the friction still there on them unless they are really totally gone. If you can do that and shift through the gears, I'd say the transmission is ok.

Either way, it sounds like the box has to come off, you'll know as soon as you see the clutch hub if it's that or not. If the splines are ok, you'll know you have to get into the box.

Tony G

'87 K100LT "Her Teutonic Majesty"
'79 XS750 "The Triple"
'72 A65T "The T-Bolt"
'68 B25 "The Blue Bike"
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post #4 of 18 (permalink) Old Oct 26th, 2010, 5:53 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tg4360
If it's when you attempt to take off in 1st and you get the noise and no movement, my first guess would be the splines in the clutch have rounded over.
Those don't screech. They just kind of crunch a little and then whir.

And he said the bike doesn't move so I doubt it's the clutch splines. When the splines go there's nothing to keep the bike from rolling.

DAMHIK.
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post #5 of 18 (permalink) Old Oct 26th, 2010, 6:30 pm Thread Starter
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noise happens when i let the clutch out in any gear.
with the bike on the center stand i let the clutch out slowly and got the same noise
rear wheel did not turn , so i think the clutch splines may be the culprit.
if this is the case is this a do able project , i am relatively competent
if anyone has a link or article on performing this procedure and
any input at all will be greatly appreciated
thanks
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post #6 of 18 (permalink) Old Oct 26th, 2010, 6:33 pm Thread Starter
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when i lubed the splines i only did both ends of the final drive ,i guess i should have done the clutch also , could this be the cause of my problem.
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post #7 of 18 (permalink) Old Oct 26th, 2010, 6:49 pm
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...

I think it's pointless to do any guessing/troubleshooting at this point.

Either problem will require you to remove the FD, swing arm/transmission.

It's not a big deal.. I just got finished doing it for a spline lube.

When you pull the transmission, you'll see pretty quick if it's the clutch/input splines.

Tony G

'87 K100LT "Her Teutonic Majesty"
'79 XS750 "The Triple"
'72 A65T "The T-Bolt"
'68 B25 "The Blue Bike"
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post #8 of 18 (permalink) Old Oct 26th, 2010, 7:53 pm Thread Starter
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i will pull the final drive and transmission then will give full report
be a week or so before i get to it
again any suggestions or comments are welcome
thanks everyone
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post #9 of 18 (permalink) Old Oct 26th, 2010, 8:22 pm
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Lots 'o parts to remove....

I had access to an actual bike lift, tied the front end down and blocked up the engine under the oil pan (as the center stand will have to come off with the transmission).

Removing the FD is trivial, I didn't pull the swing arm till after I pulled the transmission. Were I do do it again, I'd go ahead and pull the swing arm before taking the transmission off thus making drive shaft RR easier. Instead of some strange support under or a hanger for the swing arm before it got removed, I cut a small wedge of wood and braced it up by placing the wedge under the swing arm on the throttle side. Just be careful that you don't strike it as I suspect it'd have enough lever action to crack the transmission case if you did.

Once the battery, starter (clean it while it's out) and alternator are out of the way, it's pretty simple to just unbolt the transmission and carefully pull it back away from the motor.

Once you are there, you'll either see lunched splines or you'll be able to spin the input shaft to see where the problem is.

As a spline lube, it's a lot of removing parts for about five minutes of work. In your case, it'll tell you in a hurry where to go from there.

I'm hoping it's just the clutch plate for you but if it's not, used transmissions are all over ebay so all is not lost.

Tony G

'87 K100LT "Her Teutonic Majesty"
'79 XS750 "The Triple"
'72 A65T "The T-Bolt"
'68 B25 "The Blue Bike"
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post #10 of 18 (permalink) Old Oct 26th, 2010, 8:25 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bke7
when i lubed the splines i only did both ends of the final drive ,i guess i should have done the clutch also , could this be the cause of my problem.
How has it been downshifting? Like from 4>3 and 3>2. If you were getting false neutrals than that's usually caused by dry splines.
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