Are BMW tools stated necessary - - Excellence in Motion
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post #1 of 5 (permalink) Old Jun 29th, 2007, 7:00 am Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2007
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Are BMW tools stated necessary

Been reading about how to replace clutch slave unit and manuals state certain BMW tools are needed for removing/replacing bolts on rear swing arm etc. In the opinion of this forum's users who have done "self" work, is this true or can a shade tree like me do this job with the tools I have on hand? Need to do job myself for 2 reasons. Dealership won't replace only slave unit. They state they also replace clutch for a total repair bill of $1600+. My clutch is NOT slipping and only has 50,000 easy miles. The slave has just recently begun leaking and I beleive that I can fix it and get many more miles for a lit less money.
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post #2 of 5 (permalink) Old Jun 29th, 2007, 12:04 pm
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My KRS is in bits at the mo. -everything from the rear wheel is out of the frame and apart. You haven't said what year your bike is. It makes a difference and getting things apart especially when Loctited could be an asymptotic function of time elapsed since the bike was built!

Start with a Clymer manual. You will see the service tools called up, some are Clymers own workarounds. Start with nothing then as the job goes forward you will be appreciating why the tools are needed. You can still be a bit creative using what you have a around the workshop, but be prepared to make or get something made when you hit the brick wall.

I don't have much of a workshop - certainly not the Clippon tools and a whole range of special tools stuck on a board like at the dealer. However, I get by with the following:

41/2" angle grinder with standard and 1mm cut off wheels. 91/2" grinder for chopping up larger steel section.
160 Amp home arc welder + rods up to 3-4mm
Pillar drill
Plenty of 10,12 and 16mm screwed rod with nuts.
Pieces of steel angle, 1/8 sheet steel, steel box and tube section.
Decent 6-8 inch bench vise.
Jigsaw with metal cutting blades.
Chain hoist and lifting table.
Propane torch and heat gun.
Best Chinese investment has been a small scissor transmission jack off Ebay ($70)
Some pullers including a blind bearing puller - but non work, so I made alternatives.

This is what's hard about getting to the clutch:
The frame needs supporting overhead. There are 2 engine, mounts at the front and a pair of frame mounts at the rear. The idea is to allow the engine to tilt downwards to get access and remove stuff.
Swingarm bearings - Bearing caps Loctited in - makes no odds even with the tools, a real PITA. and you risk damaging the swingarm threads.
Some have left the rear drive and swingarm assembled. I felt that was a lot of weight to leave connected.
You definitely need a clutch holding tool to remove and tighten it up. The new seal needs something to protect it from the shaft splines when fitting and a very large socket/piece of tube.
You might get away without the clutch centering tool, by using the tranni to centre the new clutch whilst keeping the cover plate loose. The downside is the tranni must be well supported and able to be positioned within a mm or so. (e.g on its own jack).
Simple tasks like pulling the driveshaft splines apart become tedious when you don't have that fancy looking side hammer puller. A length of 8mm rod and two hammers will do the trick!
The ABS unit and battery case has to come out - still that's only new fluid and a bleeding job!

They use some odd size bolt and hex keys (7mm or 6.5mm?) which I had to buy a socket for, also some larger hex keys, There's the dreaded swing arm bearing remover torque setter upperer. But I made one with a deep socket welded to a length of steel bar and a 3/8 drive key down the inside.

With this amount of effort and uncertainty you need to replace the slave, probably the friction plate, the rear and transmission shaft seals, and the O ring in the clutch back plate. Whilst in there, check the starter and alternator brushes. You don't want to come back again soon!

If you have plenty of time and want a challenge then go for it. I'm not trying to put you off, but if you expect the bike back on the road on 3 or 4 days without any self inflicted damage - let a good dealer do it. If you decide to do it yourself aided by a Clymer manual, you will learn a lot and and the job will be easier next time!

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