K75S oil change questions - K-Bikes.com - Excellence in Motion
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
post #1 of 13 (permalink) Old Dec 6th, 2014, 12:45 am Thread Starter
Noob
 
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Delray Beach, FL, USA
Posts: 7
K75S oil change questions

I have a 1992 K75S and refuse to pay the dealer $140 for an oil change, so I'm looking for a little help here.
If anyone knows of a video (including the removal of the bellypan/spoiler to access the filter) showing a step-by-step procedure, please send me the link. I've seen 1 or 2 on YouTube videos but not in the detail I'd like.

Also, is it ok to use Rotella T oil?. I've seen other forums highly suggest it but I'm concerned about it stating it is for deisel and someone thought the additives in it may be harmful to the catalytic converter.

Thanks very much!
Dan ([email protected])

Last edited by bromberg; Dec 6th, 2014 at 12:55 am.
bromberg is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #2 of 13 (permalink) Old Dec 6th, 2014, 12:58 am Thread Starter
Noob
 
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Delray Beach, FL, USA
Posts: 7
Question K75S oil change questions

I have a 1992 K75S and refuse to pay the dealer $140 for an oil change, so I'm looking for a little help here.
If anyone knows of a video (including the removal of the bellypan/spoiler to access the filter) showing a step-by-step procedure, please send me the link. I've seen 1 or 2 on YouTube videos but not in the detail I'd like.

Also, is it ok to use Rotella T oil?. I've seen other forums highly suggest it but I'm concerned about it stating it is for deisel and someone thought the additives in it may be harmful to the catalytic converter.

Thanks very much!
Dan ([email protected])
bromberg is offline  
post #3 of 13 (permalink) Old Dec 6th, 2014, 3:31 pm
Senior Member
 
stokester's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Yorktown, VA, USA
Posts: 163
Quote:
Originally Posted by bromberg
I have a 1992 K75S and refuse to pay the dealer $140 for an oil change, so I'm looking for a little help here.
If anyone knows of a video (including the removal of the bellypan/spoiler to access the filter) showing a step-by-step procedure, please send me the link. I've seen 1 or 2 on YouTube videos but not in the detail I'd like.

Also, is it ok to use Rotella T oil?. I've seen other forums highly suggest it but I'm concerned about it stating it is for deisel and someone thought the additives in it may be harmful to the catalytic converter.

Thanks very much!
Dan ([email protected])
Nothing difficult here, good on you to take it on yourself.

The belly pan is easily removed by taking out the two hex-head bolts in the bottom front in the center of the rubber mounts. Once these are removed work it forward and down to slide the rubber mounts out and the rear and front tab away. This will remove the pan.

You will then see the bottom of the engine where there is an oil filter access plate held on by three hex-head screws. Some will just loosen these to drain the oil rather than removing the drain plug, I do both. This is where you need the proper filter and a removal tool that will fit into the car and on the filter and a new crush washer if you removed the drain plug. I got mine along with Bosch filters and crush washers from Beemer Boneyard Beemer Boneyard Oil Change Kit.

As far as oil is concerned and not wanting a dreaded oil discussion, I use Mobile 1 as recommended by Bob Fleischer on his web site BMW Oils . He has extensive information on Airheads as well as classic K-bikes. Others may have different suggestions.

Don't overfill or over tighten the hex bolts and ensure the O-ring on the access cover is good. Reinstalling the pan can take some wiggling and pushing but be patient.

Check the oil level in the window and keep riding!

Nick
1993 K75S
1991 R100RT
1982 Yamaha XJ650RJ Seca
1978 R100S
stokester is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
post #4 of 13 (permalink) Old Dec 6th, 2014, 11:07 pm Thread Starter
Noob
 
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Delray Beach, FL, USA
Posts: 7
reply to stokester

Thanks for the encouragement since I often get stuck in the middle of a project with that sinking feeling when the unexpected happens (or finish a project puzzled by an extra screw lying around :-).

Anyhow, assuming I can get the belly pan off and all goes well, when I put it back on will I hear a definitive snap-into-place to assure that all is aligned before I put back on the 2 hex-head bolts?

Also, by using Mobil 1 synthetic oil, how long can I go before my next oil/filter change? Living here in south FL I don't have dusty conditions and (since the roads are so boring) at best put on only a few thousand miles per year.

Thanks again!
Danny
bromberg is offline  
post #5 of 13 (permalink) Old Dec 7th, 2014, 8:21 am
Senior Member
 
stokester's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Yorktown, VA, USA
Posts: 163
Quote:
Originally Posted by bromberg
Thanks for the encouragement since I often get stuck in the middle of a project with that sinking feeling when the unexpected happens (or finish a project puzzled by an extra screw lying around :-).

Anyhow, assuming I can get the belly pan off and all goes well, when I put it back on will I hear a definitive snap-into-place to assure that all is aligned before I put back on the 2 hex-head bolts?

Also, by using Mobil 1 synthetic oil, how long can I go before my next oil/filter change? Living here in south FL I don't have dusty conditions and (since the roads are so boring) at best put on only a few thousand miles per year.

Thanks again!
Danny
You'll know the belly pan is on properly when the rear tab is in the slot, the upper tab is in the slot, the rubber bottom mounts have slid into the slots and the holes line up for the hex bolts. It sounds complex but it is not. Just take your time and look closely at the items I just mentioned before you take it off and when it is removed to get a good idea how it all goes back together.

How often to change oil? That's another topic that gets attention with many varied opinions. It depends on a lot of things. I ride throughout the year putting about 10K miles on the K75 changing oil/filter about every 5K. If you ride and put your bike up for a couple of months during cooler weather then you may want to change it before putting it up regardless of the miles. Oil and filters are cheap compared to repairs.

If you have not looked through the forum for common maintenance/repairs for the classic K-bikes I recommend you do so. There is the spline lube, clutch cable (carry a spare and know how to replace it) and water pump seal among a few others things to watch. Anton Largiader has an easy procedure for the spline lube on his site -> K Spline Lube. These are more complex than an oil change but necessary to keep your brick the reliable, smooth-running machine it is.

I've done all of these and followed the advice of carrying a spare clutch cable for years. This summer after returning from a 4000 mile trip to the midwest for the MOA Rally and a family visit it broke not but 15 miles from the house. With my spare cable I was back on the road in less than 30 minutes.

Nick
1993 K75S
1991 R100RT
1982 Yamaha XJ650RJ Seca
1978 R100S
stokester is offline  
post #6 of 13 (permalink) Old Dec 8th, 2014, 12:38 pm Thread Starter
Noob
 
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Delray Beach, FL, USA
Posts: 7
clutch question

I received the following reply from Shell Oil regarding using their Rotella oil:

"Yes, Rotella T 15W-40 and Rotella T6 5W-40 both have been tested and pass JASO MA/MA2; and API SM for gasoline engines. It is suitable for wet-clutch applications and gasoline engines that do not have catalytic convertors."

Can someone tell me if my K75S has a wet-clutch or catalytic converter?

I'll probably use Mobil 1 synthetic [as was suggested at http://bmwmotorcycletech.info] but just looking to keep my options open.

Thanks,
Dan
bromberg is offline  
post #7 of 13 (permalink) Old Dec 10th, 2014, 4:05 pm
Senior Member
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Belton, Tx, USA
Posts: 140
Can someone tell me if my K75S has a wet-clutch or catalytic converter?[/B]



Thanks,
Dan[/QUOTE]

It has neither. The 5W oil is too thin for your bike. I use 20w50 year round in TX.

Ron Cooper

91 K75RT
75RT is offline  
post #8 of 13 (permalink) Old Dec 10th, 2014, 4:50 pm
Enthusiast
 
MikeK's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: , ,
Posts: 377
your k75 has a dry clutch, and has a catalytic converter in the exhaust system

Mike Kelly

Triple M Engineering

K12RS

Stanley, NC
MikeK is offline  
post #9 of 13 (permalink) Old Dec 11th, 2014, 12:40 am Thread Starter
Noob
 
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Delray Beach, FL, USA
Posts: 7
Quote:
Originally Posted by stokester
You'll know the belly pan is on properly when the rear tab is in the slot, the upper tab is in the slot, the rubber bottom mounts have slid into the slots and the holes line up for the hex bolts. It sounds complex but it is not. Just take your time and look closely at the items I just mentioned before you take it off and when it is removed to get a good idea how it all goes back together.

How often to change oil? That's another topic that gets attention with many varied opinions. It depends on a lot of things. I ride throughout the year putting about 10K miles on the K75 changing oil/filter about every 5K. If you ride and put your bike up for a couple of months during cooler weather then you may want to change it before putting it up regardless of the miles. Oil and filters are cheap compared to repairs.

If you have not looked through the forum for common maintenance/repairs for the classic K-bikes I recommend you do so. There is the spline lube, clutch cable (carry a spare and know how to replace it) and water pump seal among a few others things to watch. Anton Largiader has an easy procedure for the spline lube on his site -> K Spline Lube. These are more complex than an oil change but necessary to keep your brick the reliable, smooth-running machine it is.

I've done all of these and followed the advice of carrying a spare clutch cable for years. This summer after returning from a 4000 mile trip to the midwest for the MOA Rally and a family visit it broke not but 15 miles from the house. With my spare cable I was back on the road in less than 30 minutes.
I wish I knew as much as you do about K75 repair - don't have the confidence yet. I'm working my way up to my 1st oil change!
bromberg is offline  
post #10 of 13 (permalink) Old Dec 11th, 2014, 12:41 am Thread Starter
Noob
 
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Delray Beach, FL, USA
Posts: 7
Thanks for the info.
bromberg is offline  
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the K-Bikes.com - Excellence in Motion forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in










Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Linear Mode



Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Change Your BMWMOA Password Now! XMagnaRider Bike Talk 10 Mar 11th, 2012 8:22 am
Final drive fluid change questions DavidS K12/1300GT (Next Gen) 8 Oct 13th, 2010 2:45 pm
extending final drive oil change? MN.GT K12/1300GT (Next Gen) 23 Aug 10th, 2010 2:32 pm
Mirror questions - K75s kychris93 Other K-Bikes Discussion 0 May 28th, 2009 11:17 pm
Two quick questions on oil change MichaelA K12/1300GT (Next Gen) 6 Apr 21st, 2009 10:14 pm

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome