Just Replaced Clutch Cable - K-Bikes.com - Excellence in Motion
 
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post #1 of 5 (permalink) Old Nov 15th, 2013, 3:49 pm Thread Starter
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Just Replaced Clutch Cable

Hey all, hopefully a simple question here. 93 k75 50k, Just replaced clutch cable as last one snapped at the lever. I ziptied end to end and pulled through, as the manual said to take care routing the cable identically.
Upon fastening everything I noticed the cable doesn't seem quite long enough, no free play in clutch, slack when handlebars are pointed right, raises idle speed when handlebars point forward or to the left.

I did check to see if it was just throttle cables getting pinched, re-layed cable around the throttle cables, I've tried laying it a few different orientations around the head into the lever, and still the same issue.

Is there some sort of throttle component that may be getting pinched around the airbox area? or elsewhere in there where I can't reach?

Panhandling on Brooklyn Bridge for a spare clutch plate.
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post #2 of 5 (permalink) Old Nov 15th, 2013, 6:09 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gullymonster
Hey all, hopefully a simple question here. 93 k75 50k, Just replaced clutch cable as last one snapped at the lever. I ziptied end to end and pulled through, as the manual said to take care routing the cable identically.
Upon fastening everything I noticed the cable doesn't seem quite long enough, no free play in clutch, slack when handlebars are pointed right, raises idle speed when handlebars point forward or to the left.

I did check to see if it was just throttle cables getting pinched, re-layed cable around the throttle cables, I've tried laying it a few different orientations around the head into the lever, and still the same issue.

Is there some sort of throttle component that may be getting pinched around the airbox area? or elsewhere in there where I can't reach?
I've never replaced one myself but did you adjust it properly? Chris Harris has an informative video on the procedure - warning: his language is strong but information is good BMW K Clutch Adjustment Procedure

Nick
1993 K75S
1991 R100RT
1982 Yamaha XJ650RJ Seca
1978 R100S
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post #3 of 5 (permalink) Old Nov 16th, 2013, 10:05 pm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gullymonster
Hey all, hopefully a simple question here. 93 k75 50k, Just replaced clutch cable as last one snapped at the lever. I ziptied end to end and pulled through, as the manual said to take care routing the cable identically.
Upon fastening everything I noticed the cable doesn't seem quite long enough, no free play in clutch, slack when handlebars are pointed right, raises idle speed when handlebars point forward or to the left.

I did check to see if it was just throttle cables getting pinched, re-layed cable around the throttle cables, I've tried laying it a few different orientations around the head into the lever, and still the same issue.

Is there some sort of throttle component that may be getting pinched around the airbox area? or elsewhere in there where I can't reach?
First, make sure you have the correct cable by comparing the new and the old. There are two cables, one for the K75 with standard bars and one for the K75S with the low bars.

If you have the right length, it probably is an adjustment issue. The procedure is explained in the Clymer manual in chapter three on page 51 under the heading "clutch adjustment." I have probably done 5 cable replacements between the K75 and the K100RS. I have the same problem. And every time it takes an hour to figure out the adjustment and the routing. Then I think the next time will be easy. Then I forget how to do it by the next time.




The breaking at the lever is common. This happens because the cylinder in the handle sticks. The cylinder doesnt spin as you pull the lever, the metal cables get a slight kink and the cables bend each time you pull the lever. Over time this repeated bending causes the cable strands to break. The life of the cable can be extended by occasionally greasing the metal cylinder.

I also carry a spare cable. I have had two break on the road. The first time in AL. No spare. Spent two days in a hotel waiting for a cable from Bobs. The second time at the CRV rally. I had a spare there. Now, I dont leave home without one.

Last edited by 97tiger885; Nov 16th, 2013 at 10:20 pm.
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post #4 of 5 (permalink) Old Nov 22nd, 2013, 10:56 pm
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I go one better, since I am replacing the cable, I run a second one next to the working one. I zip tie it at the front ( handle bar) and run it through the transmission hole in the back, so it is ready if needed. Sure makes road side repairs quicker and easier. And when doing my winter repair work, it is very easy to set it up.

But then I am a Scout leader, so I am always prepared! LOL

2008 FLHT
2008 R1200RT
1985 K100 RT
1979 XS 650 Street tracker
Ridden everything,owned lots
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post #5 of 5 (permalink) Old Nov 24th, 2013, 8:44 am
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 97tiger885
The breaking at the lever is common. This happens because the cylinder in the handle sticks. The cylinder doesnt spin as you pull the lever, the metal cables get a slight kink and the cables bend each time you pull the lever. Over time this repeated bending causes the cable strands to break. The life of the cable can be extended by occasionally greasing the metal cylinder.

I also carry a spare cable. I have had two break on the road. The first time in AL. No spare. Spent two days in a hotel waiting for a cable from Bobs. The second time at the CRV rally. I had a spare there. Now, I dont leave home without one.
I bought my K75S from a guy with no mechanical ability who owned it less than a year. He had the cable break, did not know what to do and had it towed to a MC shop.

This info and stories from others on the forum has me cleaning and lubing the cable/lever connection annually with a spare in the tail cone for peace of mind.

Nick
1993 K75S
1991 R100RT
1982 Yamaha XJ650RJ Seca
1978 R100S
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