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post #1 of 10 (permalink) Old Sep 10th, 2013, 9:10 pm Thread Starter
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My K-bike won't move

Ok here we go. I have purchased a 90 BMW K75S with 27k on it. My first one, but it has an issue. It will not move. Here is what I can hear and know without tearing the rear end out. Up towards the engine I hear a metal whine near the transmission. Also the clutch handle would pull back originally, but now it will not. I do know the clutch on the bike was replaced a year ago. I think that I got a realy great deal on the bike as long as it is the drive system and not the trany. Not sure as I will tear into it this weekend and hope that I do not get in over my head. The engine runs and sounds great. Any thoughts or suggestions? Also where do you recommend I go for parts and while I am in there what should be replaced. Thanks
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post #2 of 10 (permalink) Old Sep 10th, 2013, 9:29 pm
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Stripped splines either the clutch disk or transmission input shaft. Or both.

Benelli 50cc at 14
Yamaha RD 200 at 16
Yamaha RD 350 at 17
Honda CB 750 F at 18
Honda V45 Sabre at 24
BMW K100RS at 27
BMW R100GS at 34
BMW K1200RS at 53
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post #3 of 10 (permalink) Old Sep 10th, 2013, 10:33 pm
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My K100 clutch went this year. It was the diaphragm spring in my case. Motor ran fine, but crunching metal noise when put into gear. Did not have the clutch handle symptom. Replaced the spring and the clutch spline disk (splines were badly worn). Bike is fine now.
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post #4 of 10 (permalink) Old Sep 11th, 2013, 1:59 pm
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There are three things you can do to make this job easier. Remove the final drive from the shaft first. Buy the clutch plate centering tool off ebay for $30. And remove one of the transmission bolts. Go to a hardware strore. Buy four bolts that are a few inches longer. Take a hacksaw and remove the heads. Take a dremel and grind screwdriver slots. Replace at least two of the transmission bolts with the longer headless bolts. These will allow you to slide the gearbox/shaft off and on without bending the clutch rod.
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post #5 of 10 (permalink) Old Sep 11th, 2013, 6:29 pm Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 97tiger885
There are three things you can do to make this job easier. Remove the final drive from the shaft first. Buy the clutch plate centering tool off ebay for $30. And remove one of the transmission bolts. Go to a hardware strore. Buy four bolts that are a few inches longer. Take a hacksaw and remove the heads. Take a dremel and grind screwdriver slots. Replace at least two of the transmission bolts with the longer headless bolts. These will allow you to slide the gearbox/shaft off and on without bending the clutch rod.
Thanks for the advice and that indeed I will do. I guess while I am in there might as well replace all the seals any recommended part numbers I should buy prior to cracking it open.
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post #6 of 10 (permalink) Old Sep 11th, 2013, 9:41 pm
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Was the bike on the sidestand when you tried the clutch? There is an automatic sidestand retraction mechanism linked to the clutch cable and it effectively freezes the lever if the bike is leaning on the sidestand. Pop it up on the centerstand and see if the clutch operates.

1987 RED K75S
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post #7 of 10 (permalink) Old Sep 16th, 2013, 5:55 pm Thread Starter
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Ok Pulled the K75 apart

OK I pulled the rear drive and tranny off and it revealed that the clutch splines were totally stripped. The transmission spline looks ok with some wear, but I think still serviceable. Any thoughts what caused this. If I have to change the transmission input shaft any recommendations. I hope that is the case as I have no idea how to change the tranny spline input shaft.
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post #8 of 10 (permalink) Old Sep 16th, 2013, 5:56 pm Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by S3OIC
Thanks for the advice and that indeed I will do. I guess while I am in there might as well replace all the seals any recommended part numbers I should buy prior to cracking it open.

Thanks for the advice used it this weekend and it was great.!
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post #9 of 10 (permalink) Old Sep 17th, 2013, 10:22 am
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The splines should be lubed regularily to prevent that. Don't remember the milleage recommendation but for me was every couple years. The GS could suffer from the same fate so I kept on top of that.

Serviceable the transmission splines? That I don't know unless you post pics. If they look pointy at the top probably "Not serviceable" and the clutch will judder. You can compare with the rear of the splines close to the transmission where the disk doesn't contact, they should be nice and flat there.

They can be rebuilt, look up Bruno in Canada or call him, he is pretty good and should be able to give you a quote.

http://www.brunos.us/

Removing the shaft to replace it....big job if you change parts. Them transmissions have to me shimmed and that takes a lot of measuring and maybe even special tools.I don't think that DIY would be cost effective there. Look in the parts fiche if just to be scared at the cost of BMW transmission parts.

Benelli 50cc at 14
Yamaha RD 200 at 16
Yamaha RD 350 at 17
Honda CB 750 F at 18
Honda V45 Sabre at 24
BMW K100RS at 27
BMW R100GS at 34
BMW K1200RS at 53
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post #10 of 10 (permalink) Old Sep 18th, 2013, 7:42 am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by S3OIC
OK I pulled the rear drive and tranny off and it revealed that the clutch splines were totally stripped. The transmission spline looks ok with some wear, but I think still serviceable. Any thoughts what caused this. If I have to change the transmission input shaft any recommendations. I hope that is the case as I have no idea how to change the tranny spline input shaft.
The maintenance schedule (thanks FlyingDuck) recommends spline lube annually for models before 1990, 40k for those later. I pulled my transmission and did a spline lube last month with great improvement in shifting. http://www.k-bikes.com/forums/showthread.php?t=26762

Nick
1993 K75S
1991 R100RT
1982 Yamaha XJ650RJ Seca
1978 R100S
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