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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old Dec 4th, 2010, 10:43 pm Thread Starter
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hi all ,now is the time to strip the k100 rs i bought a few months ago and do some maint
can someone tell me re taking of fuel tank do you need to remove the left hand fairing to get to the 2 fuel lines my hands arent small enough to get at the 2 clamps ,and how too get the battery out ,the owners manual is a bit vague when you take the storage box cover off theres a little hole with looks like a spring clip is this the one you need to move with a screwdriver to looosen the catch ? this is all very different to all the old post classic jap bikes i,ve had so advice is appreciated
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old Dec 5th, 2010, 3:17 pm
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how to

Remove the black trim piece to the left of the fuel tank, pull the tank back as far as the fuel lines will allow, and then get a small stubby screw driver or a 1/4" 7mm socket and loosen the clamps. It wouldn't hurt to put a small drop of lube on the hoses above and below the clamps as they are going to be tough to slide up or down off the nozzels. On the little clip, move it to the left and pull the module out. Let it hang on the side of the bike, Don't forget to remove the module pin on the right side of the bike, It holds the module in place. If you intend to remove the plastic, get your digital camera and take lots of close-up pictures of the inside of the fairing. Replace the hardware (screws) as you remove the panels. Refer to the pictures before starting the replacement of the fairing panels. Hope this helps...........
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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old Dec 5th, 2010, 3:58 pm
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how to

...expanding on harper's notes; You need the seat completely removed, once the under seat storage compartment, electronics module and it's plastic housing are removed, the battery needs to stand on it's end to come out vertically between the upper frame tubes.
For about half the cost of an OEM battery, a higher amperage lawn tractor battery can suffice as a replacement. You just need to deal with the terminals being located on the wrong sides, the battery hold down screws being more difficult to align and set it up on top of a 1/4" thick piece of rubber pad.
Almost any servicing requires the lower fairing bits removed +++ and best to check the air filter once you are in that far.
If the bikes performance ever takes a serious dive, suspect the fuel filter , I'll be on my 3rd. fuel filter soon.
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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old Dec 5th, 2010, 6:56 pm
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i've got my battery out a few times by just removing the extending catch on the seat so that it can swing up a lot further. Might save a little time. The process of removing the battery takes a bit of finesse as it only goes in and out at a certain angle.

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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old Dec 5th, 2010, 9:30 pm
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I've got an RT so have a good bit of left side fairing removal to properly remove the tank. Anyway, I only remove enuf so that I can pull the two gas hoses from their lower connection, I don't remove them from the tank itself. You'll get a slight dribble of gasoline which you can catch with a jar or a shop towel. The "clip" you're talking about...is that the one that separates the FI unit from its cord? I never touch that. Just pull the retaining pin on the right side and carefully push/pull the FI unit out. It will still be attached to its cable and can hang to the side. Be careful when it comes out of its holder not to let it touch the positive terminal of the battery That could be expensive. I don't remove the seat to get the battery out. It is a struggle, I use the full-size BMW battery. Sort of have to lift it up a bit and turn it and finally slide it up and out. Gives your arms a good work out.
Steve
1990 K75RT
p.s. I have a couple of baby food jars labeled left and right fairing. Screws and fasteners for each side go in the appropriate jar. As mentioned, taking photos the first couple times you take down the fairing really helps with the re-install. It's a good feeling to put it back together w/ no screws left over in the jar!
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old Dec 6th, 2010, 1:48 am Thread Starter
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thanks for all the advice i got the battery out ,it is a real arm work out and yep it only goes out in one precarious angle for sure ,i was just a bit hessitant pushing that clip to let the module connector free but once i got up enough courage it was easy ,just got to get it back in now
great idea re taking pics and the jars i,ll do that ,nothing worse than having screws left over ,the days of throwing them over you shoulder when there is no one looking are gone
thanks again ,graeme
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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old Dec 6th, 2010, 6:56 am
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old Dec 6th, 2010, 10:54 am
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I have plastic caps that fit over the terminals on the battery.
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old Dec 6th, 2010, 8:55 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sprocket69
I have plastic caps that fit over the terminals on the battery.
Those are great to have on a battery. If you don't have them, you can always put a piece of wood over that positive terminal before pulling out the FI unit. Gracey, well done, removing the FI "by the book" (releasing the clip). And I was incorrect above when saying I unclip both tank hoses at the bottom....the main feed line I unclip at the fuel rail (the bottom), but the return hose (at the front of the tank) I unclip at the tank.
Steve
1990 K75RT
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