I'm not endorsing this product, just curious about it.
How? The thermostat will still operate at the same temperature and the fan will still kick in at the same temperature.
They do suggest increasing the thermostat temperature. But you do not need to bother on K bikes because the temperature control and design of the cooling system for low speeds is so poor that the thermostat will be fully open most of the time anyway and the fans are poor at moving all the heat from the radiators.
Whatever you do to the coolant mix, if thermal conductivity and cooling capacity is increased in any way by this product, the radiators are too small to shift the increased heat load.
I can see some advantages in not having to replace coolant, but I would need to be convinced that internal corrosion is not present and 5-7 years is a long time to find out if it has worked or not.
Avoiding cavitation, local hotspots and vapour in coolant from over temperature cycling are an issue with water mixes. They increase cap pressures to reduce this. This is particularly true on K-bikes which at 16-18psi is higher than I have seen. In the Evans blurb they talk about the possibility of running without a rad cap, or rather at zero pressure. That too is an advantage.
The generic product from which this comes is supposed to be thick and viscose like treacle so I do not know if their formulation uses some kind of non water solvent to thin it down. With the small size of the water pump i would not think it would cope well with a thick syrupy coolant mix.
They say all water must be removed from the cooling system before putting their stuff in. They even sell a product to use first which is more money. Adding it all up you could be spending up to $180 to do the job their way, although I think if you dropped the hoses, blasted through some compressed air and left the bike, most of the residual water would have dried out. If you ever need to top up on the road or have a system boil up, you could have a problem. You can add water or ethylene glycol but once you do that the advantages are gone.
Stig - I would be interested to know what the viscosity of the product is. Can you describe it on a scale between water and black molasses? You could also do something else if you have the time. If this product is not water based and is not supposed to require a corrosion inhibitor I would expect it to be non-conductive.
You may not have a conductivity meter, but if you have an electronic multimeter, stick the probes in the Evans stuff on the Megohms resistance range. I know a new bottle of brake fluid hardly gets a reading and I would be interested to know what this does. If you do get a very high resistance reading then it should stay the same in the engine for life. If the resistance goes lower then either you left some water in or the Evans stuff is no longer acid/alkali neutral. I think I would want to make sure their product is anti-freeze by sticking a small quantity in a home freezer (circa -20 deg C) and then re-checking the viscosity. A frozen BMW engine block would write off the bike!
I do not see this product as a magic bullet fixall, but it claims to have some interesting properties if it works as claimed.
Never pay again for live sex! | Hot girls doing naughty stuff for free! | Chat for free!