Fuel pump\light connector - K-Bikes.com - Excellence in Motion
 
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post #1 of 9 (permalink) Old Mar 15th, 2013, 4:43 pm Thread Starter
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Fuel pump\light connector



This is the connector from the harness to the fuel pump and the fuel lights. It is loose leading to intermittent but frequent loss of fuel pressure. Fix attempt one was duct tape. Frequency of loss of power to pump decreased but still unacceptable. Fix attempt two is dielectric grease in the female connectors and around the plastic case that holds the female connectors followed by duct tape connecting the harness to the fuel level sensor.

Any other easy solutions? Can I pull the female connectors out of the plastic holder and crimp them?

I dont know if the looseness is due to wear of the females, the males or both. I looked for a used fuel level sensor at BBoneyard with no success. Hate to buy a new one unless I know the males are the problem.

I know folks use dielectric grease but my limited experience is that it is better as a temporary solution because it hardens over time creating its own problem. Anyone with long term experience with dielectric grease have thought to share on its use?
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post #2 of 9 (permalink) Old Mar 16th, 2013, 7:50 am
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What is the bike model? That connector looks different than my K75. Grease won't do any good. You may be able to use a small pick a close up the females. If not, then some folks have spliced trailer light connectors with success.

Ron Cooper

91 K75RT
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post #3 of 9 (permalink) Old Mar 16th, 2013, 11:47 am Thread Starter
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Oooops

Quote:
Originally Posted by 75RT
What is the bike model? That connector looks different than my K75. Grease won't do any good. You may be able to use a small pick a close up the females. If not, then some folks have spliced trailer light connectors with success.
Sorry, keep forgetting to id the mc. This is the 85 K100.

You're right about the grease. Did a 60 mile test run last night. Worked fine for 45 miles but problem returned.

Could you say more about the splice? Do you mean construct a new harness between the main harness and the sensor? Or do you mean cut off the stock connector holding the females and replace with new females in a connector for trailer lights and plug that into the sensor?
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post #4 of 9 (permalink) Old Mar 16th, 2013, 12:17 pm
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After 30 years of unplugging/plugging the pins and female sockets will be badly worn, I would go and get a complete new 4 pin male and female connector and redo the lot. Id get a later Tyco type those early bullet style plugs are notoriously unreliable.

Tim
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2011 K1300GT
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post #5 of 9 (permalink) Old Mar 16th, 2013, 3:54 pm
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I just looked at a parts diagram for a 85 K100 and it shows the fuel pump connector the same as on my K75. On the right side under the side cover. Your picture looks like it is on the left side. Are you sure you have the right connector?

Ron Cooper

91 K75RT
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post #6 of 9 (permalink) Old Mar 16th, 2013, 6:52 pm Thread Starter
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Progress

Quote:
Originally Posted by 75RT
I just looked at a parts diagram for a 85 K100 and it shows the fuel pump connector the same as on my K75. On the right side under the side cover. Your picture looks like it is on the left side. Are you sure you have the right connector?
On my mc, the connector is on the left side of the tank towards the front.


I now have a replacement connector with unused female bullets. The early K100s used the same 4-pin connector for the alarm. That connector is in the relay box.



(The odd black line runs to a dashboard switch which turns on the fan. I wired that a few weeks ago. I now can turn on the fan whenever I want. I use it mostly to test the fan. In the past, I have had fans replaced because of freezing due to lack of use and corrosion. Now, I turn the fan on occasionally to keep that from happening. It is also great for stop-and-go and low speed situations.)


I removed some of the relays and the fuse holder to gain access. I cut out the connector capping each lead with an orange twist cap and taping the cap to the lead.



The original plan was to replace the old connector with this connector. I used a dremel to
cut off the old connector and expose the females. The hope was to remove the females from the new connector and put the old females in it. Unfortunately, I wasnt able to find a tool that would allow me to depress the catch on the females in the new connector and remove them.

The plan now is to cut off the old females bullets, strip the ends of the wires, strip the ends of the wires on the new connector and solder the wires together. I tested the unused connector for fit and it makes a tight connection with the fuel level sensor.

Now the issue is one of soldering skills.
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post #7 of 9 (permalink) Old Mar 16th, 2013, 8:13 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 75RT
I just looked at a parts diagram for a 85 K100 and it shows the fuel pump connector the same as on my K75. On the right side under the side cover. Your picture looks like it is on the left side. Are you sure you have the right connector?
Look up part 61311459047. Your K75 doesn't have one but an 85 K100 does.

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/partxref.do?part=61311459047
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post #8 of 9 (permalink) Old Mar 17th, 2013, 4:49 pm
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I took a dental pick and VERY carefully used it to close the female parts of the connector slightly to tighten the connection. 320K+ miles and hundreds(?) of on/off with the original connector. Easier than replacing it.

Frank

'17 R1200RS, 2 yrs. 27,000 mi.
'16 R1200RS, 18 mo. 28,000 mi. (gone)
'03 R1100S Boxer Cup Replika 6/200
'85 K100/1100RS, 34 yrs. 326,000 mi.
'05 R1200ST, 8 yrs. 57,400 mi.-3rd deer killed it.
'11 R1200RT, 2 yrs. 30,000 mi. (gone)
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post #9 of 9 (permalink) Old Mar 17th, 2013, 8:14 pm Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by duckbubbles
I took a dental pick and VERY carefully used it to close the female parts of the connector slightly to tighten the connection. 320K+ miles and hundreds(?) of on/off with the original connector. Easier than replacing it.

Frank
I need to invest in a dental pick.

I soldered the leads from the unused connector onto the leads from the harness. Initial 3 mile test was successful. Plan to do a longer run tomorrow.
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