another rear drive lube question - K-Bikes.com - Excellence in Motion
 
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old Mar 5th, 2011, 2:34 pm Thread Starter
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Location: Holden, MA, USA
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another rear drive lube question

My bike's turn for a spline lube. Have pulled the rear drive unit and the splines are looking great. They should, because they were re-built by the PO, or should I say his mechanic. In email correspondence w/that mechanic four yrs ago, he mentioned that the splines were in "better than new" condition, because the driveshaft had been lengthened 13mm and a disc fitted around the driveshaft to keep the lubricant from riding up the shaft and away from the splines. Here's my question: anyone know if that disc complicates the removal and re-installation of the driveshaft? (BTW, it wasn't clear to me if the mechanic did this work himself or sent it to Bruno's. In the email he included a link to Bruno's in order to better describe what had been done. So I'm thinking he sent it to Bruno's...I'm waiting to hear from the mechanic again, have contacted him.)
But if anyone knows of any "post-Bruno" complications re: the driveshaft, please let me know. Th;anks,
Steve
1990 K75RT
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old Mar 6th, 2011, 11:15 am
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I had my driveshaft/final drive done by Bruno 15,000 miles ago and the splines look new. The plug in the shaft causes no problem in removing the shaft.

I put vice grips(cushened) on the shaft, tug sharply and the shaft pops off the transmission . When putting the shaft back in, you need to rap it sharply with a hammer.

To keep the bike from rolling off the centerstand, tie the centerstand to the front wheel with a rachet strap.

Ron Cooper

91 K75RT
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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old Mar 6th, 2011, 1:41 pm Thread Starter
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Thanks 75. Also I got an email from the wrench who did the work, told me the same thing. Apparently the collar is inside the driveshaft,, in my mind's eye I pictured it on the outside. Anyway, the swingarm and driveshaft are out. All the splines look great, the U-joint feels good. The bearing for the right pivot pin feels iffy, tho....it doesn't turn as freely as the left. Also the swingarm's boot has a small tear. Well, onwards and upwards...working my way toward being able to move the transmission back enough to lube those splines, too.
Thanks,
Steve
1990 K75RT
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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old Mar 6th, 2011, 2:21 pm
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There's really no need to tie the center stand. I've pulled off a lot of drive shafts (and done spline lubes) and have never come close to knocking it off of the center stand.

A gentler technique for getting the drive shaft back on is too have a block of wood between the end of the drive shaft and the hammer or use a rubber mallet if you've got one,
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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old Mar 6th, 2011, 8:37 pm Thread Starter
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Re: Bruno's

A machine shop that prominently signs and dates its repair work must be doing something right
Steve
'90 K75RT
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old Mar 29th, 2011, 4:00 pm Thread Starter
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sidestand retracting arm

Lubing is done, used the 150mm bolt method to pull the tranny back. Now putting it all back together, have run into a problem re-attaching the clutch return lever assembly. The return arm went on smoothly, I installed the spacer and circlip on the right side to keep everything on there. On the left side, installed the sidestand retracting arm on the pushrod, secured it in place w/a circlip, and attached the sidestand pivot rod to the arm w/that little rectangular nut. Everything looks right and after re-attaching the clutch cable, I can see that the mechanism is working. BUT..I can't figure out how to put the spring on the left end of the pushrod. There doesn't seem to be anything there to keep it in place (sad but true, I didn't take a pic of this step when dis-assembling.) Any ideas as to what I am doing wrong ??
Thanks,
Steve
1990 K75RT
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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old Mar 29th, 2011, 9:13 pm
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Take a look at figure 2 on page 486 of your Clymer manual.
It shows the spring in the correct position.
The "hook" goes onto the arm and the other end of the spring is trapped against the bottom of the transmission.
Correctly assembled, the spring pushes the arm rearward.

I, too, forgot and had to study the picture a bit.
Hope this helps
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old Mar 30th, 2011, 2:38 pm Thread Starter
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Thanks, Tech. The way I laid out the clutch arm parts after disassembling indicated that the spring was the left-most item. But when I removed it, there was no tension on the spring...I had already loosened the sidestand pivot rod. The pics of the spring in my Clymer's are pretty murky, not much detail...but I could tell that hook had to go around the retracting arm. Now that I'm sure there's no other part to hold it on, I can play with it more confidently. BTW, re-installing the center-kickstand unit was a hoot, that thing is heavy! I raised it up toward the bike w/a jack and then bolted it in.
Steve
1990 K75RT
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old Apr 21st, 2011, 5:44 pm Thread Starter
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Done!

Well, it was a long strange trip but the spline lube was officially finished today when I put the last pieces of body work back on the bike. Took it for a 20m ride just to shake out the cobwebs and it's running great. Thanks all who gave me advice.
The whole job was done in an unheated shed, so a bit was done in the fall and the rest this March and April. It still hasn't warmed up around here, it was a cold, cold job. Couple that w/a bout of bronchitis and too much overtime at work, there were days when I wondered if I would ever finish. But I'm glad I did it, learned the ins and outs of the machine pretty intimately. Always impressed by the rock solidness of the K bike, right down to the nuts and bolts. Just one thing leaves me shaking my head--the bike being built as strong as a Panzer tank, why are the clutch rod, the gas tank, and the saddle held on by a handful of puny circlips? Surely a better fastener could have been devised. And yet, they seem to work.
Here's to having a great riding season, everybody.
Steve
1990 K75RT
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