binding in steering - '86 k75 - - Excellence in Motion
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post #1 of 3 (permalink) Old Nov 13th, 2014, 6:31 pm Thread Starter
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binding in steering - '86 k75

Just turned cold here and getting ready to put it away for winter. But I noticed two things.
1) I just noticed that the steering (kind of a heavy front end on this bike eh? not what i would call a 'light' steerer), when i am turning, I am finding the steering is binding. It isn't a cable or something i can see - i am going to have to dismantle the front - what would you call it. -IS THIS SOMETHING I CAN DO IN MY DRIVEWAY? CAN I SIMPLY DISMANTLE AND RE_MANTLE WITH A BIT OF GREASE OR DO I NEED TO REPLACE PARTS?

and 2} I think the alternator ain't keeping the battery all that juiced up. Can I take my battery in for a checkup? Anything else I can do to make the bike easier to start? i notice it chugs a few times before catching.

Thanks - I am in toronto
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post #2 of 3 (permalink) Old Nov 13th, 2014, 11:09 pm
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#2- How old is the battery? You may need to replace it if it won't hold a charge.
#1- K75's have a damper built into the steering stem as far as I know. Maybe the temps are affecting it.


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post #3 of 3 (permalink) Old Apr 8th, 2015, 3:17 pm
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Batteries don't like to be cold, they loose "oomph" very quickly. When a battery "gets old" it develops a condition called "surface charge". There is adequate amperage to start the bike, but only once. If you have a reasonably well tuned bike, you can go for a long time with this and not know it, because the bike starts every time. Then one day it won't, and the second and third attempts very quickly result in an obviously dead battery. Periodic load testing is one way around this, particularly if a battery is getting on in years. The other way is to replace the battery at a set interval but as batteries and conditions vary, this may not be the best economy, although you won't get stranded if you regularly replace the battery within an adequate time.

As for the stiffness in the forks, look up/read up the fork rebuild procedure and decide, based on your tools, mechanical aptitude and time availability, whether you want to go in there. My first fork rebuild took most of a day but I had the time, space and tools and I was in no rush. I have read that the fork damper fluid is NLA. My expectation is that you will be looking at cleaning and regreasing the bearings. When they are clean, verify that he fork turns smoothly with no "bumpy" areas in the rotation, suggesting galling in the races, for which bearing replacement is called for.
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